Well seeing how i can't decide, i'll go with the most votes....currently i have a 71 chevelle ss with a 540ci, 690hp at the crank and 656lbs torque,3906lbs total weight. 373 gears built turbo 400, and rear. the motor was built by SSRE almost 2 years ago and runs GREAT..well my buddy JOHN keeps buging me to put the fogger system that has been in my closet for 1 yr on the car and lets try it..well i'm tempted but---- how fast do i want to go, the car ran 6.88 in the 1/8th at 101.12 mph ( calc's to a 10:80 1/4) this is a street car looks stock but again i dont know YOU GUYS DECIDE do i fog & flog the bitch or just stay fat and happy?????? friday is the deadline, track rental in March so i need to either get ready or not..thanks for your input graemlins/clonk.gif

:D

[SLAP]

That was for asking. You KNOW the answer! It's like asking "Ummm guys... I got this naked supermodel in my room... ummm, should I do 'er?"

:rolleyes:

Leave it as is and sell me the fogger!!!!!!!!!! Are you hooking now? I figure a fogger is good for 200 hp at the least.........could open up a can of worms. A really cool can of worms.

No NO NO, there could be, uh, a product defect in the system and you should lend it out to someone to see if it works correctly, like me.

Have you ever ran the car in the 1/4 mile? How much tuning have you done thus far? 690 hp @ 3900 lbs should put the car in the low, low 10's at 132 mph if the combination is optimized.

I would much rather see you tune the combination and make it run to it's potential, then put the fogger on.

Is your converter set up for N/A use, or is it a n2o tight converter? If you have a N/A converter, you'll likely drive through it if you hit it with a decent shot on the fogger...and run out of rpm at the finish line assuming 1/4 mile.

TRUST ME FOGG IT FOG IT FOG IT that is from all three nitrious users i know

Pill it 'til you kill it!

I'm with Todd,,,,tune, then FOG it

i hate nitrous, n/a all the way!

10's are so much more bitchin all motor, anyone can put nitrous on a car and make some numbers, but it loses its coolness because ANYONE can do it..

Originally posted by Chirp08:


10's are so much more bitchin all motor, anyone can put nitrous on a car and make some numbers, but it loses its coolness because ANYONE can do it.. You're right,but that makes a more tempermental street car.IMO.

a true mechanic can make a car fast and if its tempermental so what, a true car guy loves to tinker till it purrs, the bottle is for people with no mechanic skills but a fat wallet.
i wish they would ban it from all forms of racing. but i know i'm in the minority and so are my friends but we have all swore off the bottle and build motors instead, and yes they are a bear to get to run right, but what else you gonna talk about with the guys in the garage, how hard it was to get the bottle filled on a saturday night for a run against a mechanic's car that's ready any time?
i'm sorry if i've made anyone mad or hurt their feelings but i'm very old school and my motto has always been "bottles are for babies, motors are for mechanics" just my opinion and we're each entitled to our own.

mechcanic427, what's your take on the man who installs a supercharger?

spray it lightly.

I agree with the guys above. A bottle street car can be very tame and nice to drive daily and yet run like hell at the track or street. I get 17 MPG in the city and LOVE the elec choke on 10 deg mornings, have a car that doesn't lope at all and the holley blue is louder than the exhaust. Yep it's slow on motor 12.6 @ 109, but twist the knob and flip a switch and 10.98 @ 124 can be had instantly. To me that's worth filling bottles, plus i do it in my own garage smile.gif

junkyard dawg, i say go for it . it's a mechanical piece that will add power for the life of the engine, it takes tuning to get it right. i like long endurance runs (silver state classic and such) as a ture determenation of a mechanic's ability. i wish that all these magazine tests of hot street cars would include a 100 mile test of street driving first before the drag tests. i know an all out drag car is hard to build and get to hookup and run right so kudos to those that can do it. gotta go to work now.

Originally posted by Junkyard Dawg:
mechcanic427, what's your take on the man who installs a supercharger? I bet I know. But who cares? :rolleyes:

Since this pot hasn't been stirred in a while I'll take a turn on the spoon... Anyone who thinks it's "easy" to make real power with a "power adder" has never tried it.

If you are worried about "bottles are for babies", don't. It already runs 6.80's on the motor, it should run low 6's, low 10's (or better) with a little spray, IF you can stick it. Besides, it's your car, just be sure it is set up right. It would be a shame to lean it out and burn it up!

The only down side to using a fogger is on a light hit the jets at each cylinder are very small and from what i hear, clog easily and can lead to burned pistons. Most first time nitrous users prefer plate systems to start out on. Much easier to do small hits with a plate. Lots to learn about nitrous to make it work well also. At 3900+ pounds it's not going to run low tens on a 10 1/2 - 1 motor and anyone who thinks it will, hasn't tried it. Take 500 lbs. off and it would maybe run low tens but not at your weight.

