I know this subject has been beat to death, I have done a search and read most of the 496 combos on this site, my eyes hurt. This winter i made a deal with a guy, I installed floor pans and a trunk in his 72,442 ragtag in trade for a 496 rotator (it has yet to be bought) I was thinking on 9.1-9.5 cpr for pump gas. What i have is a four bolt block and 049 heads. The engine will be going in my 67 with 3.55 gears. I know there is a lot of stuff missing but hopefully someone is as bored as me right now and can help... I need to know what to buy,cam,intake,carb,converter,est. Have fun -john

It really depends on what you want to do with it. I like the RPM intake, 950HP, 10" ATI converter, then your choice of cam,,,hyd roller or solid roller, the XR286R on a 107lsa got me down to 11.001 with minor suspension work.

At 500 inches I have found a good single plane is hard to beat for all around performance unless it is a marine deal.

Cam will be dependent on your RPM range, how much air the heads are moving, and other aspects of the build and your goals.

Type of cam. I would steer anyone these days into a hyd roller for a street car. Initial cost up front cost is greater but service life and maintence are great.

Carb. . .all around street performance a good 850 to a 950cfm.

Converter, again dependent on what your goals are but somewhere between 2800 to 4500.

Well the car is a street car that i will occasionally take to the track on street night.I would like to limit r.p.m's to 6500 so the motor will last,i drive my car every chance i get,I would like to run low 12's but i know the car will never hook.

I'd build a good bottom end that you can grow with. You have a nice block, so put in a good forged crank, H-beam rods and forged pistons and you're set. I'd for sure shoot for more compression. You can easily run 10.0-10.5 with those iron heads with any decent cam. Get the domed pistons for sure. Gives you a lot more options.


Intake choice comes down to what cam you'll use and how you gear it. The 3.55's and a street type converter are probably going to like an RPM air gap type intake even with nearly 500 cubes. I too usually go for a single plane when you get in this cube territory...but 3.55's really aren't 6500 rpm type of gears..so it's going to be a hard pull to RPM even with cubes.

Running 12's will be possible even smoking the tires to the finish line. You can easily build low 11 sec (or even more) here with serious parts. You'll be able to get high 11's with pretty mild stuff.


JIM

Per D2k, my about 9.8 to 1 CR'd, 496" w/ Merlin 2.19"/1.88" valved ovals, a Holley Strip Dom. w/ an old 3310-2 tuned carb, a good old CC 282S, (282/236, 110/106, w/ right at .545" net lift), solid cam and just 1.75" dia., 4-tube, long headers should make like 550 hp at 5500 rpm and 580 t at 4500 rpm so take this w/ a grain of salt b/c the big mild mutha WILL produce some big power EASY!!

I figure UDHarold's new solid lifter cam that he created for me should up it like maybe 75 hp more!! Harold's new solid cam is spec'd at; 278/249, 110/106, .618"/.618" and need's .018" lash on both sides.

I figure that it is Harold's solid lifter cam version of the great old CC 288AR solid street roller that I bugged him to create for darn near a couple a years or longer b/c Iflat WON'T run a solid roller cam and worry about losing a lifter's needles.

pdq67

I got the block for free and the machine work and assembly will be done for free, as for the crank and rods most defiantly wont be the best, eagle cast steal, cast pistons.The rest of the parts i'm getting at my engine builders cost. I'm ahead of the game so far, I cant complain...

I'd put some money with it then and upgrade to forged stuff. No way I'd put it together with cast pistons. *Maybe* a cast crank.....but for the price difference I doubt it these days.


JIM

Cast crank is probably OK, but can you upgrade to forged pistons? They really aren't that much more. Where in western ma are you, probably not that far from me. Im 30 mins west of Albany. Going up to Lake George in 3 weeks?