Help!!Decision is driving me crazy! graemlins/clonk.gif

454 4 bolt block bored .030 over
Scat forged 4340 lightweight 4.25 Crank
Scat 4340 H-beam rods w/ARP hardware. .200 longer
SRP 12.7:1 dome pistons.
GM 325cc rectangle port heads
NOS cheater 200 shot (havent decided for sure)
Victor Jr intake
4:10 gears, Muncie 4 speed 2.5:1 1's
I was thinking along the lines of the
Lunati 402A8N 259/267@.050 .625 .625, 110 106

I want the most agressive cam I can get. Streetability is not a concern. Chris69SS recommended the UD288/296 for my original planned 454, but I wound up with a 496 with a much more aggresive combo. :D

Any help would be MUCH appreciated,
graemlins/thumbsup.gif
- Jason

Anyone else have any thoughts or suggestions? :D

http://www.iskycams.com/productdisplay.php?sku=1968&hdwt=31101&loc=101&dealer=no
http://www.iskycams.com/productdisplay.php?sku=1971&hdwt=31101&loc=101&dealer=no
?

Well, if streetability is no issue, and you have a long-rod 12.7 CR 496 with a 4-speed, and a little NO2, then I'd use the 402B3LUN, it's 304/312 at .020, 271/279 at .050, .630/.630 valve lift, and 110 LSA. It would easily handle to 200 HP NO2 shot, and make about 650 BHP WITHOUT the NO2. Normally I'd run it with a stiffer rear gear, like a 4.88-5.13, but with 496 cid and some NO2, I wouldn't worry about it.
A 402 with the 296/304F8, no NO2, 5000 SS and 5.13s, runs 10.60s in the 1/4, at 3200 lbs.
This cam will also go 100,000 very fast miles on the street.....

UDHarold

Thanks Harold graemlins/thumbsup.gif
I was tryin to get ahold of you by phone for a while, then I saw your post about the Lunati project... Hope all goes well for ya graemlins/waving.gif

Thanks, everything is fine, just overworked. I had to enter 360 lines of 8-digit code into the computer Thursday, and designed another cam and ramp, and another 180 lines of code on Friday.
I am also wrestling with the problem of what happens to a stock EFI system when you have 4 MORE inches of vacuum than a factory cam does. I did a design for a EFI engine that pulls 21" of vacuum with the factory cam. My cam is over 10° bigger at .050, and pulled 25". Needless to say, the engine does not run right. I think I'm going to have to tighten up the LSA a little.....
BTW, who says unsymmetrical cams aren't the way to go?

UDHarold

He, He!!

IMHO, Harold, I think you started this stuff about symetrical cams when you made the still "oldie but a goodie", 268 cam so darn good way back when!!!

He, He!!

pdq67

PS., and I'm sure glad you are working at what you love to do...

Well, my plans have changed. :mad: Again. For the last time though. graemlins/sad.gif I ran across a set of Crane Solid Lifters for a steal. 150 buck for the set, vertical bar. graemlins/thumbsup.gif Picked em up and ran off with em. Anyway, what would you guys recommend now, since I have a roller cam? Maximum effort strip. :D And what size carb? 1000CFM Demon, Or 1000CFM holley?

Please help me, and god let the frustration end soon. graemlins/clonk.gif graemlins/sad.gif

Jason,

Since you want to go roller, here are 4 proven numbers, and the 4.11 is about as low as I would go. All 4 are 24-hour cams, meaning that in other engines I have used them in, and they completed, the 24-Hours of Daytona.
Lunati---
502A9LUN--300/306, 264/270, .670/.670, 110 LSA
502B1LUN--304/310, 270/276, .710/.710, 110 LSA
502B2LUN--306/312, 270/278, .670/.670, 110 LSA
502B3LUN--310/318, 276/284, .710/.710, 108 LSA
They should all let a 496 run in the 10s, and the 502B3 will let a very light 496 run in the 9s.
The 502A9 in a 10.5:1 534 pulled 705 BHP at 6400 on a very conservative dyno.
Mercury Marine used the 502B2 in their 700 BHP FI 482s in the 80s, meaning that they ran it 300 hours UNDER LOAD.
I have many, many street racers using both the 502B1 and the 502B3, for years.
Let me know if you have further questions.....

UDHarold

Thanks Harold :D
This whole project started as a mild rebuild and turned into what it is now. Things get outta hand so easy graemlins/sad.gif
Glad I can mark one more decision off the list graemlins/beers.gif