I have done the T56 swap on the '67. The tranny was taken out of my 95 camaro. I have viewed the numerous threads about the swap, but haven't seen many pictures. I am looing specifically for floor board and tunnel pictures if you have them please post them! I am getting ready to repalce my floors and want to figure out the best way of covering up this beastly trans! Thanks.

I'll see if I can find a pic. I also have a '67 with the T56, and my new tunnel extends from the firewall past the end of the trans to give the yoke and U-joint plenty of room to play. I can't see how it'd have enough clearance any other way.

~Scotch~

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510709&page=1&pp=20 has plenty of pics. I also like the stop he made for the clutch pedal.

I've seen people hack the floors and really mess the tranny hump to get these transmission in there.. I mesured mine exactly, and left 0.5-0.7" clearance around the tranny..

I think it turned out pretty nice and not too tall of a hump..
Before:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/trannytnlbr.JPG
During:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/t56baby.JPG
After:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/TrannyTunl.JPG

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/kalthoff1/t56017.jpg


Click on my profile and search threads....I have a start to finish with PNs on there if that helps. I diodnt need to cut my floorboard, only for the shifter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/kalthoff1/t56017.jpg


Click on my profile and search threads....I have a start to finish with PNs on there if that helps. I diodnt need to cut my floorboard, only for the shifter.

So did you ever drop the body on the frame?

Nah, been working on the Z for awhile. I should have the body back on in a month or two.

I did the conversion before I tore the car apart, quite a number of years ago.
Put about 150 miles on it and tore it apart. Worked great.

Only thing I will change is when I finally break it is send it to Gforce and have the 6th gear changed out into something lower. I have a feeling even with 4.11s I may lug 6th with the size of the cam Im running. Even better yet would be to get the Z06 gear spread. That costs $ though.

how did you not have to cut the tunnel though>?

The only part that touched was where the bellhousing met the trans-One of the ears, either the center or the D.S. just touched. I did this back in 99 so my memory isnt super clear, if I recall it was very very slight. Couldnt justify cutting the floor up so in one spot I persuaded it with a BFH, not noticeable. The hole for the shifter was cut some and a little tin work but nothing like you had to do. .The rest of it was somewhat tight but nothing hit.

Im wondering because these cars are so old that some have tweaked so to speak more than others to where there may be tiny differences in fitment, mines been hit at least 3 times that I could tell. Poly bushings may make it sit up a bit higher too, just guessing on that as I dont have measurements.

Anyone have pics with an installed interior. How far back into a bench seat would it be?

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175854&highlight=turbo&page=2

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175853&page=2

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160117

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137989&highlight=T56

I put the engine and tranny in the '66 yesturday for moch up.

There's absolutly no way that tranny will clear without floor modifications. Starting on that soon.

Mark;
I agree! There are pictures of my T-56 install & the necessary tunnel surgery on the cardomain link in my Sig. It's not the greatest since it was my first time welding and fabricating, but in the end I got the desired result!

Good luck.

My body is going on in the next week, Ill see if I can get some pics. I cut around the shifter (if I remmeber correctly it was years ago) just to the left of the shifter and shaped some metal to close the gap. Trans tunnel near the front there was one ear of the trans after swapping in the poly bushings that just touched the tunnel .One good whack took care of it. As far as cutting the tunnel out it didnt need to be done in my case. Ill post some shots up when its sitting back on its frame, havent had time to get to it til now.
Keep ya posted. Awesome conversion and worth every bit of $.
hydraulic clutches are the :hurray:

I'm just about to join this group and install a T-56 in my 66. I have the stock bellhousing from it, stock everything really.

I have a few questions for you, if you guys dont mind.

First, what did you do for your speedometer? I know this is an electronic speedometer on the T-56. I'd like to, or want to, keep my stock dash and speedometer. What did you do in this situation? I talked to Street And Performance(www.hotrodlane.cc), they will modify the tailshaft for 505 bucks to accept the stock mechanical speedometer.

My second question. What did you do as far as a clutch? Hydraulic or Mechanical? I have the hydraulic throwout bearing, is it easier(cheaper?) to convert to hydraulic or to try to keep the mechanical clutch?

Thanks for your help guys, I really appreciate it! I plan on tackling this project when I get it back from paint.

Tim;
My install isn't complete as of yet, but my Trans is from an LT1 (clutch fork) where it appears yours may be from an LS1 (hydraulic throwout bearing). I'm not sure what motor you're mounting the T-56 to, but I recall that a T-56 from an LT1 is easier to bolt to a Gen I block. (can't recall specifics however).

As far as linkage, you'll need to go with the hydraulic setup.

Hopefully someone who has completed the swap will chime in with more info.


Good luck!
-B

Talk to Tyler at American Touring Specialties... He started his business building kits for these swaps... Now they were primarily for First Gen Camaros so his crossmember won't work with our A-body cars... But all the hard parts will... check out his website and give him a call on Monday .... http://t56kit.com/


Contact Information

American Touring Specialties
3685 S. Highland Drive Unit #10
Las Vegas, NV 89103

Phone: 702-245-6305
24-Hr Fax: 720-533-5293

E-mail: t56kit@gmail.com



From his FAQ page ...

