I can't seem to get this sucker running properly. I've tried bringing out the air and fuel screws all the way OUT and slowly turning them in and cranking between and no fire, I tried starting with them both all the way IN and bringing them out and I still cant get it to start, a couple sputters but no drive. It's a #1405 4brl 600cfm

Phil,

If you gently turn the screws in until they seat, then back them out 1-1/2 turns each it should be close enough.

Have you had the plug wires off recently, or has the distributor been pulled out? It's possible that either your timing is way off, or the firing order got messed up. Have you verified that you are getting spark?

Mike

Try this

This tech paper will discuss basic set-up and
tuning of Holley vacuum secondary carbs for optimum street performance and
drivability.


Overview
Holley carbs have been used by hot
rodders for many decades now. Holley offers a very tuneable, modular carb
design, yet it’s surprising how few people understand the basic
tuning principles and procedures for these carbs. This tech paper will
discuss some basic tuning procedures and techniques to help you get your
setup optimized a little better.

Holley carbs have several
operating systems, all of which can be tuned independently. Often, an
improper setup of one system will give false indications of a problem in
another system. Attempting to cure Holley problems by tuning the wrong
system results in a really messed up carb, and a lot of frustration for
tuners and car owners.

Holleys have the following basic operating
systems:

Idle System
Accelerator System
Main Metering
System
Power System
Secondary System

These systems at times
overlap in their operation. Not only does each system need to be properly
tuned, but its timing and “overlap” with other systems is
critical to proper performance.


Tech Tip #1
Before you go
trying to fix all the errors of the previous carb tuner, set your carb up
to the stock Holley spec for your carb List Number (stamped into the front
of the air horn). Holley does a pretty decent job of supplying a
ready-to-run carb, so the jetting, pump cam, shooter sizing, and spring
rates are usually pretty close. This will give you a good baseline
starting point for your tuning process. You can either call your local
Holley distributor for the stock specs on your List Number carb, or go to
this website to check out the baseline
configuration:
http://www.mortec.com/carbs.htm

Tech Tip
#2
When buying tuning parts for your Holley you have two
choices:
Obviously, Holley offers original parts at the Holley price.
I highly recommend original Holley rebuild kits, gaskets, and power
valves. BG, or Barry Grant, also makes parts for Holleys, and offers them
at a fraction of the Holley price. BG is a great source for items such as
the accelerator pump cam kits.

Tech Tip #3
Virtually all
musclecars (with a only a few notable exceptions) came from the factory
with a dual plane intake manifold, also known as a
“180-degree” manifold. A dual plane intake is characterized by
having two separate sides (right and left) which feed two different
“levels” inside the manifold. Half of the cylinders are
“fed” from the one level, and the other half are
“fed” from the second level. A dual plane manifold promotes
higher intake velocity at lower rpm, improving low-end torque and low-end
throttle response. A dual plane manifold also promotes very good vacuum
at idle and at low speed.

At very high rpm, a dual plane manifold
will loose some efficiency. For this reason, there are single plane
manifolds available. Known also as “360-degree” manifolds,
the single plane manifolds typically have large intake runners and a
large, open plenum under the carb. Very good for high-rpm use, these
manifolds can be a real challenge to tune for low-end, street rpm use. A
single plane manifold will typically significantly reduce vacuum, and this
causes several problems.

Intake vacuum is used by the carb as a
“signal” for many different events to occur. As vacuum is
reduced, caused by large plenum intakes and large overlap cams, the vacuum
“range” becomes much more narrow. The carb tuner must make
the various events occur within this narrow tuning range, while hitting a
much more narrow “tolerance” for overlapping events to occur.
Typically, a large-plenum intake will require richer main jetting and a
richer pump shot to avoid a lean stumble hesitation upon initial
acceleration. The idle transition may even require extensive recalibration
of the idle restrictors – not an operation for the
do-it-yourselfer.

My recommendation: don’t use a single
plane intake on a street driven car unless you have a lot of cubic inches
and you’re willing to put in a lot of time tuning the idle
transition. If you’re experiencing an off-idle stumble on a car
with a single plane manifold, your problem may be in the manifold and not
with the carb. Consider spending the $$ for a dual plane intake and saving
yourself some frustration.

Tech Tip #4
Which way to tune the
accelerator pump – richer or leaner?
Hesitation, stumble, or
backfire is usually indicative of a lean condition.
“Lazy
throttle” is usually indicative of a rich condition.
A rich
condition may also be accompanied by a small puff of black smoke upon
initial acceleration.

