So, after contemplating on a hydroboost set-up or vacuum pump, I decided hydroboost is the way I wanna go. I'm now faced with another decision, do I retro-fit one, or just hand the money over t hydratech and save myself the troubles? I wish hydratech would give me credit for the cores as I have to prefectly good ones sitting in my garage but oh well. So, what would you do?

Since I've been waiting over 2 months to get mine from a private seller on eBay, of which he says he's on his 5th try to get one from his "supplier".....why would you ever sell something you don't have? I'd buy the rebuild kits, rebuild them myself, and sell all of them but the one I need....in fact, I STILL NEED ONE! There are those of us out there who need one and know even with the hoses, they're not worth $600+ for the kit. My two cents.....and let me know if you want to get rid of "one of them sitting around." I'd be glad to take it off your hands:D
Mike

Here are the ones I have. One has a flat mounting pad while the other is angled.

Hydroboost (http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a266/rianbechtold/ash006.jpg)

Hydroboost 2 (http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a266/rianbechtold/ash005.jpg)

i have just came across a system as well... does anyone know if i need to get a new style power steering pump..and should i replace the lines??? also for anyone who deosnt know..these hydroboost systems are stock pieces from the 80's style diesel trucks...gm..not sure about any other makes.

The problem I'm having is finding on with the correct plate. I'm pretty sure the one I have with the angled plate is perfect but can't seem to find it anywhere! I pulled it off of some 80's gm station wagon. However, all the ones of the 80's cars (not the trucks) have the inferior internal acumulator.

How about one from a mustang?

http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/

Scoll towards the bottom.

thats an amazing site..gives most the details u need and i am willing to bet that you could get those cheap from the wreckers...thanks for the info matt

thats an amazing site..gives most the details u need and i am willing to bet that you could get those cheap from the wreckers...thanks for the info matt

No problem. I've seen the car in person.....very very nice.

here is everything you need to do to get a HB on your A-body

you will need;
-salvage HB system with all the lines, master cyl, and rez
-custom lines from napa for the pressure side
-mounting hardware (hardware store)
-rear adj prop valve (summit)
-metric to standard brake line fittings (napa)
-various barb to barb fittings for the return side
-a 90deg barb / barb fitting for the return from the HB
-brake line flare and bending tools
-paint
-one old brake booster
-unibit to drill the rivits off of the old brake booster bracket
-All new stainles brake lines are good idea with all the pressure us will be making soon
-one fine thread bolt to cut and weld to the HB rod for the old brake pedal bracket to attatch to.

note** on the brake pedal rod. cut and weld your fine thread bolt to the HB rod. Then clean up the rod so you can sleave it. Slide the sleave in place and weld the sleave. Now it is never going to brake.

find a mid 90's astro or savana van core less than $100 at the yard,
http://a577.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/114/l_260e06f42cff36c30dcb6a068e4d7648.jpg

add paint and shazam!
http://a246.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/123/l_f9e1fe6f772ed392621a580060e5f425.jpg

add one old brake booster as a core for the bracket
hydratech would NOT sell this to me seperate...no matter what.
.....I'm very tempted to CNC about 1000 of them and sell them at my cost on the internet....
..but the stamped bracket works so well I play by myself over here...
http://a771.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/94/l_fdfd4c9970f0cc6daf2f6999fbe58372.jpg

reuse the hard line that came with the OEM HB, Napa sells these connections and lines.
this costs about $60 a line but I went super long to tuck it in the fender
http://a192.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/75/l_bc42c5cc40c6e815fc01e22e739c70ff.jpg

lines tucked in fender out to the pump and box
http://a674.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/128/l_d5faf0fb300402ab18c1432a681ec2c9.jpg

hoses in and out of box and pump, added in a ball valve to purge system
http://a432.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/71/l_db94b612def19df6fbd78207b51c6acf.jpg

custom bend some brake lines to a summit or willwood prop valve for the rear and go to the distor block, do not use a prop block!
http://a965.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/107/l_207c569415282e9ad8fe8085164de804.jpg

the HB will leave you with lots of extra room where the booster used to be
now you can clean up all the wires and mess on the fire wall you have been putting off!
http://a923.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/101/l_9778cc32fbf0cb224e4854649882540a.jpg

Now your A-body will stop as good as the tires and suspension will let it.

Have fun!

I've seen the mustang set-up but don't like the idea of using the hydroboost and vertical master cylinder they have. Pretty much any of the smaller vehicle's HB's will work. I believe the codes JB3 JB5 and JD3 are the ones to look for. Also, just so you know tunedbytad, the brackets are available from most chrome shops.

Does anyone know if hard lines can be used to plumb the HB? Also, If you got a HB from a ertain vehicle, would you have to use the master cylinder from that vehicle also?

Nice How TO!!! I might go this route vs. spending $800

yeah what he said!!!

So if you are going to fab your own HB system do you have to find a donor HB from a disc/disc car to use on your disc/disc chevelle? Also, if yoiu have an adustable prop valve, what does the dist valve do and where do you get them?

