Looking for some direction on how to set the correct endplay on my new hyd retrofit roller cam.

Where should I setup my dial indicator? Should the timing chain be on? Should the dist be in when setting endplay? Do I have to install some sort of washer or shim between the cam gear and the block? Or just the button on the front?

I would like to use my stock timing cover so I don't have issues with my waterpump. I am also looking for a completely stock appearance.

This is my first roller install so I need help!

It's easiest to do without anything in the motor but the cam and its sprocket. Don't even have to have the crank in it. Easiest to do if you leave the plug in the back of the cam tunnel off.

Dial indicator on the rear of the cam, timing cover installed as you will be installing it (with gasket, no gasket & RTV, whatever), cam button in the front of the cam. Bend the TC and adjust the shims in the cam button, whatever handles your particular parts make available, to get about .010-015" or so of end play in the cam. Exact value isn't critical, you want some but not too much. You can move the cam back and forth with a screwdriver or something on a lobe. Just be careful not to scratch or nick anything.

I'd suggest a stouter TC than stock. You can get them from a bunch of places. Just paint it to match your engine color to keep the stock appearance.

I see that Jeg's has a steel timing cover with a .090 wear plate that functions as a cam stop. It looks stock but should be stiffer.That should work good enough shouldn't it?

What type cam button would you guys recommend?

I think the magic number is more like .004 - .006.

If you use a stamped cover be careful about switching gaskets, getting a thicker or thinner one. If you can, leave the rear plug out until the timing cover is all buttoned up. I personally think most guys are better off with an aluminum cover with an external thrust adjustment. Have it glassbeaded, paint it orange.

The Edelbrock SB water pumps have a bolt on the bottom that can be used to "back up" the stock timing cover when you use a roller. You can run that bolt into the cover until you have the right clearance. Of course, you still need the roller bearing or a piece of nylon on the front of the cam. The cover with the wear plate is a good idea, especially if you use two timing covers with the center cut out of the rear one, so you can change cams without dropping the oil pan.

I think the magic number is more like .004 - .006.

If you use a stamped cover be careful about switching gaskets, getting a thicker or thinner one. If you can, leave the rear plug out until the timing cover is all buttoned up. I personally think most guys are better off with an aluminum cover with an external thrust adjustment. Have it glassbeaded, paint it orange.

Will my original short waterpump fit with this type cover?

A thrust washer between the block and timing sprocket is also a good idea,Crane & Comp both offer a top quality timing chain set that comes with a thrust washer,and there are also other varieties available.Without one,the back of the timing sprocket can wear against the front of the block.
Guy

I used a Cloyes TC set with rear thrust washer and a 2 piece aluminum timing cover. It has a boss for the roller button to press against too. It also has a tapped hole with a pipe plug in it you take out to check end play, I love the setup I just used a shim to get it right.

I fully assembly the short block with the rear cam plug out. Then use a dial indicator and move the cam with a screw driver as descibed above. I would recommend either a backup screw like on some waterpumps or a cover with a little extra rigidity in that area (just not a cheapo thin stamped steel one)

.004 - .006

That'd be great; but, given that we're working with a piece of stamped sheet metal and a gasket, that's a case of "measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe". ;)

To put it in perspective, a sheet of copy paper is about .006 - .008". The cam doesn't have to be THAT tightly controlled into place, that the difference between 1 sheet and 2 sheets of paper is critical.

Now if you've got one of the covers with the adjustable button, and you can build the whole short block including the oil pan (so you can put the TC on permanently) and do the cam end play as the very last step, then that might be reasonable. Otherwise, minor compromises with the real world might be helpful to maintaining sanity.

The Cloyes cover is pretty nice, it's even possible to minimize the leaks, unlike some multi-piece TCs.

Yes AFAIK the short WP stands exactly the same diostance off the block as the long one, should fit fine.

>> ""measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe".

You can do it that way, I prefer to set it up right.

>> "Yes AFAIK the short WP stands exactly the same diostance off the block as the long one, should fit fine."

Are you talking about a SB or BB chevy here? The pumps are not the same length at all.

One mor way to do it!

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p12/Herman61/th_IMG_1139edit2.jpg (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p12/Herman61/IMG_1139edit2.jpg)

>> ""measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe".

You can do it that way, I prefer to set it up right.

>> "Yes AFAIK the short WP stands exactly the same diostance off the block as the long one, should fit fine."

Are you talking about a SB or BB chevy here? The pumps are not the same length at all.

I am talking about a SB chevy. I thought the short waterpump was tighter against the timing cover. That's another reason I ruled out the cast aluminum covers. Will the cast aluminum covers fit behind a stock short waterpump?

That'd be great; but, given that we're working with a piece of stamped sheet metal and a gasket, that's a case of "measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe". ;)

To put it in perspective, a sheet of copy paper is about .006 - .008". The cam doesn't have to be THAT tightly controlled into place, that the difference between 1 sheet and 2 sheets of paper is critical.

Now if you've got one of the covers with the adjustable button, and you can build the whole short block including the oil pan (so you can put the TC on permanently) and do the cam end play as the very last step, then that might be reasonable. Otherwise, minor compromises with the real world might be helpful to maintaining sanity.

The Cloyes cover is pretty nice, it's even possible to minimize the leaks, unlike some multi-piece TCs.

Yes AFAIK the short WP stands exactly the same diostance off the block as the long one, should fit fine.

My last use of the Cloyes two piece button timing cover and the Hex A Just timing gear with the encapsulated bearing behind the gear , recommended "0" clearance, finger tight. Its been that way for last 5K miles on my comp hydra retro roller. I will be tearing down soon for winter, will see what happening.