I measure my AFR 195 heads and Hooker Competition Headers to see how they would match up or disrupt flow. Well to my suprise this is what I have:
AFR 195 Head Length: 1.380
AFR 195 Head Width: 1.300

Hooker Headers: Length: 1.315
Hooker Headers: Width: 1.535

The heads are .065 wider than the exhaust and the headers are .235 Longer then the heads. :confused:

Does this seem right or do I need to do some port on the Hooker headers. I will not touch the AFR CNC Heads, sorry they look too good.

deebo its your car so you will have to do whats best for yourself but as for me i tried to match the openings to my arf heads whitch did take alittle work with a grinder but i got piece of mind about it ,that is if i ever get my heads on a motor

Originally posted by DEEBOO:
I measure my AFR 195 heads and Hooker Competition Headers to see how they would match up or disrupt flow. Well to my suprise this is what I have:
AFR 195 Head Length: 1.380
AFR 195 Head Width: 1.300

Hooker Headers: Length: 1.315
Hooker Headers: Width: 1.535

The heads are .065 wider than the exhaust and the headers are .235 Longer then the heads. :confused:

Does this seem right or do I need to do some port on the Hooker headers. I will not touch the AFR CNC Heads, sorry they look too good. =
Boo,
I don't quite understand your measurements??
Is the longer up & down?
What you want is the header opening at least as big as the head opening, especially at the top of the port & preferably slightly larger which helps cut down reversion.
You don't want the header opening smaller than the head if possible.
If I am reading your measurement right you want to make the header opening taller so it is as least as tall as the head.
And you are correct, leave the heads alone graemlins/thumbsup.gif

wolf place is right and so are you leave the heads alone

I'm up against a similar dilema with my AFR BBC heads and 2" Hooker headers. The header will cover the top of the port unless I do 1 of 2 things.
1. Open up the header at the flange to match the port (might ruin the header if I grind through the tube.....they are coated)
2. Slot the bolt holes in the header so I can slide it up on the head. Looks like it will only require .050" or so.
As it turns out, the AFR head really was designed fro 2.125" headers. Talked with Tony about that. Don't have the cash for the bigger tube headers at the moment.

Ron

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ron454:
I'm up against a similar dilema with my AFR BBC heads and 2" Hooker headers. The header will cover the top of the port unless I do 1 of 2 things.
1. Open up the header at the flange to match the port (might ruin the header if I grind through the tube.....they are coated)
2. Slot the bolt holes in the header so I can slide it up on the head. Looks like it will only require .050" or so.
As it turns out, the AFR head really was designed fro 2.125" headers. Talked with Tony about that. Don't have the cash for the bigger tube headers at the moment.

Ron [/QUOTE
=
I go with option 2 ;)

Really don't know why these damn header companies can't put a real flange on their headers.
For what they cost for a bunch of bent pipe & a stupid flange they could at least make it 3/8" graemlins/angry.gif
Probably cost them at least an extra 3 or 4 cents per header :(

matched the gaskets to the heads ( they are trimmable Earl's oilites ) and then scribed the gasket onto the Hookers using blue, being careful to keep the gaskets oriented correctly. Grind away. Thse were especually tight top and bottom, so I'm glad I checked. Be careful not to grind too much to loosen the flange weld. But I would still grind it right and worry about touching up the weld later.

wolfplace it also wouldnt hert them to weld all of the outside of the headers