$800? Check out Hydratech at www.Hydratechbraking.com for brand new hydro boost kits specifically built for your car. line delete kits are $525 and kits with braided lines are $695 and the hydro boost is the best way to get the most out of your braking system and you probably can use the same master cylinder you have now.
Trust me I'm all for saving a buck or two, but this could be your life your dealing with. My hats off to those who can perform these type of mods with confidence and skill, but welding the pedal rod? Be sure your comfortable with your welding skills, cause if it fails the car/wall you hit may be your last and the liability, well we wont go there.
Remember our cars are projects and you are the Chief engineer and supervisor of this project and the final product is up to you.
Please understand this is not a rag, but just some advice, thats why we all visit site like this. I speak from personal experience and have seen too many cut corners in spite of safety and reliability. I'm not saying don't do it just be
sure of what you may be getting yourself into and if you want to learn more about hydro boost system give Paul a call at Hydratech, he's a great guy and he''ll answer any of your questions.

Yea, but $700 dollars for a $100 part with a little custom rod on it and hoses that can be made at home after a trip to a hot rod shop for the parts? Why so expensive? They advertise these parts like they're some kind of magical find when, in reality, they're found in many cars in the junkyard. I can pull one out of a gm truck and compare them side by side and dare you to tell the difference. Well, except for one costing almost $600 and the other costing $100.

So if you are going to fab your own HB system do you have to find a donor HB from a disc/disc car to use on your disc/disc chevelle? Also, if yoiu have an adustable prop valve, what does the dist valve do and where do you get them?

No, from what I've gathered, there are basically two different types of gm hydroboost (not including the powermaster) the two types depend on GVW. All the other differences deal with the accumulator (internal or external), the mounting plate, and the pedal rod.

line delete kits are $525
$2 to get in the yard
$75 for the HB, Master, & old lines

$800? Check out Hydratech at www.Hydratechbraking.com for brand new hydro boost kits specifically built for your car.
$2 to get in the yard
$75 for the HB, Master, & old lines
$180 for custom super Heavy Duty lines /w extra length to run in the fender
$20 for new brake hard line
$42 adj. prop valve
$20 for a donor vac booster (you can use the old POS for free!)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
$319

I spent around $420 after all the might as wells that would not come with a Hydratech system.
-new stainless brake lines
-new fluid
-new wire to clean up fire wall
-paint to clean up fire wall
-summit brand heat sleeve to protect the wire harness
-ect....

My hats off to those who can perform these type of mods with confidence and skill, but welding the pedal rod?

Yes, I had the pedal rod welded.
The procedure I used was conceived by a real rocket scientist / mechanical engineer.
The rod is welded, ground flush, sleeved, then the sleeve is welded.
You could stand a Cadillac on that rod and it not break like that.

Be sure your comfortable with your welding skills, cause if it fails the car/wall you hit may be your last and the liability, well we wont go there.
Remember our cars are projects and you are the Chief engineer and supervisor of this project and the final product is up to you.

I'll take a home brew HB system over the worn out stock POS vac assist any day. Home Brew means you need tools like a Uni Bit, Drill, Welder, pipe bender, pipe flare. And some skills with the tools. It will not be a direct bolt on. On the other hand my HB system has zero braided line. I hate working with braided line.


give Paul a call at Hydratech, he's a great guy and he''ll answer any of your questions.

The person on the line at Hydratech would not sell me the adapter to the fire fire wall separate. My mind was made up. Savage yard system with a heavy how to post on TC. An aluminum block with 5 holes in it is not "intellectual property" it is the "offspring of necessity". Necessity + Master CAM CAD program + 12minutes + email to favorite CNC shop + debit card =s 200 of these on my door step before the end of the month. Cutting up a $20 salvage yard booster was too easy.

~~! Is the true meaning of Hot Rodding..... Dead??? !~~~
~~! Did your car rise up from a catalog, our your imagination? !~~

Had to revive this post, too much good stuff!!

Just a little food for thought. Like most things in life the devil is in the details. Why does a Lingenfelter stroker LSX motor cost more than a rebuilt LS1 from Autozone or a used one out of a smashed `98 Z28? They look the same! Bet ya can`t tell the difference. :thumbsup:
I don`t know what Paul and Co. does to their hydraboost units exactly (they won`t tell me either!) but having used a lot of OE units over the years and Hydratech`s lately they`re much smoother and much easier to modulate than the OE units are. Not a big deal on a furniture truck but a really nice thing on a fast performance car. Getting an all new unit also ensures that you don`t go through all that work and get a used one that`s got a really lumpy pedal and makes noise. :( Mark SC&C

Just a little food for thought. Like most things in life the devil is in the details. Why does a Lingenfelter stroker LSX motor cost more than a rebuilt LS1 from Autozone or a used one out of a smashed `98 Z28? They look the same! Bet ya can`t tell the difference. :thumbsup:
I don`t know what Paul and Co. does to their hydraboost units exactly (they won`t tell me either!) but having used a lot of OE units over the years and Hydratech`s lately they`re much smoother and much easier to modulate than the OE units are. Not a big deal on a furniture truck but a really nice thing on a fast performance car. Getting an all new unit also ensures that you don`t go through all that work and get a used one that`s got a really lumpy pedal and makes noise. :( Mark SC&C


I'm sure the delphi 600 steering boxes are ten times better than the grand cherokee steering boxes. But some of us can't afford this route. I don't know why everyone has to give the run around on how to do it and which ones to use. I'm not at all putting down hydrateh, they're products are nice (I'll probably be buying one from them soon) but they are, despite what people argue, pricey. And I know they saying of if you put so much money in your car to go fast, this seems like nothing to make it able to stop. However, how do most people start their engine build? Generally, we start at a junkyard with a used block. Sure some people pick up a catalog and order a brand new, top of the line block, but that paath isn't an option for most.