Hey guys....a couple quick questions......

I was just wondering if you guys think my 2 bolt will hold up with this combo.

327 .040 over
600 edelbrock
edelbrock performer intake
edelbrock performer RPM heads (ported)
crane energizer cam I & E 216 duration I&E .454 lift 110 LSA
10:1 comp
forged pistons, stock reconditioned rods, steel crank, balanced and line bored

I guess the real question is how big of a shot of nitrous do you guys think this engine could handle before it'll be a problem? I want to throw in a main girdle, but I don't have the money. Would I be able to do this later by just pulling the pan after removing the engine? :confused: Clearly i'm not sure what's involved in installing a main girdle. redface.gif Any advice would be greatly appreciated. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks in advance...you guys rule! graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/beers.gif

Make sure you Keep oil pressure and the oil changed and you should be fine

The engine will be fine. I'd quess a 100 shot would be no problem. In all likelihood you could double that. Two bolt blocks are much stronger than they are given credit for.

Originally posted by Pat Kelley:
The engine will be fine. I'd quess a 100 shot would be no problem. In all likelihood you could double that. Two bolt blocks are much stronger than they are given credit for. Exactly !!! graemlins/beers.gif

Probably 150 with that dual plane because of distribution issues. Put on a small single plane and I wouldn't feel bad about a real 250 shot. You'll probably need to change the cam for a 250 or better shot. More exhaust duration and spread the LSA a couple degrees.

Randy

I have ran 2 bolt blocks with cast cranks and cast pistons to 6000+ and never had a problem. {At least N/A w/o NO2} In my own case, the motor never grenaded it was always the drivetrain, yokes, trans, ring and pinnion, motor mounts. In a stick car, the crank sees a lot more shock than in a high stall auto. Yes, add a trans brake and a real good suspension and the stress level goes up in a hurry. Will tell you, I'm not a big fan of nitrous. I prefer to set a HP goal and put the components together to meet that goal w/o going the power adder route.

I've got a VERY similar 327 engine in my Chevelle.
I've run it up to 6,000 rpm almost everyday, and 6500 once in a while. Haven't had a problem.

I've got a 1964 block. If you have a 1968 or later block you will have a stronger engine than me!

Mike

Good point, the later 327's use the large journals. The bottum end is the same as the 350CI. The real killer in all engines is flat out abuse and detonation.

The stock rods will protect the block. That little bitty street hydraulic cam will prevent the engine from ever developing enough power or RPMs to overstress anything in the bottom end, at least without nitrous. Don't waste a bunch of time and money on a main girdle.

It will be fine just like it is.

The Performer intake would be a mistake. Go with a Performer RPM instead.

Everyone basically says that your fine with what you have, I would say that as well.

Although a bit disimilar my 454 Big Block was just a 2 bolt, we had a .57 lift solid cam and lifters, Wheland 3000 - 7000 high rise intake, ported and poilshed oval port heads, with extra l;arge valves and 10:1 compression, forged crank, hypertech domes pistons and a rev limiter at 6800 RPM's, we beat the $#@#$^# out of the engine and it never gave us a bit of trouble. I suspect the same of your engine even thoguh it's not as beefy.

Hey an

Everyone basically says that your fine with what you have, I would say that as well.

Although a bit disimilar my 454 Big Block was just a 2 bolt, we had a .57 lift solid cam and lifters, Wheland 3000 - 7000 high rise intake, ported and poilshed oval port heads, with extra l;arge valves and 10:1 compression, forged crank, hypertech domes pistons and a rev limiter at 6800 RPM's, we beat the $#@#$^# out of the engine and it never gave us a bit of trouble. I suspect the same of your engine even thoguh it's not as beefy.

Hey an ;) ;) ;) :D :( graemlins/hurray.gif graemlins/beers.gif

We did two 327 blocks for a engine shop in Florida 3 years ago they were being used in a road race circut, due to the rules the blocks had to remain a 2 bolt application and we were allowed to install 2 bolt billet caps and strap the rear main cap, and these were dry sump engines. When the builder got these of the dyno he said they made 510 horse. And as far as I know they are still running

I would say in your application you should be fine.

EXCELLENT! I'm really happy to hear that. :D graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif Sounds like you have almost the same engine unclepennybags. How do you like it? Know what it's putting out by any chance? j/w I believe the block is a 67 or 68....forgot what my machinist said. I will be going with the Performer RPM intake when I get a little more money. First will be the rear end....I think it's really going to wake the car up with this engine. (open 3.08 - posi 4.10)

Just a quick question about the nitrous/tuning. Naturally if i'm going to be running nitrous in the future I want my car to be tuned as good as possible. How do you know when you have your carb tuned properly? Also what fuel pump and/or fuel setup would you guys recommend for this car while running nitrous?

