I am building a 540-555 Thinking of useing a forged Eagle crank and rods (L-19 bolts) This will be a 900 hp motor NA (hopefully) and 1250-1300 with a healthy dose of nitrous, 7500 rpms max.

Anybody have any experiance with this kind of rpm with the Eagle stuff on a long term basis.

You probably could get by until you said you want to spray the thing. Personally I like aluminum rods on a NOS engine. Buy the best crank you can afford. It's not the rpm's that hurt parts, it's the added cyl. pressure. I have no experience with the eagle stuff.I either use Callies or Lunati for the cranks. I like the Howards rods,especially quality for the dollars. I hope you found a good stout block for this?

Flyboy: Plan on using a good block, Merlin 3 or similar. This will be a street / strip car that will see the track 3-4 times a year, probably 30-50 runs a year max. Do not want to use an aluminum rod.

If you plan on spraying more than 300, you cannot use a moly ring. You will need either a Hellfire or tool steel ring. They are a little hard on the bores, but they hold up to the heat. Actually I was spraying only up to a 200 shot in a little SBF and we pretty much wiped the moly off the rings in that thing in only a year. Not trying to be a killjoy, but trying to be realistic.If you are comfortable with working around a few obstacles things should do well. The merlin blocks are nice, but I think for a few dollars more the Dart pieces are finished a little better, but both will do a good job.

Eagle says there 4340 BBC crank is good for 1500+ hp. They say the ESP H beam (not the lightened 3d) are good for "over 800hp". I got a good deal on new set of +400 3D rod and installed the L-19 bolts. Together with a Cola 4340 crank it went in a 505 short deck piece that I need to get to the Dyno just can't find the time. I have know idea what to expect for strength. Did not like the idea of China forging but..... this one is 14.75:1 cr. graemlins/clonk.gif
I'd say run it and report back. :D

Don't wast your time on the 540cid, go right for the 555cid. That additional bore helps un-shroud the valves and you get better power.

How and the hell will you get that to the ground on the street???? :confused:

If you're putting that much time and $$ into the motor, go with the Dart block. Maskin is not at all confused about his company goals - make the best blocks, heads, manifolds (nom I don't work for them). Dart puts quality and R&D first. WP is headed in all kinds of directions - quality is bound to suffer - just not enough hours in the day or profit in their target market to make quality a priority.

WRT to China, I don't know about their ability to forge cranks, but in some cases they definitely have their metallurgical act together. I collect battle-ready swords - just got a new Paul Chen Katana (made in China). It cuts, sings, and has a balance that is much more satisfying that a custom unit I had made here. The Chen sword was $895. The custom was $3100. I don't know how they did it, but this is one awsome sword.