my 65 elky, runs hot on the hiway but cools down in the city,stock 350 hi flow 180 t/s i'm using a taraus fan my mechanic and also some feed back i've gotten here says the fan is blocking the flow on the hiway yet letting it pull through in town or could it be the water pump? anyone else had this same problem using the ford fan?:confused: I just want to be able to use my A/C on the hiway.

I've used a Taurus fan on several cars and never had any highway heating problems.

yea, this sounds crazy but i can use my a/c in town on a hot day 195 degrees get on the hiway and i turned off the a/c at 220 go figure!

Don't drive on the highway.
Only kiddin.
Good luck.
I ran Taurus fan for years. Tons of cfm.

No wonder,Yours is on A trailer LOL!:beers:

maybe a timing issue?....might be worth a try. couldn't be an easier check, at least.
timing seems to constantly rear its ugly head when talk turns to cooling problems here. and i can't immediately imagine what else would cause the symptoms you describe. do your fans shut off at speed? maybe rig a couple temporary fresh air ducts out of dryer vent hose or something similar and see if you aren't getting a good blast for some reason. though i can't see a fan/pair of fans blocking that much flow on the highway.

double checking the timing seems even easier now, for some reason.

did you try revving it at highway rpm while sitting still?..good luck

I checked the timing 12 degrees advance,I haven't tryed revving the engine to hyway speed, I just ordered a new aluminum hiflo w/p and a procomp fan, maybe I can get a handle on this, thanks for your in put:beers:

my 65 elky, runs hot on the hiway but cools down in the city,stock 350 hi flow 180 t/s i'm using a taraus fan my mechanic and also some feed back i've gotten here says the fan is blocking the flow on the hiway yet letting it pull through in town or could it be the water pump? anyone else had this same problem using the ford fan?:confused: I just want to be able to use my A/C on the hiway.
If your flow is good ... I would bet money Theres too much back pressure building up in front of the rad ....bad air flow trying to push threw the area of the fan opening ...cut some openings and install rubber doors flaps where ever you can in the shroud .
Don

well, thats your initial advance, you need to check that all your advance (vacuum/mechanical) is in, and when. if it is a timing deal, i bet somethings way bad, like a stuck dis. plate or a bad cannister, weak/worn/missing springs or some such calamity.
you can't go wrong upgrading to a hi-perf pump, but i would think an inadequate pump should really show up in traffic... not at speed.
listen to don, he may be 100% correct, and, he ought to know about such things. iv'e seen trap doors incorporated a few times, and, i think some brand new cars sport them as well......good luck.

What Don said about not getting enough air through rad at cruise speed looks to be your main issue.

I would remove the taurus fans just to see if that reduces the at cruise temps,if yes you have your answer to your problem and i would order a better elec fan setup that allows more air through rad from Don/alumitech.

But if removing the elec fans doesn't reduce cruise temp then i would say to check the timing & fuel calibration as stated below.

But i would also ensure your running a good street perf ign timing curve (16-18 initial with a perf cam & 20 deg mech in dist in by 2800rpm with a vac adv)and fuel calibration is not too lean either which can singularly or worse yet collectively drive motor temps higher too before you dig any much deeper into replacing parts like radiator,w/pump,etc.

If you get the timing and fuel calibration correct and it still runs hot @ cruise with the elec fans still removed then i would opt for a new rad,hi flow w/pump & stat,and new fans fro Don while you were at it.


Scott