Originally posted by Harold Sutton:
At 3900+ pounds it's not going to run low tens on a 10 1/2 - 1 motor and anyone who thinks it will, hasn't tried it. Take 500 lbs. off and it would maybe run low tens but not at your weight. I'll just have to disagree on that one. This isn't rocket science. It takes a certain amount of HP/TQ to move a certain weight 1320' at a specific mph. Let's remember, he's not running a little 396, or a 427, a 454, or even a 496...he's got a large 540 in there making a claimed 690 hp and 656 ft/lbs of torque. This thing better run mid/low 10's or I'd say he got ripped off with that motor's power number claims, or the cars combination is very much mismatched.

I've run as quick as 10.40's @ 127 mph at 3600 lbs with 126 LESS cubic inches...that's 414 total cubic inches making 418 HP at the rear wheels which works out to approx 580 hp at the flywheel. This is a simple 10.5 to 1 motor running on 93 octane pump fuel. He's 300 lbs heavier, has 126 more cubic inches, and makes 110 more HP and about 200 more ft/lbs of torque than mine (mine was 360 ft/lbs at the wheels).

Do the math, but that tells me if his converter is set up for N/A and the parts are matched, that car has the potential to easily run low, low 10's. Now if he's got a tight nitrous converter or a cheap off the shelf converter, then I'd agree he'll never see low 10's N/A.

Having already run low 10s i can tell you in average air it isn't going to happen with a 10.5 compression motor and 3900 pounds on a footbrake. That extra 300 pounds is a great big difference from even 3600 pounds. His car is likely going to be 4 tenths off your 10.40. By the way i bet this was your cars best, right? My sons 481" ran a best of 9.98 @ 3540 lbs. in very good air, (180 ft D.A.), for here. Mainly ran 10.0 - 10 teens. This motor has 12.9 compression and gave the much larger pump gas motors fits. If i'm not mistaken your strips also have very good climatic conditions. If you want your feelings hurt come run it at here at Tulsa in the summer and see your 10.40 turn into a 10.90.

Originally posted by Harold Sutton:
Having already run low 10s i can tell you in average air it isn't going to happen with a 10.5 compression motor and 3900 pounds on a footbrake. That extra 300 pounds is a great big difference from even 3600 pounds. His car is likely going to be 4 tenths off your 10.40. By the way i bet this was your cars best, right? My sons 481" ran a best of 9.98 @ 3540 lbs. in very good air, (180 ft D.A.), for here. Mainly ran 10.0 - 10 teens. This motor has 12.9 compression and gave the much larger pump gas motors fits. If i'm not mistaken your strips also have very good climatic conditions. If you want your feelings hurt come run it at here at Tulsa in the summer and see your 10.40 turn into a 10.90. Not to beat my chest but the times in my signature are from a 10.37:1 N/A 460 in my 66 with a race weight of 3,760lbs in 1,700' DA as measured by my Performaire Eclipse weather station. I agree with Todd, this guy should be seeing better ET (and MPH) from the engine he's currently running assuming the rest of the driveline/chassis are up to snuff and the dyno #'s are real. Living in Atlanta I know a little about hot/humid air, too. The DA here is normally 3,000' or more for most of the race season.

HEY GUYS THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUT AND FOR THE (SLAP) I WOULD HAVE TO SAY THAT I NEED A LITTLE MORE TUNING IN THE SUSPENSION.I HAVE METCO ADJ UPPER CONTROL ARMS, Q-AI 12 POINT ADJ SHOCKS SET ON 4 DRIVER 6 PASS SIDE, PASS SIDE AIRLIFT AIR BAG, AND NEG 3 1/2 DEGREES ON THE DRIVE SHAFT, 60 FOOT TIMES ARE AT 1.55, I THINK I SHOULD BE AT 1.49 0R SO, BUT LIKE I SAID I THINK I NEED TO TUNE THE REAR FIRST. THE TIMES ARE FROM FLASHING THE CONVERTER FROM 1300RPM'S, THE CONVERTER IS A CONTINENTAL 3200 STALL, I CHANGED IT FROM THE 4000 FOR BETTER STREET USE, THE 6:80 1/8TH MILE WAS WITH 4.11'S BUT NOW I HAVE 3.73'S. LIKE I SAID BEFORE I THINK THE CAR IS FAST ENOUGH FOR THE STREET BUT THE QUESTION IN THE BACK OF THE MIND IS ( HOW FAST WOULD IT GO WITH A 150 SHOT,,HUMMMMMMMMMMM, THANKS AGAIN, AND OVERWHELMING 72% SAY FOG-IT!

lou, just a suggestion - maybe you should take your house number off your address or someone will pay you a visit and take your car from you when you aren't home...

Ryan,

That is not his home address, it is his work address.