Tech Tip #5
When removing the float bowl,
pull one of the lower float bolt screws first. Place a small container,
such as the plastic cap off of a spray paint can, under the float bowl,
and catch the fuel as it drains out. When you put it all back together,
you can use a small kitchen funnel (just don’t tell your wife about
it) to pour the drained fuel back into the bowl by dumping the fuel down
the bowl vent tube (the tube sticking up right at the choke).

Tech
Tip #6
When using a Holley on a car with a bumpy cam, it is often
necessary to screw the idle speed screw in far enough that the ported
vacuum slot in the throttle bore is uncovered, producing significant
ported vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance at idle. When the engine
is rev’ed up, the vacuum source advances the timing, as it should.
When the throttle is closed, the rpm will very gradually bleed down as
vacuum advance gradually fades: the engine will not settle down
immediately to the correct idle speed. To eliminate this problem, you can
adjust the secondary opening screw to allow the secondary throttle plates
to be cracked open a little more than the spec requirement. This will
bleed a little air through the secondaries at idle, increasing idle speed
and allowing the primaries to be closed down to correct the ported vacuum
problem.

Tools and Equipment Required
As a minimum, you will
need the following tools:

1. Vacuum Gauge
2. Small cup to
drain fuel into
3. Screwdrivers
4. Box end wrenches
5. Spark
plug removal tools
6. Rags


Procedure
Here is my
recommended sequence and procedure for doing a basic Holley
set-up:

1. Set the float level.
You’ll be amazed how many
people try tuning a Holley without ever checking the float level. An
incorrect float level can give you all kinds of symptoms and problems, so
get this one set right off the bat. Most Holleys have a sight plug on the
side of the float bowls, and have externally adjustable floats. With the
engine HOT and running (float level will change with engine temperature
– make sure you’re completely warmed up before setting this),
put a rag under the sight plug area and pull the plug. Adjust the float
level until fuel just barely starts to dribble out of the plug, then lower
it until the dribble barely stops. The slotted screw in the center of the
adjustment is the locking feature – loosen it and turn the hex nut
CW to lower the float level, CCW to raise it.

2. Make sure your
Power Valve is in the ballpark.
Most “stock” Holleys come
with a power valve in the 6.5” range. This means that the power
valve will open and start dumping fuel into the discharge when manifold
vacuum hits 6.5” Hg (Mercury) of vacuum. A lot of cars with big
overlap cams, single plane manifolds, or operating at high altitude will
not pull 6.5” vacuum with the transmission in “drive.”
This means that the power valve is flooding the engine with fuel at idle,
and you’ll never get the tuning right unless you fix it.

Hook
up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold or to one of the vacuum ports at
the base of the carb. With the transmission in “drive” (or in
neutral on a manual car), note the vacuum reading. Your power valve
should be rated at about 2” below the actual vacuum reading. On a
car running at 6” of vacuum in drive, you will need a 4.5 or a 3.5
power valve.

3. Now get the main metering circuit in the
ballpark.
Now that your power valve is not flooding you out, you can
get the main metering jets tuned in. If your main metering circuit is
either too lean or too rich, you will not be able to properly set up the
accelerator pump circuit. Trying to fix a bog on acceleration with pump
cams and discharge nozzles when the main metering is off is like chasing
your tail. The main metering system also affect the idle circuit, so you
need to get the main jets in line before going on to the other tuning
parameters.

Pop a new set of spark plugs in the engine (don’t
use the new Platinum or other exotic metal plugs- they won’t read
right). Now take the car out for a drive around a few blocks. Get it up
to steady-state cruise rpm, and make a few moderate accelerations. Pull
the car back into the garage, allowing it to idle as little as possible.
Shut it down and pull a few of the plugs. The plugs should have a very
light, off-white or tan color around the nose of the insulator. If
you’re pure white (completely clean), you’re probably running
too lean. If you’re picking up black soot, you’re too rich.
Raise or lower primary jet sizes by 2 sizes at a time and repeat this test
until your plugs are showing the correct color.

4. Tweak your idle
screws.
Screw both of the screws in until they gently bottom out, and
turn them both out 1-1/4 turns. This is a good starting point. With a
tach on the engine to monitor rpm, start the engine and turn the screws ½
turn at a time, turning both screws the same amount, until the best rpm
reading is observed. Then turn them in 1/8 to ¼ turn to lean it out just
a tad. Once set, I like to shut the engine off and turn both of the
screws all the way in, counting the turns, until they gently bottom out
again. Just to make sure they’re both set the same. Then back them
out to the setting you had.

