Harold,

I have been reading every one of your posts that I come across. I am thoroughly impressed with all that you have to say. I am finally ready to change my cam to a solid. Here's the scoop:

I'm running a 9.9:1 454 +.030 with RPM Intake. I am also running a 3.73 rear and a 2800 Stall converter. The motor currently has an RPM cam installed and is too lazy in the lower and middle RPM ranges. DCR is around 7.4.

In looking at the newer cams that you all have listed on the Lunati site, the 276/284 solid looks like it's perfect. If I use the 276/284 numbers in Pat's DCR with the 110 LSA and 104 ICL, I come up with a 8.15 DCR. This is about where I think I should be. Am I using the numbers correctly since it is a solid CAM and do you agree with my choice?

Thanks in advance,

Troy.

Amatuer guess -.5 sec ET and +6.0 mph. Amatuer thought - your numbers are SPOT ON with that cam. It'll put a bite in the rat that a lazy cam like the RPM wont. Amatuer advice - dont frickin' cut corners, break it in on OUTERS ONLY!~ These are pretty aggressive profiles, to be lazy and break it on with full spring pressure is just asking for trouble. And stab it in +6 like Harold says. Sorry to tread on your post man. You're going to think its a new motor, heck, it'll sound quite different!

Gene,

You didn't tread on my post. I appreciate your comments. Actually you remoined me of another question I wanted to ask him.

Are the double springs I'm using OK? They are the 5762 Edelbrock springs. Seat is 100# and open 300# at .570 lift. I won't go past 6000 RPM. I'm afraid of going any higher with a cast crank. I'm running truck rods with ARP bolts.

Also, why is this cam listed with larger lash numbers than those closest to it in size? Does that make it noisier?

Troy.

I use 110/350 L88 springs, but Harold recommended 125-330. I should let him answer the spring/lash thing.

The springs don't get into coil bind until 1.150 with an installed height of 1.880. I think I could probably install them at about 1.800 and approach those specs. What do you think?

BTW Harold what are your thoughts on lifters? What should I use? Do I need to groove the bores? I don't want to disassemble the motor completely.

Sorry to be such a PITA.

Thanks Again!

Troy

My opinion, fwiw, I'd want a bit more on the nose but, I shift at 66-6700, it must flash to just below 7000( rev chip)only feeding 439ci. I think you'll be wanting to shift just a hair over 6000 with your gear, so either a tight rev chip ( 6200?) or a bit more spring in case it gets away from you, AND IT WILL! smile.gif

But again, I dont know what the 10% reduction over recommended nose pressure does for revs. I'l shuttup now and let a pro address that. But quick to reiterate, if nothing else, the increase in your DCR will feel nice. +DCR=+TORQUE!

Troy 70SS,

You are no PITA, you're who I'm here for.
As far as the spring pressures, the 276/284F10 has the IDENTICAL dynamics as my BB300/308F10, 267/275 at .050, .650/.669 valve lift cam. So I recommend 130 lbs on the seat and 330 lbs open as a minimum, because if you accidently let it get away from you, you can take it over 7000, and those little spring pressures will let Mr Exhaust Valve meet Ms Piston......
As far as lifters, I have used the Eaton 992s for over 20 years, with no oil holes in them and no grooves in the block, and still managed 100,000 miles plus with the 276/284F and the 288/296F cams.
Obviously, the looser the valve lash, the noisier the cam(that noise is the valve hitting the seat). All those .030 BB solids will run just fine anywhere from .018" Hot to .034" Hot. I always recommend tightening the lash down if you think you have too much bottom-end, and you will.
Cams like the 272/282F are a completely different cam family from the 276/284F family, and they have very different ramps. I have 5 different solid ramps that I use, and a lot more roller ramps. The ramps affect both the reliability and the power, in an inverse way. More power, less reliability, and vice versa......
The 276/284F10 was made for your combo. It will work just fine, but you need a good mech pump, and 1/2" #8 fuel line from tank to carb for max power.....

UDHarold

427L88,

Thanks for the support. You were spot-on in your advice. Thanks for the help....

No Sir, thank you!

I ordered the CAM yesterday. Thanks for the help. I'll keep everyone informed as to the changes it makes in ET and MPH at the track. I CAN'T WAIT. I've wanted one of Harold's CAMS for a long time. I'm finally on my way!

Thanks again Harold and others.

Troy.