Grabbing this disc/drum mc off a donor '70, wanted to see if this is an original one or not.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j80/RD70/MC.jpg

Also where is the hold-off valve that supposed to be connected directly to the MC? I don't see it.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j80/RD70/hold-off.jpg

Could someone help me? Thanks!

You're right, no valve. Should have one. Also, not an original M/C either. Should have bleeders. Probably thru the valve away when they changed the M/C.

So if not original MC, anybody can tell what kind it is and if its worth taking?

Here's the distribution block on the frame.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j80/RD70/distblock.jpg

Is this the stock part?

I already removed the disc spindle assemblies which I think are worth keeping and installing on my car. So should I just get a new MC and proportioning valve? This is going on a power drum 70.

Thanks

Just get a new M/C. That style is still available. Not worth getting it rebuilt.

the proportioning valve (the one mounted on the frame - not the hold-off valve)hat you've shown in the pics is an original piece.

I have a 70-71 hold-off valve that I was going to list in the classified. I bought it before I realized that the '69 hold-off valve is different that the 70-71 valve. shoot me a PM if your interested in it. It is dated "D 71"

I have a hold off (proportioning valve) on E-bay right now. I'm unsure if it was factory (Bendix is the Mfg.) and looks like the one pictured.

Is it a factory part ?

Sorry, not trying to steal thread.

http://i4.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/ac/75/2a78_1.JPG

So what do you guys think? Should I try to use this donor M/C together with a new proportioning valve (MBM PV2) OR just get a new M/C and the pro-valve?

I've been reading that some guys bypass the pro-valve and just run an adjustable valve for the rears with success.

More advice would be appreciated! Thanks

Update: I ending up using the donor M/C and booster, installed along with the donor disc spindle/rotor assemblies. I got an MBM proportioning valve although we didn't install it yet due to time constraints.

So basically just did a straight swap, reconnected the lines, bled brakes and drove it. Man, feels SO much better. I know that pro-valve is the correct way to do it and it will be installed later, but it seems to brake just fine. I guess the original drums were in pretty bad shape. Luckily the donor rotors and pads were pretty unused, just some minor surface rust on the rotors and calipers.

While we were in there, we cut a coil off each spring and now not only does it brake better, it looks better too!

Will update again after we get the pro-valve installed.