Ok, due to some hasty and sloppy work, I managed to reintall one of my rear discs, but it wa shimmed incorrectly.
I ate through over 1/4" of metal (the iron rotor ate right through the cast caliper bracket, destroyed (not wore) a pad) and sent rust bits of metal all over my rear end, brakes, and driveway (when I washed the car).
I should take a picture.
I am just curious. I am moving and not sure I will be able to get to the track again this year, but I am gonna try!! Maybe my new converter was doing better than I thought!
Or maybe it meant nothing!
Any idea? Over the period of less than a month, it went from normal brakes to the rotor being destroyed, destroying a set of pads, and eating through the caliper bracket.
If anyone says "10hp" I will be pretty psyched (but also built up for a letdown at the track), because I ran .5mph within my worst "normal" run but the car was shifting 2-3 at more than 800 rpms below where I wanted it to.

Just curious. I need my TC-member brain simulations, if I don't hit the track once more this year, its gonna kill me. (Moving bites)

matt

Do you have a line lock? I don't and when I pull the rear drums off the shoes were twisted up in to pretzels. Foot braking in the water box can do that. Just a suggestion.

The damage actually wasn't caused by my relatively few footbrakes at the strip. The rear disc system I use needs .030" clearance from the bracket to the rotor on all sides, and I put the shimming washers (that I had measured right the first time) back on in the wrong order.
I actually have a line lock that I bought off of someone, unused, but I have yet to install it because of 1) enging compartment clutter, and 2) my stainless steel brake line is a PITA to flare, but mostly #1. If i could mount it out of sight somehow, I would do it.
This event was basically preventable and my fault. I was just wondering if cast iron vs. metal "duke it out" on one of my brakes could have been costing any significant hp loss..

Matt