What does the T56 installation kit include?
Our T56 install kits include all of the “custom” components needed for a successful bolt in of any 93-02 F body T56 six speed transmission into any 67-74 F-body (or 68-72 Nova) with SBC, BBC LSX and B-O-P engines. This includes a 3pc tubular cross member, adjustable length F-body hydraulic clutch actuator and slave assembly, adapter plates where needed, and a firewall mounted bracket that adapts the hydraulics to the older car.

Will this allow me to bolt a 93-97 T56 into a vehicle with a Pontiac engine?
No. The kit utilizes most of the late model GM components such as the factory bell housing and hydraulic actuator. The bell housing only has the starter hole on the pass side, thus making an early Pontiac engine incompatible with this “production” transmission. We are have an adapter plate to use the LS1 style T56 with a Pontiac block.

Can I use a 98+ T56 transmission with my non-LS1 engine?
Yes. We have developed an adapter plate for the LSX style T56 (98-02 F body) that will work with small and big block Chevy engines, as well as Buick Olds and Pontiac blocks. The key to this swap is spacing the T56 out the extra 3/8” required for the input shaft to sit in the pilot bearing at the correct depth.

Do I need to do any welding to install this kit?
No. This kit was designed so that a minimal amount of cutting and drilling is needed. No welding is required since the components have been modified to use your stock setup.

Does your kit provide provisions for a mechanical speedometer?
No. We do have a converter box (Sold separately) that will take the electrical VSS pulse that will drive a motor hooked up to the factory speedometer cable. Many hot rodders performing this swap are upgrading their engines and interiors with electronically controlled setups. If you would like to run a cable driven speedometer without a converter box, a tail shaft exchange is available from Jags That Run http://www.jagsthatrun.com. This conversion also moves the shifter 2” forward. The other alternative is an electronic speedometer from Autometer, VDO or Dakota Digital.


Can I use any 153-tooth flywheel for a LT1 style T56 transmission?
No. 2 pc rear main seal blocks require a Centerforce or McLeod flywheel that uses the LT1 style pull-off clutch. They also make one for big block Chevy’s. One-piece rear main seals can use the GM LT1 flywheel. A LT1 style clutch MUST be used.

My engine makes over 400 ft/lbs of torque. Will the T56 hold up?
Yes. The T56 is rated at 450 ft/lbs of torque, and I have personally seen stock gearboxes handle in excess of 600 ft/lbs. Most breakages come from running slicks on the rear of the vehicle.

I have a 94 T56 transmission. If I purchase your kit what else do I need?
We have a list of most of the items you will need for a full conversion:
• 93-97 T56 six speed with clutch fork and bell housing
• LT1 style flywheel (either 2pc or 1pc depending on application)
• LT1 style pull-off clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing.
• Stock 67-69 brake/clutch pedals
• Shifter assembly (Pro 5.0, Hurst, Lou’s short stick ect.)
• Driveshaft with Turbo 350 yoke, measured after trans is installed.
• Flywheel hardware
• Clutch hardware
• Turbo 400 poly trans mount and hardware
• Synthetic trans fluid
• Brake fluid
• Pilot bearing
• Clutch alignment tool
• Fluid pump
• Shift boot
• Shift knob
• T56 install kit (includes cross member with hardware, hydraulic bracket, hydraulic actuator with hardware [mounting reservoir, and attaching to bracket], CD ROM video guide with detailed instructions)

Thanks for the links. I checked out the website, and I'll give him a call on Monday.

Got my body on...With poly body mounts youll have to hack the floor up a bit...I cut the ear off on the drivers side tonight that stuck out, the bellhousing to trans bolt right behind it I had to do some grinding on that too, still touches.

Found the poly body mounts lowers the body....Going back to stock rubbers so I can run it the way it was before. WIsh my camera and camera drivers on my PC werent fried Id take pics. If you have a cell # I can take some pics and send them to someone to post. I dont know how to send cell pics to my email.

I'm running rubber bushings too. I figured, if the last ones lasted 30 years, I got my money out of them. Plus mines not a race car.

Looks like I will most likely put this 6 speed I have in my car. It'll be cheaper than buying and installing a 5 speed.

Ok, switched back to stock bushings and everything clears like its supposed to. Moving the body back just a scosh does wonders.

There is a rubber "wear pad" (dont know how else to phrase it) that barely toucheds the bottom of the body, I think it will be fine. :hurray:

Ok, switched back to stock bushings and everything clears like its supposed to. Moving the body back just a scosh does wonders.

There is a rubber "wear pad" (dont know how else to phrase it) that barely toucheds the bottom of the body, I think it will be fine. :hurray:

Got any pics?

Im having problems with my drivers, doesnt recognize my camera. Let me fool with it tomorrow and Ill see if I can get some for you.

Edit: HAH! Think I got it working. Will take pics tomorrow.

