Hi everyone. I'm a bigtime speed junkie and I'm building my first big block. I need some advice on my combo.Of all the research I have done and all the people I have talked to, it seems that you guys are the most knowledgable, I love this board. It's a 462 with L2465 trw's, 049 heads with 1.88 & 2.19 inch valves, I haven't cut on them yet but plan to relieve and polish the chambers and do a bowl blend, then radius the short side. By the time i'm done it should be 10:1 with .04 sqush. Stock cast crank and 3/8 truck rods, stress relieved and polished. I plan to go solid roller(I love the sound of solid lifers) as I already have the lifters and rev kit. It is going in a 3900lb G body El Camino with a 3:73 12 bolt and TH400. I want it to scare my passengers and put down some good 1/4et's but still live on the street, so i'm thinking less than a 3200 stall.
Now here's my question- What intake, cam, stall, headers, carb... should I be running? Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help!

Edelbrock RPM air gap,3500 stall,1.75-1 7/8 headers,950HP Holley(I love that carb) I'll let someone else do the cam,I'm in the process of disassembling a 454 also, going back .060 over,049's less than 11-1 compression and solid roller.

Oh yeah, I want to juice it. How much will it hold? I can gap the rings at whatever I want and I ordered up "H" sieries bearings just for N2O.

Welcome to the board graemlins/waving.gif . Gap the rings to what the mfg recommends. They have researched this.

Pony Hunter,

For what you've posted, and the car weight, converter, and rear gear, I'd use a Lunati 502A2LUN. This roller cam is 290/300 at .020, 255/264 at .050, .630"/.630" valve lift, and 110 LSA. With a 3000 SS it should be able to handle a 3.73 gear. It will need a good fuel system. If you plan on running Holley 110s, a NO2 car needs 3 of them, 1 for the NO2, 2 for the cam. Put them in parallel and into a Y-Block, 1/2" #8 line to the front, another Y-Block and 2 regulators, 1 for each float bowl.
The cam will make over 610 BHP on conservative dynos, and run for over 24 hours. It will be enough to scare anybody.

UDHarold

Pony Hunter; Have the rods been resized with ARP bolts?If not,I would highly recommend it.The stock 3/8" bolts are a definite weak link in a BBC at those power numbers. Steve

610BHP!?! Are you messin' with me? Wow! Are my stock crank and rods(polished beams, best rod bolts I could find) going to last? How much nitrous can I run? Thanks for the reply's everyone. Harold, you are a legend, i'm thrilled at your reply. What do you mean by "and run for over 24 hours"? I hope it will run for more than that. And should I follow Rapid Robert's advice on carb, intake and headers?

PonyHunter,

We have had 3 different dyno tests over the years of that combo, 468, 10:1, generally Team G and 850, that have pulled 610 BHP about 6400.
In SBCs, I had 2 of these cams finish the 24-Hours of LeMans in France. Those engines made 510 BHP at 7000, and only 11:1.
I have had hundreds of these cams last for over 5 years each on the street as daily drivers. Some have gone for over 10 years. These claims include the 278/285, the 285/295, the 290/300, and the 295/305, in both SBCs and BBCs.
To make good, usable power as a daily driver, this family is hard to beat.

UDHarold

That is a pretty high wind for stock internals. Were your dyno engines oval port? Should I even think of N2O with this kinda power? I have researched this cam(502A2LUN) and can't find any info on it. I can't even find evidence of it's existance. Where do I get it? Thanks for your advice. This is great! My first big block's fate is in your hands...

I finally found the cam, but it says it want's 3.90 gears. Still haven't heard any reply's on whether or not this thing will spin 7grand on N2O and live... anyone???

Boy, I hate to keep blowing my own horn like the cam I have is THE BEST BBC cam around, but....

Bob ( Rapid Robert's) list and I'd roll with another one of Harold's grinds, the 502A3LUN. with oval ports it should work really well with mild ( 3000-3500) stall and 3.70s. It's done on a 112, which will eat the gas much better.

Here: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECC/Chevy7.html

There's no doubt that Mr. Brookshire's recommendation will make best power, but the A3 might just scoot you down the track nearly as fast with its earlier torque peak. As long as you don't want those dyno bragging rights. Then of course Harold's reocmmendation is spot on.
3.8" rods huh. If my 30 yr old L88 rods went crap-to-bed on me, I would at least buy Manley Sportsmasters, or another set of GM 7/16"s. There maybe others of comparable quality out there. But not stock 3.8" truck rods. Even polished beams ( which I have) and ARP fasteners.

Well you got them, run them, but man, keep those sidegaps tight to keep the oil on the bearings. Then figure out a way ( like broaching) to keep more oil on those rollers.

That's hard duty man, for a small rod. I'm only spinning up a N/A 427 with the solid flat tappet version of that cam, and I wouldn't use 3.8" at this rpm. But use 'em if you got 'em. BBC bottom ends are pretty stout, but watch that gas man.

BTW, that cam done on a tigther 110 lsa and your combo will be an easy mid 11 car N/A. How fast did you wan :eek: t to go?

Thanks for your advice, Mid 11's is just fine! I like the idea of the smaller cam better, But should I get it ground on a 110? I would kinda like a mean sound. Is this the cam you run to a mid 11?

He would if he could hook it up...dang 4 speeds ;) He's run low 12's at 118mph I believe.

I am still debating which one to use. I'd like to know if anyone has ran either of these, what should they sound like with some 3" 40 series Flowmasters? Which one will do the best with a 150 shot? Oh yeah, I could't care less about vacum, Converting to manual everything.

Originally posted by UDHarold:
Pony Hunter,
It will need a good fuel system. If you plan on running Holley 110s, a NO2 car needs 3 of them,

UDHarold i dont think you need 3 fuel pumps. one for the fuel and one for the bottle is all you should need