Guys,

I'm installing my new Crower springs that have 166 on the seat at 1.88". My heads have a "free length" of over 2.060 in some cases. If I use (2) .060's and the .58 locator, that leaves about 1/2 the guide for the seal to bite onto. Question is, how far onto the guide do these seals need to go? I guess I could get .050 locks, but that would only free up a "thread" on the guide. I still have +.830 retainer to seal clearance as is.

Any suggestions?

Guys,

I still have +.830 retainer to seal clearance as is.

Any suggestions?

?? You mean .083"? I can see that. I have .131" retainer to seal clearance with the valve wide open. I use standard retainers. Put an .050" drop retainer on mine and it would be .081" What kind of seals do you have? mine sort of "snap on" to the guide and stay there.

?? You mean .083"? I can see that. I have .131" retainer to seal clearance with the valve wide open. I use standard retainers. Put an .050" drop retainer on mine and it would be .081" What kind of seals do you have? mine sort of "snap on" to the guide and stay there.

Jim, where you been? Good catch, I have a total of .830 clearance, not counting the lift of my cam which is .600. That leaves me with over .200 clearance. I'm using those metal-clad viton seals from Comp. Just push 'em on and they stay.

I've been either under the hood of my car (changing valve springs) or travelling somewhere for work. I don't know quite what your seal looks like, but I can tell you how to snap the stud off of a Moroso valve spring compressor while it has the spring open at 600# and shoot all of the hardware across the garage. :mad:
So, are you saying that if you had no shims under there, the seal would go on further onto the guide? The "stack" prevents the seal from going all the way on to the guide?

I've been either under the hood of my car (changing valve springs) or travelling somewhere for work. I don't know quite what your seal looks like, but I can tell you how to snap the stud off of a Moroso valve spring compressor while it has the spring open at 600# and shoot all of the hardware across the garage. :mad:


:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:


So, are you saying that if you had no shims under there, the seal would go on further onto the guide? The "stack" prevents the seal from going all the way on to the guide?

Yes exactly. I have to run a locator though which takes up a bunch of room. I just ordered some -.050 locks, so I'll be able to get rid of one shim.

Here's some pics:

No shims:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q116/VGIORDANO_2007/DSC03021.jpg

(1) .060 shim, and .058 locator
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q116/VGIORDANO_2007/DSC03023.jpg

(2) .060 shims and the .058 locator - this is waht I need to get the 1.88 installed height, but look how little guide is expoased:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q116/VGIORDANO_2007/DSC03024.jpg

Vince, do you have enough room to use a spring cup to locate the spring on the o.d.? The i.d. locator seems to eat a lot of room.

Rob

Can you use the outside lip spring cup with the correct id? No inside ridge so your seal can go all way down?? Never used the type you are using for this reason.
I dont like those top banded seals, seem to wear out faster there, I used the lower outside band type . Sorry to interupt.

Hey Rob, valve pocket is only ~1.54, and the springs are 1.525. I didnt see anything in the Summit catalog, but it would sure buy some room!

Vince,
The proper thing to do would be to send those springs back and get a set that has the correct installed hieght to work in your heads. I hate seeing all those shims stacked under springs and spring locators. Lets everything move around too much :( This is why I tell people to NEVER order springs until they disassemble the head and see what they are working with.

Hey Bill, I only need the locator and one shim, think I'm going to raise the installed height to ~1.90 to avoid excess shimming.

Wadda think about seal engagement on the guide?

So the other half of the equation makes things a little more clear. We found out tonight that the correct locks for the ZZ502 heads have the machined lock sitting higher on the stem (lower installed ht.) than the locks that were installed. The correct locks are supposed to be silver (-.050).

Do any of you guys see a problem with using some -.050 lock on some valves and regular on others? Problem is, one of my heads has alot more installed height that the other (so much for quality control). There is approx .060 from the shortest valve to the highest between the 2 heads.

69-CHVL sent you PM.

Do you have to run seals on the exhaust? My brodix heads came without seals and when I checked into it they told me they do not recommend seals on exhausts.
My speed shot told me the same thing