ToyzRMe - I will eventually get a cam designed for nitrous. Comp seems to have a good one. Just $$ so it will be in the future. Thanks for the advice/info.

chvyscott67 - Is there any reason you say to make sure it has good oil pressure and to keep the oil changed other than for good engine maintenance reasons? j/w

GRN69CHV - I can respect N/A engines, but for me this will be a bette setup. I figure when cruising there will be less stress on the engine than say running a higher comp engine, and i'll have the extra power when I want it too. smile.gif

Thanks for the advice guys.....very re-assuring! :D graemlins/hurray.gif graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/beers.gif

Yes, the little buggers hold together very good, imho!!

but if you ARE REALLY GONNA BEAT ON HER, I suggest putting some good aftermarket rod bolts in her b/c they are only 11/32"er's!!

But again, my junk 301 with who know's what small bolt unbalanced 283 rods in it ran above 7,000 rpm easy many, many times!!

pdq67

pdq67.....I was thinking about having the guy who's building my engine throw in ARP main bolts. What do you think? Worth it? Any of you guys have an opinion on doing that? j/w

Not a bad idea, but... if there's one single place to upgrade your engine's hardware, it's the rod bolts. Do those instead of mains, or in addition to the mains. Otherwise, the stock rod bokts will protect the main bolts from stress in excess of their limits. The next place that you should upgrade is the head bolts. After that, then you're ready to spend money on main bolts.

I already have ARP head bolts, and am having ARP rod bolts installed. I was just looking through my summit and a set of ARP main bolts for a 2 bolt is only $18, so i'll be doing that too. I figure I can't go wrong for that price right? Sounds like this little engine might end up being pretty tough. graemlins/hurray.gif

Heck, for the price why not main stud it??

You really may not need to at your power level but anyway for peace of mind, this is how I did mine in my 496..

I cleaned out the threads really good with BrakeClean and easy on the tap sorta thing, blow out real good!!
Then glued them in by screwing them in slightly over hand tight and then installing the caps and tightening them down so that when set they are straight.. Let sit for a day or two so they are set really good....

I installed my crank in my big motor by torquing it down in steps, say 20 pounds first, then setting the thrust bearing, first from the front and then the rear using a "BFT" and a block of hard wood. A couple a decent whacks will do you fine both ways!!

Next, spin the crank and tighten on down in steps spinning it as you go until you are at the torque you need to be at!! (And use what lube that is recommended on the nuts and such)...

This way, you will know real quick if the crank won't spin such that you may have to line hone the mains at torque due to the studs tightening things down so good that you squish the bores slightly!!

Mine spun fine!!

Good luck, whatever you do..

pdq67

The shorter the stroke the less the strain on internal parts. 327s are really hard to hurt especially with good rod bolts. I wouldn't worry about main studs just keep it from detonating with the juice.

Thanks again for the advice. Given that the ARP main cap bolts are only $18 i'm just going to have the guy who's building the engine throw them in.

pdq67 - What's the benefit of using a main stud kit?? :confused: Are you talking about using a main stud kit from ARP? j/w

I forget if mine are Moroso or HPX??
The 180 or 190,000 ones..

They just clamp the caps tighter b/c they take more torque to fasten them, that's all. You are pulling the stud vs twisting the bolt sorta thing..

pdq67

Originally posted by pegleg71:
EXCELLENT! I'm really happy to hear that. :D graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif Sounds like you have almost the same engine unclepennybags. How do you like it? Know what it's putting out by any chance? j/w I believe the block is a 67 or 68....forgot what my machinist said. Thanks for the advice guys.....very re-assuring! :D graemlins/hurray.gif graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/beers.gif I'm very happy with how my engine turned out. My semi-educated guess would be ~325 h.p. at the flywheel. If you have a 68+ block, you have the beefier bulkheads in the block!

Mike

Good to hear unclepennybags. Sounds like you have a good combo there. I really like those little short stroke, high reving SB's.

pdq67 - Sounds good. Do you happen to remember how much your main stud kit cost?

Just curious, where do you guys think my little combo would put me for a 1/4 mile run? The old combo I had was pretty much the same except it wasn't line bored, was bored only .030 over, wasn't balanced, had a smaller cam (the edelbrock performer plus cam), no forged pistons,and didn't have roller rockers. (ran a 14.5)

The car has a rebuilt TH350 with b&m shift kit,2000 stall, and an open 3.08 10bolt. graemlins/sad.gif

I can't find a Northern Auto Parts cat. b/c I think I got mine from them for less then $40?

Seems like they were either Milodon or HPX? I forget b/c I got my BB rod bolts from one and the BB two bolt main studs from the other b/c I was shopping by price to save money and the spec's were the same.. (In the 180 to 190,000 pound range).

Please check out Jeg's, Summit and Northern Auto Parts and do some comparison shopping unless you just want to go with their ARP price.

pdq67

Ok thanks pdq67. I guess that'll be worth the $40. I'll check out summit and see what they have. Thanks again.