5. You’re finally ready to
fine-tune the accelerator pump circuit.
Many people start by tuning
this, and can never get the stumble tuned out of the car. By making sure
that the other systems are approximately right, you can now set this
system up so that it’s not trying to compensate for other
deficiencies.

There are two tuning parameters to the accelerator
pump circuit: Pump Cam and Discharge Nozzle.

The pump cam, a
little plastic, color-coded part located on the throttle shaft with a
single screw, will determine the total volume of the pump shot.


The discharge nozzle, or “shooter,” is available in
different sizes, and determines the rate of discharge. In other words, it
is possible to install a large-volume pump cam, and have a small-diameter
“shooter” which “bleeds” the total volume in over
a longer duration. Or you can install a big “shooter” which
allows the entire pump shot to be dumped in almost immediately.


There is no real scientific way of coming up with the exact
correct combination for these parts. As a rule, of the car stumbles,
backfires, or hesitates on initial throttle opening, try a larger shooter
(the size is stamped on the body, and they’re available in
.001” increments). If the car has a “lazy throttle,”
indicative of a rich condition, try a smaller pump cam at first.

6.
The last step in the initial tuning process is to set the secondary
opening rate.
The secondary opening rate is determined by the spring
in the secondary diaphragm. A soft spring will allow the secondaries to
open sooner. Install softer springs until the car develops a slight
stumble from the opening rate, then go back one spring level. This will
allow the secondaries to open as quick as possible while avoiding a
stumble.

A common mistake made by “performance” tuners
is to remove the secondary diaphragm check ball. The check ball is
installed in the secondary diaphragm housing, and helps to control the
secondary opening rate. Removal of the ball will result in immediate
opening of the secondaries with very little mass air flow through the
primaries, with a resultant massive stumble upon acceleration.

You
cannot normally get the vacuum secondaries to open by flicking the
throttle and rev’ing the rpm with the car in neutral. This is not a
valid test of the functionality of the secondaries.

7. Now, if you
want to fine-tune the primary jetting, you can do one of three
things:
For maximum horsepower, you will need to run the car through a
measured distance and note its speed at the end of the distance. Using one
of the available performance computers, or running the car at a track, is
best for this. The correct size jets are the jets which give the car the
highest mph at the end of the measured distance (not the shortest elapsed
time). Again, change jet sizes 2 sizes at a time to see if the speed
increases or decreases.

For maximum economy, drop the jet size
until the car develops a slight stumble upon acceleration, then go up two
sizes.

I pulled the driver side plugs and 2 of them were pretty scummy, there new too. Im going to check the passenger side right now and see if there clean or not. I did knock the distributor out of place while doing all this so thats gotta be tinkered with too. So it's 1 1/2 turns out each thats the basic info I really couldnt remember for now. Thanks for all the info Mike and Mike! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

The 1405 is an Edelbrock 600CFM manual choke if I'm not mistaken. The Holley stuff while great info, won't help him. I will agree that you should back out both screws 1-1/2 to 2 turns to start with. If the carb has been sitting it will need to be dis-assembled and cleaned. Those carbs have some very small passages that are open to the air and clog easily. They shouldn't keep it from starting but will make it run erratically.

I will also agree that it sounds like your problems are not really all carb. As mentioned, double check your ignition setup, wires and timing. They are your more likely culprit from what you describe as your symptoms.

Good luck,

Troy.

Maybe I do need to take appart my carb. It doesnt look like theres much of any fuel getting sucked through the line right around the fuel filter, and the fuel pump is brand new. It won't start at all, I checked all my timing and set the carb air and fuel knobs, checked the spark plugs they seem fine, smell a little like fuel, not sure if thats normal? It started 5 days ago and I drove it around my nieghborhood once I got into the driveway it quit and started again, really weak though.

Phil, have you verified that the plugs are getting fire?

Phil, in addition to the other suggestions, make sure the carb is mounted with a good gasket - a hard or cracked or other gasket issue can cause a vacumn leak that will drive you crazy.

Mike, while that Holley info won't help Phil, that is one beautiful piece of writing on Holley tuning. If that was cribbed from a Holley publication I haven't seen it that I can remember.

