OK...I am in the final stages of replacing essentially the entire braking system. I have read lots of posts from people who do this and have difficulty bleeding or insufficient pressure afterwards. I want to make sure all my ducks are in a row before bleeding.
I read through the service manual and a couple of things jumped out at me that I'd like some input on.
1. I have read a lot of posts suggesting that the norm is to bleed them starting with the wheel the greatest distance from the master and finish with the closest. The manual seems to contradict this and I re-read it 3x to make sure I wasn't misinterpreting. What is the general consensus?
2. I have a '71 with front disc and rear drum. The prop. valve is a brass unit with a rubber cap in the front of it. Under the cap is a hex fitting with the tip of a "pin" visible. The manual makes reference to this pin and says that on disc brake cars this pin MUST be depressed during the entire bleeding sequence (there is an illustration showing it using a GM special tool). I have never read about this in any posts and wanted some others to weigh in.
Thanks all in advance for your time!

OK here is what I dod. First I bench bleed the master cyl to get all the air out, then Install the master and fill. I will usually pump the pedal about 10 times slowly(make sure all bleeders are closed), then I will refill the master andopea ALL bleeders(put a container at each wheel to catch the fluid I usuall use a mason jar with a tube over the bleeder) and let it drip. Once you see a nice steady stream of fluid (dont let the master run dry) I will close all bleeders and feel the pedal. If it still feels spongy then you can start bleeding farthest from MC to get last of the air.
Recently I built a vacuum bleeder that can bleed all 4 wheel at the same time. It uses a air powered vacuum pump(harbor freight $9) 4 mason jars (cheap at wally world) and some clear tubing (got that free from work :)) well thats my take on it hope it helps

OK here is what I dod. First I bench bleed the master cyl to get all the air out, then Install the master and fill. I will usually pump the pedal about 10 times slowly(make sure all bleeders are closed), then I will refill the master andopea ALL bleeders(put a container at each wheel to catch the fluid I usuall use a mason jar with a tube over the bleeder) and let it drip. Once you see a nice steady stream of fluid (dont let the master run dry) I will close all bleeders and feel the pedal. If it still feels spongy then you can start bleeding farthest from MC to get last of the air.
Recently I built a vacuum bleeder that can bleed all 4 wheel at the same time. It uses a air powered vacuum pump(harbor freight $9) 4 mason jars (cheap at wally world) and some clear tubing (got that free from work :)) well thats my take on it hope it helps

What if your pedal is hard..feels like no power assist..any ideas..I have bled and bled..the brakes..

Thanks for the idea(s). I'm really looking for some specific feedback on the pin in the front of the prop. valve. Anybody have any input on that?

If the pedal is hard when the car is running you may have a bad booster. Make sure the vacuum line is connected and that the booster is not leaking at the check valve or from diaphram.