I just scored a 1978 454 (#3999289), with 5,000 miles on rebuild. It has 1976 781 heads. It comes with new Chevy chrome valve covers and a brand new Edelbrock RPM Airgap, balancer, and water pump...for $1,600! SCORE! :D

graemlins/thumbsup.gif And away we go!

Whats a fair price for a Mark IV 454 block, bare, good enough condition to use? 2 bolt? 4 bolt?
I think I am going to start collecting things for a 496 in my next car :D
Congrats on the engine score too! what are you going to use it for?

Matt

graemlins/thumbsup.gif

The only sucky thing is the motor was in a truck that was wrecked. I'm guessing because it's a two bolt block, and it's a truck motor it's probably cast, but the guys at Next Level Performance didn't know if it was a forged or cast crank and rods. I suppose I could buy a Forged GM LS6 crank for it and have that put in, and I'd still be way ahead of the game.

The motor's going in this:

http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=019468

Originally posted by MadMarv:
Whats a fair price for a Mark IV 454 block, bare, good enough condition to use? 2 bolt? 4 bolt?
I think I am going to start collecting things for a 496 in my next car :D
Congrats on the engine score too! what are you going to use it for?

Matt A rebuildable 454 will usually go for around $500 here. This is a standard price for a junkyard special. It varies from state to state, based on supply/demand.

Matt,I just sold a complete,turnkey stock 1973 454 w/049 heads with 88K original miles for $1000
Very strong runner..use as is,or add a mild cam,or go thru it

Sorry for the thread jacking here, but are 4 bolt blocks very hard to come by now? I don't care whats in or on top of it really.
And is there any easy way to ID a 4 bolt block w/o pulling the pan? Nothing obvious I guess? Its not essential, but I figure with so much shopping time, may as well try to do it right, since I usually never do..

Matt

Marv, I don't believe there is any way other than pulling the pan. If you look up the serial numbers for a particular block, and it could be a four bolt, it will say 'two or four bolt block...' If anyone else knows a little secret, enlighten us.

I bought mine from Arizona at a local swap meet. Mine was $600 and was cleaned and checked for cracks. These are Mark IV 454 with a 4-bolt main. Mine ended up being a thick wall which is good for .100" over without sonic testing. Sonic Testing would be needed to go .125" over. It was guarenteed as well. He now sells them for $750 because they are becoming harder to find...Appearently he said that GM is buying the mark IV back from junkyards and such...don't ask me why.

Hadn't heard that one...why would GM buy back motors? :confused:

is there any easy way to ID a 4 bolt block w/o pulling the pan?Marv,

Not positive, but 396 blocks with 4-bolt mains (most anyway?) also had two LARGE fittings above the oil filter. I was told these were for an oil cooler hookup. I have seen these on every 4-bolt bare block I have looked at, and I have never seen a 2-bolt with these fittings (2-bolt blocks usually only had one fitting, where the oil pressure sender would go)... Not sure if this continued with later 454 blocks though... I have a later 454 2-bolt block, and while it does have two different fittings, they are both rather small...

Originally posted by mr 4 speed:
Matt,I just sold a complete,turnkey stock 1973 454 w/049 heads with 88K original miles for $1000
Very strong runner..use as is,or add a mild cam,or go thru it AND YOU DIDN'T TELL ME FIRST!!!!??? graemlins/sad.gif

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SS_Sean:
[QB] but the guys at Next Level Performance didn't know if it was a forged or cast crank and rods. I suppose I could buy a Forged GM LS6 crank for it and have that put in, and I'd still be way ahead of the game.

you can tell a forged crank from a cast one by looking for a parting line on the rod throws and counterweights, a distinct parting line indicates a cast crank, while a wide raised die mark indicates a forged piece.

And if you want to change from a cast crank to a forged crank, you might as well go all the way and make a 496 out of her!! Imho...

pdq67

AS 66L78 said U can tell a 454 2 bolt from a 4bolt from the outside by the oil cooler/pressure holes above the oil filter on the older 454 only though 1970-1979 blocks sarting in 1980 with the #445 casting blocks all oil cooler/pressure plugs were the same size. The older 4bolt blocks with casting #'s #512, #289, and #959(or #759) had a huge hole tapped for oil cooler above oil filter its about 3/4"-13/16" or so. Its kinda hard to tell unless U seen the 2 and 4bolts side by side. Once U know what to look for its easy to spot.

I paid $200 for mine block bare heads complete.

Jim (Epistuff) thought you wanted a 4 bolt? I know of a 2 bolt out on LI for $300 that needs to be rebuilt,email if interested.