Thomas

What kind of fuel pump are you running? A Holley?

That Holley tuning info IS great info...more LARS stuff. 69SSRat, why not give Lars Grimsrud credit for writing that? You got that off and and copied and pasted fromwww.corvettefaq.com (http://www.corvettefaq.com) - same place any one can get it, and the same place you got that timing article off of..I dont think he minds if you post a link to it, but just posting the whole entire paper with his name (he IS the author) nowhere to be seen is kinda graemlins/clonk.gif .....Especially considering hes a fellow muscle car enthusiast who really enjoys helping people out for practically NO money, and enjoys tuning cars for beer.....

For everyone else- all LARS stuff can be found at www.corvettefaq.com. (http://www.corvettefaq.com.) Its a 'vette site, but as you all know, a lot of the stuff is interchangeable.

Pnutkemist-

Follow the advice for setting up your carb- 1.5 turns out like Unclepennybags said. But if youre not getting gas, there are problems elsewhere...Again, are you using a Mechanical Holley fuel pump? Number 12-834?

Sounds like your timing is out of whack too. Id set the carb at the baseline setting of 1.5 turns as suggested, and get the timing squared away FIRST. THEN start tuning the carb mixture/idle.

Sounds like I should replace my carb gasket, It didnt look so hot if I remember correctly. A good place to start. And Im sure my timing is way off!

The fuel pump I just put on is just a stock replace from Kragen, Ive tried holleys and had really bad luck with little pieces snapping off or them leaking. Maybe it was the model I tried, it was some $54 triple chrome plated one, I dont have the numbers near me.

As for the plugs getting spark! Im not sure, I pulled them and most of them were clean, cleaned them all off anyways. How can I tell? If they were getting spark it would fire up? :eek:

Well buzzbomb du! look at some other post
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=003050

I have given him credit and don't take likely to that thought I did not right it and have posted his stuff before he is very knowlagable and I am tring to pass on what he sent to me. Some of them,he emailed to me himself! :mad:
As a mater of fact this was off my desk top from an email he sent me this was all that I had of this one!!

I have also Emailed Al about his articals to put in our tech archives!!!

Buzzbomb,
The whole point to this thread is to help a fellow Chevelle guy fix a problem, not carp about who wrote it!

Phil,
There are some great books on Holley Carburetors & Manifolds. The one I have is titled Holley Carburetors & Manifolds, BY Mike Urich & Bill Fisher. HPBooks-48. It has how they work, basic principles, air & fuel requirements, selection & sizing, installation directions,
repair & assembly,economy and performance tuning.
It's a great book that has served me well over the years.


Rocky

Phil- in the same vein, you can get the HP books Carter Carburetors. Its basically the same carb. BUT- Edelbrock has a tuning manual for their carbs on their site too, might want to take a look at it. Go to www.edelbrock.com (http://www.edelbrock.com) , THEN to Automotive (obviously), THEN to carburetors (side menu), THEN to Edelbrock EPS Owners Manual. That should be really all you need. AT LEAST for the carb end. You really ought to get your timing set first..BUt at least you can get the car running (hopefully) to where you can do that, with that Ebrock manual.

At least that Holley pump ISNT the problem. Dont ask me how I know they are "problematic" :mad: . If that keeps up with the pump, Heck take it back and get another. What harm is there in that, other than a 25 cent gasket, maybe?

Originally posted by rocks66ss:
Buzzbomb,
The whole point to this thread is to help a fellow Chevelle guy fix a problem, not carp about who wrote it!

Phil,
There are some great books on Holley Carburetors & Manifolds. The one I have is titled Holley Carburetors & Manifolds, BY Mike Urich & Bill Fisher. HPBooks-48. It has how they work, basic principles, air & fuel requirements, selection & sizing, installation directions,
repair & assembly,economy and performance tuning.
It's a great book that has served me well over the years.
Rocky Well, Im going to start copying MartinSr's stuff and pasting it elsewhere. Then again, I like MartinSr and all the help he gives hobbyists for FREE- so I dont think so. I'll wait for his book, so he can get all the credit he deserves for his selfless help smile.gif . I also like this board, and IF I post elsewhere about someting Ive seen here, I link them to TC and tell people to search the body shop instead of posting his replies like I wrote them. Im not going to chase down, nor search each and every post here at TC...I saw this post, AND that timing post, and Lars wasnt mentioned anywhere, but his papers were posted. I posted what I did, because Bomber67 posted what he did. Just giving credit where its due, thats all! Im thinking thats not a CRIME, but thats just me. If you can credit Lars in one post where you paste his stuff, why not all of them? How hard is

"Thanks to Lars Grimsrud, Corvetteforum.com:"

As I saw in the thread you posted PEOPLE THOUGHT YOU WROTE ALL THAT, JUST LIKE THIS ONE. Until of course you told them you DIDNT.