I'm just about to join this group and install a T-56 in my 66. I have the stock bellhousing from it, stock everything really.

I have a few questions for you, if you guys dont mind.

First, what did you do for your speedometer? I know this is an electronic speedometer on the T-56. I'd like to, or want to, keep my stock dash and speedometer. What did you do in this situation? I talked to Street And Performance(www.hotrodlane.cc), they will modify the tailshaft for 505 bucks to accept the stock mechanical speedometer.

My second question. What did you do as far as a clutch? Hydraulic or Mechanical? I have the hydraulic throwout bearing, is it easier(cheaper?) to convert to hydraulic or to try to keep the mechanical clutch?

Thanks for your help guys, I really appreciate it! I plan on tackling this project when I get it back from paint.

From which vehicle did your T56 come from?

I changed my dash over to all Autometer gauges. I figured I would rather have gauges a little more accurate then the stock 40 year old ones.

I used a hydraulic pushrod setup from t56kit.com I think it is now American Touring Specialties. The throwout bearing itself is not hydraulic on the LT1s

Mine is from a 1999 Camaro....or a LS1 engine. I thought about switching over to all autometer gauges, but I like the stock gauges. I wanted to keep the dash stock. I do have aftermarket gauges, A tachometer thats mounted up on the a-pillar, then in the console I have oil pressure, water temp and volts. For 500 bucks Street and Performance will modify my tailshaft to accept a mechanical speedo...thats about the same price or cheaper as a new set of autometer gauges....plus I can keep my stock dash.

Ill have to get better pics..A little more to do on floor to clean it up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/kalthoff1/CIMG1023.jpg

Clears Ok


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/kalthoff1/PHOT0043.jpg

67t56, Is the only place the tranny doesnt clear is where the shifter mounts? If thats the case, then I'll do what you did and cut a bigger hole. Or do you need the clearance in other places too?

Ill get a pic of two other areas. One is an ear that you wont use on the trans, it serves no purpose. I cut that one off .directly behind it on top there is a boss where the bolt goes into the trans from the bellhousing (scres in from behind) I ground on that one a bit and smacked the tunnel once or twice real good. Cant see it, only youll know its there. Just cleaned it and filed itwith fluid today, Ill get some pics later.

Easy way of filling it is with the shifter off just pour it in the top and wait for it to come out the fill hole. Broke one of those $5 pumps on the second stroke lol.

I have a couple LT1 Camaro slaves, anyone know if they are still good after siting for a couple years? One I used, one is still new

I'd be curious to see the cross-member you're using. Did you modify the stock one, fab one, or procure an aftermarket one?

Based on my experience with a T-56 install in my '66 Chevelle, I can't see how you fit that thing in their (AND achieved the correct pinion angle) without cutting the tunnel more.

Please provide additional pics and/or specifics -- perhaps the El Camino is different in some regard; or perhaps all of us who cut the entire tunnel out went a bit overboard.

-B

Ill have to get better pics..A little more to do on floor to clean it up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/kalthoff1/CIMG1023.jpg

Clears Ok


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/kalthoff1/PHOT0043.jpg

Ill get some pics of the crossmember tomorrow.

It is the stock one thats been modified. From what I recall (it was quite a few years ago) the tabs on the frame were moved back (2?) inches and are welded on the lowest part of the frame, the crossmember sits on top of the tabs. The "tab" or mount for the trans extends from the bottom of the crossmember.The holes are slotted, or elongated. Used a poly mount. I cut out a little more in the shifter area to clear (think its the revers lockout?) a switch just off the drivers side of the trand and fabbed up a piece of sheet metal to help cover it back up. It was a crude welding job, covered it up with that gook I had the body guy put on there. Honestly I think I cut out too much.

Was just under there a few minutes ago and yes, nothing hits.
Last time I checked it was 3 deg or something similar, that was before I tore it apart. Ill double check it again, of course. Had no vibration problems.

Keisler sells the harness to make the reverse lockout and reverse light work which I want to do this time around otherwise reverse takes some effort getting into. Used a B&M Ripper shifter, I absolutely love it, throws are "just right".
Stock one still shifts a little easier, just like butter. Still have it somewhere.

Wish it wasnt so far together this crossmember would be easy to duplicate with a stock one next to it.

Here's a pic of my modified cross member on my T-56 install. This was the mock-up in the early stages of my build, so excuse the dirt.

-B

Im going to have to take new ones tomorrow when its light out. Ones I took came out blury as heck.

On the pass. side near where the fuel line goes in the frame there is an oval hole nehind it.. End of my bracket was about 10 inches from the end of that, the center of the first bolt was 11"

THe tab on the crossmember that comes off the bottom is about 4 in long. Illl have to get pics, hard to visualize.

This camera is junk it appears, until I can get another or find somebody who has one I cant get any clear pics. Sorry! :(

It *is* possible that the driveline angles are different in otherwise stock El Caminos versus Chevelles since the back end of an El Camino tends to sit higher. This would make more transmission clearance in the El Camino.