307 rotating assembly for a 350 [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: 307 rotating assembly for a 350


hollingshedlr
Jul 31st, 07, 9:26 PM
I am rebuilding my 350 and a friend suggest that I put a 307 rotating assembly in it for shorter stroke and a better power turn out. I know it would lower the displacement to a 327. how would this work to my advantage?

RB69SS396Conv
Jul 31st, 07, 9:43 PM
It would pretty much guarantee that you'd lose a race to an otherwise identical 350...

zeke67
Jul 31st, 07, 9:47 PM
generally, shorter stroke allows for higher RPM

Mama Mayhem
Jul 31st, 07, 9:47 PM
You would be lucky if it would even start, because the compression would be so low.

BillK
Jul 31st, 07, 10:01 PM
You cant use a 307 "rotating assembly" the pistons are waaaay too small for the 350 block's bore. You can use a 307 crank, which is the same as a 327 crank. Complete waste of time if you ask me, especially in a heavy car like a Chevelle that needs all the torque it can get.

oldtimr
Jul 31st, 07, 11:34 PM
You would be lucky if it would even start, because the compression would be so low.

Yup
You would be building a 327 that the pistons were .125+ in the hole if I'm flopping numbers right

3.48
-3.25
-----
0.23/2=.115 + deck
yup 125ish deck

4" hole is about 12"/", so 1/8" is 1.5 cubic inches, and there's 16ish cc's to the ci so add 24 cc to your head cc to calc your cr. I guess if you milled your heads to 45 cc it would almost run ok

Or you could buy special compression distance pistons

Or you could leave it a 350, and stomp 327's and 307's all day long

307 is 3 7/8 bore btw, like Bill said.

Rotating assy = crank, rods, pistons

Lionel-n-Chevelles
Jul 31st, 07, 11:53 PM
Correct, the 307 used a 283 Block with a 327 Crankshaft. The 327 and 350 Blocks were the same with a 4.00 Inch Bore. Yes, you will be building a 327. Purchase an Eagle Rotating Assembly and make a 383.

SmallBlockNova
Jul 31st, 07, 11:58 PM
I am rebuilding my 350 and a friend suggest that I put a 307 rotating assembly in it for shorter stroke and a better power turn out. I know it would lower the displacement to a 327. how would this work to my advantage?

Your friend is a moron. Please ask him to explain how a smaller displacement will make more power:rolleyes:

kirkwoodken
Aug 1st, 07, 1:12 PM
I'm with Joe on this one. This is a wakeup call to start hanging out with smarter people. If you are the smartest person in your group, expand your circle of friends. Learning car stuff from smart friends is always better than costly mistakes that you make on your own, or from taking advice from a well meaning, but dumb, friend.

Learn before you spend. Very often, a "Good Lesson" isn't worth the money it cost.

manveru
Aug 1st, 07, 6:25 PM
Your friend is a moron. Please ask him to explain how a smaller displacement will make more power:rolleyes:

i could be wrong, but didn't the 302's stomp about everything on the street back in the day, an oversquare motor motor is superior at high rpm.

onovakind67
Aug 1st, 07, 6:36 PM
i could be wrong, but didn't the 302's stomp about everything on the street back in the day, an oversquare motor motor is superior at high rpm.

No, they didn't, take it from a guy who drove one 'back in the day'. They were fast but not that fast.

pdq67
Aug 1st, 07, 7:09 PM
And I'm pretty darn sure that I can put together a little-bitty 287"er that will run all over a lot of bigger engined cars if it is in a light body like a Box Duece or a Vega and then geared and tired right!!

It won't be all that streetable, imho!!

But it will GO!!

pdq67

Lionel-n-Chevelles
Aug 1st, 07, 7:50 PM
A 302 and a 307 are quite different anyway. A 302 is made by using a 327 Block with a 4.00 Inch Bore and a 283 Crankshaft. A 307 is the other way around - A 283 Block with a 327 Crankshaft. 302s also had the good 291 Heads with Solid Cam and Lifters. Although they are only 5 cubic inches apart, they are not even in the same league.

von
Aug 2nd, 07, 5:36 AM
No, they didn't, take it from a guy who drove one 'back in the day'. They were fast but not that fast.
Agreed. I rode in a friend's brand new '69 Z-28 and it was a dog IMO. It had the std 3.73 rear and M-21. It went low-mid 15's on the strip in showroom stock form. These cars needed gears (at least 4.10) and headers to run good.

dreis454
Aug 2nd, 07, 6:06 AM
Your friend is a moron. Please ask him to explain how a smaller displacement will make more power:rolleyes:

can't disagree with that!:noway:


BUT! ya gotta wonder why so many people are destroking 400sbc's to 383s?

I say throw out all the sb stuff & build a BB!:yes:

animal69
Aug 2nd, 07, 8:56 AM
BUT! ya gotta wonder why so many people are destroking 400sbc's to 383s?



A 383 is stroked 350 not the other way around.

HarrisQ
Aug 2nd, 07, 9:31 AM
A 383 is stroked 350 not the other way around.

Back when I was running 400 sb's everyone was destroking the 400's to 377's. They would say you could crank them harder but I could never figure out why you would want to loose the cubes :confused:.

novadude
Aug 2nd, 07, 10:42 AM
And I'm pretty darn sure that I can put together a little-bitty 287"er that will run all over a lot of bigger engined cars if it is in a light body like a Box Duece or a Vega and then geared and tired right!!

Why bother? Throw the same parts at a 400 block and go even faster. In fact, you could build a bigger engine CHEAPER and go faster as you won't have to rev the crap out of it to make the same power. This means you do not need a high-end valvetrain, etc.

283s might have been cool in the "Ike" era, but there are so many BETTER ways to go fast these days.

dreis454
Aug 2nd, 07, 11:20 AM
A 383 is stroked 350 not the other way around.
sorry I meant 377.:clonk:

kirkwoodken
Aug 2nd, 07, 7:19 PM
Yes, stock Z-28's were dogs. Both the Z and the Ford counterpart 302 ran about 15.1 on the track. If you advanced the 30-30 cam about 8 degrees, installed headers, squared the jets to 72 or 73, replaced the stock soft valve keepers, put in some valve springs with about 140# seat pressure after you were sure your cam was proberly seated, installed a 180 thermostat and 4.88 gears, recurved the dist to a realistic advance, bought slicks, and added a scattershield, you had a high to mid 12 second Camaro. But you wouldn't want to go against any Ram Air Olds, because they ran in the 12's also. I also had to put .100" longer pushrods in mine to keep the valve stems from digging into the stock rockers. Never did figure out how the factory messed that up.

If you are going to build a SB, there are few reasons to build anything other than a 400. The only thing wrong with 400 SB's is they didn't make enough of them. Also would have been nice if they put forged cranks in the truck engines.

Duntov wanted a 400 in the Corvette in '63, but couldn't get the bean counters to go along with it. A Rochester injected 400 would have changed the world of hot rodding forever.

I'm with 400's like pdq67 is with 283/302's. Ain't nuthin better.

Kirk's Observation: If you add ANY Corvette part to your car, it will instantly become four times harder to work on.