I need to slow down to 12.1x's. I have just about qualified mathematically for the Bracket Finals in Division 1 and the ET Cutoff is at 12.00 for Street. :(

Preferably I would like to slow down the 60 foot 1/2 a second to keep the mph up.

I have considered disconnecting my secondaries to see what will happen.

adding weight is out of the question though

Any suggestions?

in the 80's guy's used to hook up a MSD soft touch rev limiter to come on when you shifted to 3rd and used the rpm chips to adjust there ET.

Originally posted by 1968 hot rod:
in the 80's guy's used to hook up a MSD soft touch rev limiter to come on when you shifted to 3rd and used the rpm chips to adjust there ET. Down track rpm controllers are prohibited by NHRA, don't know about IHRA.

Tom, you want to drop from 10.2 to 12.0, that a lot. I don't think disconnecting the secondaries will be nearly enough. I did this before my bar went in and only slowed 0.2 seconds (in the 1/8 mile). The only thing I can think of that might work is restricting the throttle opening. You can put a stop under the pedal or at the carb. I'd guess you'd have to restrict the throttle to well less that 50% of WOT.

Hey Pat,

Best pass has been 10.76 at 125.3

I was thinking of something to slow the short time so I can still have a big mph. Say 120 mph or so running 12.1x's

1.50 60 ft to a 2.30 60 ft ?

Call it 10.80's to 12.20's, the race is in Delaware at US Dragway 13...Sept 30, October 1 & 2. So I have to get used to running that way right now and the track elevation is closer to sea level than where I currently run.

This IS bracket racing, right? Disconnect the secondaries, maybe pull a little timing out and drive the top of the track!

Moroso adjustable throttle stop. The inexpensive one, that's a threaded rod and a stop.

Moroso limiters and stops (http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=32022)

1.50 60 ft to a 2.30 60 ftEasy just run BFG Radials. :D Consistency may go out the window, but 60' will be where you want it.

Steve

Yea, I misread the CR. Street tires, BFG TA's hook like crap, they will reduce the ET, but the MPH might stay up there. Consistency could be an issue, though. I'd guess you are already shallow staging. Darn, Steve beat me to it smile.gif .

hey tom just put a chute on the boat and and pull it in second gear! :D graemlins/waving.gif
bryan

Thanks..

The Hoosier QT Pro's stay, there is no way I could expect to run consistent with varying traction.

Last night I ran 3 time trials at 11.082,11.081 and 11.079 with .032,.033,.033 on the lights..

Limiting throttle and the parachute would definetly work, but I would like to keep the mph up around 119 to 120.

All this season To run the 11.00 ET Cutoff - Timing Curve a little slower, Secondaries are closed 15 degrees and 120 pounds added to the trunk. (Street Tires and Floor Jack) MPH = 121-122.5. which is pretty good and the car is dead consistent. 1.59x to 1.60x 60 ft's Every single time.

Maybe the best way to keep the mph would be to put in a 12" converter, use a real slow timing curve, and close off the secondaries around 15 degrees. I could add ballast to the trunk to account for varying weather conditions.

:confused:

How about a smaller carb? Or shifting at a lower rpm say 5000

Yes Chris, Short shifts are tough since I have been running the same shift points for 6 years, but I could practice and that could help.

I have a full manual valve body - How about starting in 2nd gear, closed secondaries and timing curve coming in at 4500.

Tom,I don't know about starting in 2nd(I'd be worried about that goofing on the tranny or convertor doing that,but it might work),but delaying the total timing,a smaller carb and/or lower shift points would sure help.Obviously,the things that don't cost money are the best smile.gif
..how about a 12 bolt with 2.73's ;)

Just pace the car you're racing,,,would be tough if he cuts a light and runs 12.00 though :D

Originally posted by Rapid Robert:
Just pace the car you're racing,,,would be tough if he cuts a light and runs 12.00 though :D Sandbagging is risky but might work.

It is tough to sandbag unless you practice at it, The couple times I had to do it, It didn't work out to well..hmmm still thinking.

you wont will the bracket finals sandbagging, there are alot of smart racers at the finals even in street.
Good luck, i wont be racing during the finals, but if my buddies are, i'll be attending.

Simple solution...
switch to oval port heads! :D
Oh, I can feel the flames now... tongue.gif

There's some ovals in New Joisey that I'm sure would take ya on Bill :D of course they might slow down the 540...but seem to work pretty good on them 500 ci. pro stock motors though.

If you are going to start in 2nd gear you will have to change the converter to a much lower stall to get much effect.

A combination of a 1400 stall converter, starting in 2nd gear, and reduced timing advance should kill some considerable ET. You will still probably have to put a stop on it to knock of the last .2-.3 ET off.

I'm with Brian. Buy a cheap stop and put it on and be done with it.

kill the convertor and this will slow your 60 ft times down it will take the car awhile to wind up and then it will pull hard on top end......the other way would be to change gears and 2 speed it thru the 1/4 mile but this is not near as effective as the convertor swap.

Wow guys, I cant I can't believe all the wild suggestion you all have here. Heres a simple solution to slow the car down and be consistant.

Disconnecting the secondaries and pulling the timing out fo the engine is nice. Even the block under the gas pedal is good :D But here is the real trick that wont cost you nothing and its "tuneable"
Back in 94 when my my buddie and I started bracket racing in the foot brake class. We had a low 11 second car trying to run the 12.99 bracket. :mad: Yes, the problem was, how to slow this thing down and be consistant.
Here the solution. Look at your throttle cable. Put it on a adjustable slider. Add slack in the cable at the carb.
You will always be constant because you foot will be on the floor board everytime you leave the light. But your carb won't be wide open.
If the car go to fast, Put some more slack in the cable to slow it down. :cool:
Hey , we came into the money rounds a many of times with this trick.
I hope this can be a help.
Everett

I don't think you can slow down that much and have 120 mph trap speeds (and be consistent) without a throttle stop with a timer. I'd just put a fixed stop on it and deal with the 110 mph or so you'd run.

I doubt you want to spend a ton of money on gears, converters, parts that you'd need and still might be inconsistent.


You'll probably have to relearn the tree with all this also.


Not that this is a good idea, but the only other thing you could do is just dial what the other car runs and hope you get a better light and just take the stripe, but they can easily push you out once they figure that game out.

Don't forget that the guy with the best RT usually wins 80% of the races. If you do something to mess that up, you'll be going home.

Or I'll swap you my 388 and you can go 12.0 :D 's WOT

Seemingly the best way to drop your 60' times while still keeping your mph up would be reducing the stall speed on the converter. Unfortunately I think this would throw consistency out the window. It'll be a fine line on how your car will perform outside the power band, and I would imagine a couple hundred rpms can make dramatic differences in the short times.

Thanks for all the suggestions...

I already have an adjustable gas pedal with a stop to go against the floor board.

Next race I will disconnect the secondaries and see what it runs, get used to that and then move down from there using the adjustable pedal

I will keep a good record of what changes each item does.

I realize it is a tall order to keep 120 mph, but there are a lot of good thinkers out there.

Swapping the converter is not an option at this point.

As you said Doug, I am not looking forward to re-learning the tree.