I'm really thinking about doing a cam change this winter. I dont know what cam i have in the car now and would like to put a decent cam in it. I have a hydro, and am def wanting a solid. Lunati seems the way to go now, but i want to know what you guys would do first before i make some calls.

400 SBC .060 over 509 block
350 crank 3.48 stroke
383 cubic inches
14.5:1 TRW pistons
Heads are 70 over the counter GM heads ported polished and gasket matched, cut 2.02 valves.
(3973370....69-70...350..........over the counter, 64cc, straight or angle plug)
Team G Intake gasket match ported
Hooker headers 1 5/8 i guess
MSG Ignition 6AL...billit dist, Coil and wires all MSD
Th350 tranny...3800 stall 12 bold 4.56s
i have a holley blue pump, but stock line.
This is not a 100% street car as you can see i want a cam with a nice lump to it and pulls threw 7000 beings my gears need that for the trap. looking for low 11.s on slicks...possible faster if possible
Thanks guys
Ed

14.5-1 cr...I guess its not a 100% street car..lol. I guess you know the heads are the limiting factor. With out the flow numbers its hard to come up with a pick for a cam. With out work those heads maybe flow 200cfm at .500 lift..with work about 230-240...so 7000 rpm and still pulling maybe asking too much..I would ask Mike from wolfplace for some flow numbers from heads like yours

Man, those pistons must have huge domes to get 14.5:1!!! Pump gas it totally out of the question. I'd think you'll need 108 octane, at the least. I'm guessing a cam with 315º to 320º intake duration on a 112 LSA. It'd be interesting to know what is in it now.

Haha yea. I really would liek to get a new set of heads but funds are not liking it. The domes on the pistons are 1/2 inch lol. Yes they are huge, i'm worried about piston to valve contact as well. you can see the size of them here

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/2/web/290000-290999/290415_10.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/2/web/290000-290999/290415_11.jpg

I believe I already asked him for flow numbers and he said it depends on the port job...So i guess a stock number would be nice and then just guess from there?
I'm running CAM2 for gas, 110 Octane 4.99 a gallon around here.
As far as whats in there now....the builder was on crack when he did it and never kept anything or doesnt remember. He originally told me something around 575 lift and 330 duration. Ummmm maybe he thought ge put a solid in?? haha...now he said ohh yea Hydo..umm...blue racer 550 lift, 300 duration. That doesnt help me much tho... :(

WHAT DID YOU USE TO PAINT THE INSIDE VALLEY AREA. lOOKS GOOD.

Ed,

Not knowing the exact weight of the car, here's a good guess.
Either: Lunati's
401B6LUN 286/294@.020, 256/264@.050, .552/.573
401B7LUN 287/295@.020, 259/267@.050, .560/.580
Either of these 2 cams will make over 550 BHP with good ported Turbo heads, 12.5:1, 750/Victor Jr. They will work with your converter and 4.56 gears. If your car is under 3300 lbs, use the 401B7LUN.....
For this level of horsepower, you need at least 1 3/4 headers, or Step Headers, etc. The 1 5/8 will cut-off the top-end HP.
You need to buy a 2nd Holley Blue 110, some 1/2" #8 line, and 2 Y-Blocks. Put the 2 Holleys side-by-side, into a Y-Block, the 1/2" up to the front and the 2nd Y-Block. Install your 2 regulators on the exits of the 2nd Y-Block, and let each regulator feed ONE float bowl. Use only 1/2" line through-out your system. If you want a fuel pressure reading, join the 2 unused regulator ports and T off of that line into your fuel pressure guage.
This system has worked for me for about 25 years, and feeds up to a 750 HP BBC roller cam engine.
I do not believe ONE Holley Blue will feed your engine. You can run it as is, but if it goes very flat and lazy above 5000, you are running out of fuel.
Also, if you have 1/2 set of 1.6 rockers, pout them on the intake valves, this will give increased power above 4000.....

UDHarold

Originally posted by ctrain22:
WHAT DID YOU USE TO PAINT THE INSIDE VALLEY AREA. lOOKS GOOD. I think it is called 'Glyptol', or something real close to that.

Have you concidered a head change? A 215-220, maybe even a 230cc head would REALLY spice things up.

Oh so here it goes. I'm 100% about doing this. Harold you mentioned i should get the 401B7LUN.
How will the Idle be? Wheres my power ban? Will it bleed off some cyl pressure? Beings i dont race it every weekend or drive it much at all. A very lumpy idle would be great for shows and what not. I'm not worried about drivability. And what about piston to valve contact? do i have to worry with this cam? or is that when you get into the .600s lift?
Thanks a million all of you!!
Ed

Oh and just curious...I saw on the lunati site these two cams...how do they all differ from one another for my combo. I'm not second guessing you i was just very curious....

Pt #....40156
SOLID, Good for 327-377 engine with 12:1 or more compression.
4400-7600 .570".582"

and
Part #....40139
SOLID, Good for 377-406 bracket race cars.
4300-7600 .570".592"

Just curious.... :rolleyes:

14.5:1 ??? :eek:

you are going to have to be very careful with valve to piston clearance...very careful

The only difference between the Lunati 40139 and the 40156 is that the 40139 has a 5° bigger exhaust cam. The intakes and LSAs are identical. The 40156 will actually start pulling lower in RPM than the 40139, not the way they have it.
These are cams designed by their last cam designer. I don't think I need to comment further on them, other than to say that many people love them......
In your 383, the 401B7LUN should have good torque by 3500-3600, and pull hard to a peak around 6500-6800, depending on how your heads flow. This is assuming you up-grade the fuel system. Without doing this, it may not pull part 5500.....
Idle? Around 1000 to 1200, depending on how good a carb tuner you are.
As far as piston-to-valve, you MUST check it! Lunati grinds the cams 4° advanced, and this cam will run good anywhere from 4° advanced to 7° advanced. The exhaust valve is moving away from TDC as you advance the cam, but check it anyway, it's the most critical. The intake MUST be checked, also. I recommend .100"/.120" for street use, .075"/.090" for racing.
This cam has been very reliable in the 8 years I have been making it.

UDHarold

Crane 285M

lol yes 14.5:1....sounds fun huh? Yea, I guess i would check it with out and head gasket? or use the old one to check it? Then see what i have. WOuld i check all 8 or just one? You say Idle around 1000rpms i'm guessing thats very radical??

So with some good porting of turbo heads, and decent fuel system you are saying about 550 hp huh? Oh by the way, i have a 200 shot on the motor...I never sprayed it tho. Cam wont mind it that much will it?! Sounds like i'm gonna need a Tub next :(

secondly...is this cam the same as the rest price wise?or is this a newer more expensive gring? 149 plus 80 for the lifters i'm guessing. Also, where do i sign smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif
Thanks harold i'll be contacting shortly for the order...
Ed

LOL! You spray a 200 shot with 14.5CR and you're asking for an instant 4th of July celebration! Are those TRW's Nitrous pistons, do you run a nitrous cam?! Please be extra-extra careful with a combo like that! :eek:

The owner before me sprayed it and had no problems. When i put these heads on, the pistons looked perfect...they are TRW Forged, doubt Nitros tho.

So how did the new cam work out?

I dont know what cam i have in the car now and would like to put a decent cam in it Are those tear down pics current? if so, you can get numbers off the cam and check them,somebody here can run them down. I guess this goes to show ya what ya gotta do to a smallblock to make it run with a big block :D 14-1 compression and spray :eek: