We finally have the front end on and are getting ready to prime the whole car.
after we block it we are planning on sealing it. My thinking is to disassembling the car after we have blocked it and sealing the pieces apart so I can get to areas like the door jambs and areas that are normally hidden. does this sound right or is there a better(easier )way?
My first attempt at prepping for paint
Here's the car so far.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa130/tri4color/IMG_0004-3.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa130/tri4color/IMG_0001-1.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa130/tri4color/IMG_0003-3.jpg


Thanks

Heres a start, I'm searching stuff out.




http://www.chevelles.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif Re: Setting door and fender gaps
Man you guy's are starting to depress me now. Tossing in a fully dressed engine and trans is not a big deal and I had a suspicion I was spose ta do that. But now I have to recondition all my window gear and reinstall it before my trial fit. I kinda wanted to wait till after paint to install that gear. The more I think of it, I guess it makes more sense to do it first, in more ways than one. I guess it also means that I need to buy my new glass before I can gap the doors, aw man.:confused:




http://www.chevelles.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif Re: Setting door and fender gaps


I am in the process of putting my car back together after a long process of fitting everything and putting 1/4's on it along with a replacement LH door & a RH door that never fit well.


Here's what I did - I lined up the doors & fenders so that I was happy with the gaps. I lined up the tops of the doors & the upper body line and whatever that gap was at the rear at the rocker panel I measured it with calipers and shot for that at the front of the rocker.


The door jamb area looked really nice using this method and then I dialed in the fenders and hood. This whole process took about a week off & on. I made notes where & what shims are on the front fenders.


Here's where you need to pay attention. I drilled 1/8" holes through the hinges into the hood and also into the fender where the hood mounts. I also drilled two holes in each mounting point at the door hinges. There are two 1/8" holes at each point. This aligns the door hinge in 2 locations so it can't twist. I also did this on my trunk hinges. On some of the door hinges the holes were on an angle because it was kind of tight with all the pins, rollers and everything in the way but is does not matter as long as you get the hole through the hinge and the mounting point.


I can not tell you how much time this saved but I can tell you how long it took to hang the doors & deck lid. Yesterday I had a friend stop over after work to help as the stuff is akward and the decklid took 5 minutes to put on, Closed it up & it was EXACTLY where I had previously aligned it. I already had the hinges mounted to the doors using the alignment pins (1/8" dowels) and it took all of 15 minutes for both doors to be hung & aligned. No paint chips, No cussing, No moving bolts a fraction of an inch to get something to move. Just hold it up, Wiggle the dowels in & tighten the bolts.


I did this all in the fitting stage before paint so if you scratched anything no big deal. I have seen this on TV but I NEVER thought it would work as good as it did. You still need to go through the motions to get everything lined up but it's so nice to have hinges that are not all scuffed up from moving bolts and no chipped edges from dropping the door on the jamb when you loosened that bolt too much.


Try it, You will like it. :thumbsup:



Rob

Heres some good stuff I found on the camaro forum.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=112203&highlight=paint+panels+car

This is the only way i know how to get this up, click on what i have highlighted, then when the post comes up, go down four posts to 1969ss, and you will see another highlighted post, click on that, its pretty good.

Rob

Anyway, Camaros have a subframe, but it seems they have the deal down pretty good.

Rob