Im also thinking AL wants to put original Team Chevelle stuff in his archives- LIKE MartinSr stuff (of course) OR Carb tests that were done by UnclePennybags, stuff like that- etc... NOt info thats available elsewhere for download (eventhough its SUPER GOOD stuff)....

http://www.corvettefaq.com/redir.asp?site=25

ANYWAY....

Rocky,

Im not carping. If your'e trying to help Phil, you didnt read his post very well, nor a few that followed it. He has an Edelbrock Carb, NOT a Holley!

Buzzbomb
You miss the hole point I myself have a hard time typing what the brain thinks sometime but
Al was told who wrote these and the point was to have AL email Lars to see about a permenent post because his info explaines in layman terms alot of things that others such as myself can make things come together.I have delt with alot of info over the years and had a real good understanding of things but he shed new light on the subject that others have not.

As for it not being a holley well!!! carb's are basicly the same i was hoping some of the basic tip in this would give the guy some basic's and knowlege of what was going on.

I bought a 750hp and talked to everyone about 4corner idle had many problems until Lars explained how to set the idle.

It worked and it was from a BG artical he wrote

So lighten up DUDE other post have his name on them.

Buzz, thanks bunches for those terrific links! Lars is the man! What I like best about Lars' writing is that he adheres to the Strunk & White school of writing - short, sweet, and very much to the point. I'm no dummy and I'm a proliferic reader - but I've always thought that many of the Holley carb books scared away more would be self-tuners than they turned on. Not so with Lars' instructions.

The information and links contained in this post are all worthwhile - the most amazing part about all the Holley info in this post is that the topic starter doesn't even have a Holley carb!!! In this case the misdirection of topic reponders opened up some great material.

The thing about cribbed notes goes beyond school rules, the sharing of different resource sites is part of what the internet is all about.

Thomas

Originally posted by Bomber '67:
Buzz, thanks bunches for those terrific links! Lars is the man! What I like best about Lars' writing is that he adheres to the Strunk & White school of writing - short, sweet, and very much to the point. I'm no dummy and I'm a proliferic reader - but I've always thought that many of the Holley carb books scared away more would be self-tuners than they turned on. Not so with Lars' instructions.

The information and links contained in this post are all worthwhile - the most amazing part about all the Holley info in this post is that the topic starter doesn't even have a Holley carb!!! In this case the misdirection of topic reponders opened up some great material.

The thing about cribbed notes goes beyond school rules, the sharing of different resource sites is part of what the internet is all about.

Thomas Your'e Welcome, Bomber67! If you havent already (anybody), take a look at his Hi-Performance fuel filter/line plans out of an '85? 'Vette filter and line you can get at PEP Boys. ITS GREAT, as his TIming Paper....Kind of an unconventional way of setting timing, but makes sense if you think about it. Dont worry about the .doc stuff- they are clean downloads.

His stuff, particularly his Qjet stuff, if you ever run one or HAVE run one- is REALLY the bomb. I THINK its 15 pages :eek: or so (havent looked at it in a while). And the chart he has for rods/jet changes- SHEEESH. The only other place I have seen a chart that comprehensive as his, or a QJET primer as good as his, is in the Doug Roe book- a book that costs $15. THAT is why I made the statement about giving Lars credit...not to make someone look like a schmuck, or rattle their cage. Since his info is so good, and FREE, Geez, why not do the guy a favor and at least give him some credit for it! IMHO, thats the least you can do- but thats just the way I would do it, I guess.

I dont have to lighten up smile.gif . Its not a big deal, and so what if "OTHER" posts have his name on them? I read THIS POST, DIDNT SEE Lars name, and just so happened to KNOW he WROTE all that. I was just pointing that out to the others who read through all that GREAT Holley stuff and may not know who actually wrote it. Some may not care who wrote it, but others, like Bomber67, seem to care, and see the SUPER resource his other stuff can be....

