Lets say I want to pull out my cam and go with a new cam with a different profile...obviously I'll need to swap valve springs and have them set up right?

Ok, now let me ask this....can I have my valves set up properly with the new valve springs and spring height, all while keeping the heads on the engine? Or must the heads be pulled to do this?

Lets say I want to pull out my cam and go with a new cam with a different profile...obviously I'll need to swap valve springs and have them set up right?

Ok, now let me ask this....can I have my valves set up properly with the new valve springs and spring height, all while keeping the heads on the engine? Or must the heads be pulled to do this?


It can be done but make sure the installed height of the springs going in are correct. I used air pressure to pump the cylinder pressure up then slightly tapped on the retainer with a brass hammer to get the locks out. A magnetic tipped rod was helpful to keep the locks from going places they shouldn't. It will be a long back breaking job, I have done valve seals like this but not springs.

Steve

Yeah that's what I was getting at, the correct installed height of the springs.

I was thinking of buying a mechanical roller cam, (kinda thought about the XR274) new valve springs and new locks and retainers.

But I have no experience of setting up the correct height (it's a mystery to me) so I might have to have it farmed out.

Yeah that's what I was getting at, the correct installed height of the springs.

I was thinking of buying a mechanical roller cam, (kinda thought about the XR274) new valve springs and new locks and retainers.

But I have no experience of setting up the correct height (it's a mystery to me) so I might have to have it farmed out.


There is a special measuring tool that I have seen used to check the height, sometimes shims are required to get it right, much easier to do on a bench with all the right tools.

Steve

Yep, I agree with Steve....it can be done, but you wont stand up stright again for about 3 days! And the valves back near the firewall are tough to get to, and it's hard to read the instruments.

It will probably take you less time to remove the top end and do it than to try and fumble around with it on the car, plus you will be more certain of the results.

Darn. Yeah because one thing I really didn't want to have to do was remove the heads if I could at all avoid it.

If you have access to a set of snap gauges and dial calipers, this is easy. Use new retainer locks for safety. You will need a hand full of valve spring shims and a valve spring compessor, break over type or J tool. Maybe a good time to change valve seals too.

I would be interested in knowing how this cam and combination works out. I was looking at the hydra version.

Actually I have none of this stuff, I was considering seeing if I could hire someone to do this for me. Plus I've never done this before and want it to be right.

JYD I didn't want to have to pull my trans to change the clutch but there are just some things that you SHOULD do to do it right.:D

Actually I have none of this stuff, I was considering seeing if I could hire someone to do this for me. Plus I've never done this before and want it to be right.
The J tool , and simple air hose to spark plug connection and a machinest ruler, ( the one that most carry in their shirt pocket, will get you by. Gotta learn sometime. If you are changing cams, you can do this.

JYD I didn't want to have to pull my trans to change the clutch but there are just some things that you SHOULD do to do it right.:D

Yes I understand, I just don't believe in reaching around my elbow to get to my rear end if I don't have to.

Work smarter not harder.

Now obviously if the best way is to pull the whole engine for the 3rd time to do this, then so be it.

BUT if it's not needed then why?

Murphy says that you will get to the last spring and the retainers will fall in to the oil pan and now you wil deal with that. For what it takes to do the springs for 16 valves, 32 retainers and shims on the car and the risk taken of droping a part, just do your self a favor and spend less time doing it right. take the heads off and do it on a bench. You'll save time and and knuckles.
I can see doing it on the motor for one or 2 springs but not 16.

Just my opinion.

If you're really up for it, go for it. Not saying it cant be done, it's just not very comfortable. Pulling the heads off and back on while reaching over the fenders is no picnic either!! (Im still waiting for my left hand, middle finger nail to grow back after mashing it between the head and block about 3 months ago!) You can do it, I have changed valve springs several times without pulling the engine or heads. Just do a few at a time, and take a break. You'll do a lot of bending over, and your back will hurt big time if you dont take lots of breaks. Clean the floor under your car really good, or better yet, slip a big piece of cardboard under there...I used an old, light colored blanket...worked nicely cause the things I dropped didnt bounce away, and it was easy to see them! Get a telescoping pickup tool with the magnet, and use it to take off the locks while you're holding the spring open (tricky part) Use paper towels or rags to plug holes in the head that lead down inside, so little parts dont go there! Use lots of lighting. Get the right tools together beforehand, and you'll be OK. Take your time, measure twice.

Are you guys really serious about pulling the heads/engine to setup springs? Geesh, I have all my springs out and measured all the heights. Took 1-1.5hrs.

I think your asking for more problems pulling the heads (more debris in the motor, have to buy gaskets, torquing them, stressing the block threads, etc).

This is pretty easy to do, and your talking to a guy whose back is as jacked-up as anybody's.

Here's my high-end height checker. This and a digital caliper work great. I checked this against a spring height mic and they were both dead even. According to Comp, the spring heights need to be within .020 of each other, which is a pretty large margin IMO. What you do is measure all the valves, find the shortest one, and set them all up to that one (within .020). I'm getting all mine within a couple of .000's rather easily.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q116/VGIORDANO_2007/springheight.jpg

Hey 69
He will already have pulled every thing off the front of the motor along with the intake in order to change the cam unless there is an easier to do it. Is there a way to install a cam without pulling the lifters and the timing cover. In for a penny, in for a pound.

Changing a cam is one thing, fighting headers and takeing 75lb heads is another ball game.

If your pulling the front of the motor apart and heads, take the motor out IMO.

Maye be I'm wrong but I did'nt read one post asking "junkyard" how many miles were on the motor. How many miles on the cam bearings to be specific. Are we gonna assume they're ok or does he plan to have the new cam machined to the worn in tollerances of the old bearings? which by the way can't all be replaced with the motor in the car.

Are you guys really serious about pulling the heads/engine to setup springs? Geesh, I have all my springs out and measured all the heights. Took 1-1.5hrs.

I think your asking for more problems pulling the heads (more debris in the motor, have to buy gaskets, torquing them, stressing the block threads, etc).

This is pretty easy to do, and your talking to a guy whose back is as jacked-up as anybody's.

Here's my high-end height checker. This and a digital caliper work great. I checked this against a spring height mic and they were both dead even. According to Comp, the spring heights need to be within .020 of each other, which is a pretty large margin IMO. What you do is measure all the valves, find the shortest one, and set them all up to that one (within .020). I'm getting all mine within a couple of .000's rather easily.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q116/VGIORDANO_2007/springheight.jpg

Necessity, this is kool, and I thought I was a poor boy. Leaned something , new revised snap gauge.