And Phil,

Go to Edelbrock and download that AFB carb manual ! Its at LEAST as big as Lars' Holley paper, probably bigger, and just what you need to get your carb set up.

THAT is why I made the statement about giving Lars credit...not to make someone look like a schmuck, or rattle their cage. Since his info is so good, and FREE, Geez, why not do the guy a favor and at least give him some credit for it! IMHO, thats the least you can do- but thats just the way I would do it, I guess.


Well so much for this place I will move on and work on my own car I see tring to give some help is not for me.Even though I have been here 3to4 yrs this or some people are not for me.

SEE YA CB04 graemlins/waving.gif

Originally posted by 69SSRat:
The only other place I have seen a chart that comprehensive as his, or a QJET primer as good as his, is in the Doug Roe book- a book that costs $15. THAT is why I made the statement about giving Lars credit...not to make someone look like a schmuck, or rattle their cage. Since his info is so good, and FREE, Geez, why not do the guy a favor and at least give him some credit for it! IMHO, thats the least you can do- but thats just the way I would do it, I guess.


Well so much for this place I will move on and work on my own car I see tring to give some help is not for me.Even though I have been here 3to4 yrs this or some people are not for me.

SEE YA CB04 graemlins/waving.gif " not to make someone look like a schmuck, or rattle their cage."

First, get the quote right.

Secondly, if something as trivial as that runs you off of one of the greatest automotive sites on the internet, well, maybe You should lighten up like you suggested I do... :rolleyes:

graemlins/waving.gif

I replaced my carb gasket, also read up on all the information edelbrock has on my 1405, pretty good stuff. I cleaned out the carb and replaced the gasket, put it back on, and set everything the way it should be. While trying to start it up it started getting a really weak cranking, still got about 10-11 volts, which is what I usually have. But after a few seconds I got the old sound of clicking, which is usually the starter? The starter is about 5 months old, maybe through all the crap Ive put it through its gone to hell on me? Also this new stock fuel pump seems like it isnt pushing my fuel. Ah, MAN.

Well one thing at a time! Let me know how this stuff sounds, thanks for the info so far everyone
graemlins/hurray.gif graemlins/boring.gif

Don't fret Phil, there is always hope! It sounds like you've just drained your battery with all the cranking you've been going through trying to get it to run. Throw it on the charger for a few hours, and go back to it! As far as checking spark goes, I usually use a plug I have laying around, hook it up to one of the wires (I use #1, but it makes no difference) ground it to the chassis, and have someone turn it over a few times. You should have a very pronounced spark, and if not it could be your module, coil, lack of power to the distributor, or something tune-up related. I noticed you have an accell hei, I had one of their supercoils on my suburban, and it died about 2 weeks ago. Piece of crap only lasted about 8 months. The stocker went back in. If you have pulled the distributor recently, it could be in 180, or your timing could be way off too.
Best of Luck

I just realized you said your fuel pump didn't look like it was pushing any fuel. Assuming its installed correctly, and operational, I would venture a guess that you didn't prime the carb?!?! If this is the case, it's definitely gonna give you grief. Prime that puppy, and fill up them float boals and let us know how she flys.

Yeah I primed the carb and filled up the bowls. And the fuel pump I know it went in right, there arent that many ways to mess it up, it sealed properly and the arm went properly under that little cam rod in the engine. The last time it ran , last week. It really sounded like the timing was off an insane ammount! But the distributor hasnt come out so its strange, but I know it's off! Everything is off :eek: Im going to charge my battery and check my starter, make sure my powers ok for starters

have you checked to make sure your wires are set up for HEI and not for the old points-style distributor? just a thought, they are different.

You know im not sure, when I got the new ACCELL I got all new accell super stock cables as well. Whats different, the wire sizes? Or the firing order? With HEI...

Originally posted by pnutkemist:
You know im not sure, when I got the new ACCELL I got all new accell super stock cables as well. Whats different, the wire sizes? Or the firing order? With HEI... For HEI, the wire ends to the dist are more like a wire end for a spark plug. For points, it fits IN the cap itself. If thats the case, no wonder the thing isnt running or cranking right- thats a great suggestion and one you should look at. Id bet the SUSTO wires you bought are for NON hei. If so, take them back and get a universal set, and terminate them yourself.. Firing order doesnt change with a new distributor.

http://macc.chevelles.net/images/dist1.jpg

is how hei wires should go. i think on a points style distributor the #1 wire is more to right (looking from the front of the car towards the firewall).