Hi everyone, got my car together after 7 years of on/off wrenching :eek: Made it to the track and made 3 runs.I didn't really tune it, just got it running good enough to drive around the neighborhood and then had the time to take it to the track. Here's my combo:

1968 ss 396
468" pistons said "L2399" on the crown, small dome/forged.
HEADS: #h3872702- oval port, closed chamber, read somewhere they were 65-66 396/427 99cc :confused: VALVES: 2.19 int. 1.8 exh -no porting or head work far as i know, although I had a valve job done on it.

CAM: Lunati:PER CAM CARD PART #30207
.572IN /.572 EX W/1.7 ROLLER ROCKERS
244 IN/EXH DUR. AT .050, 308 ADVERTISED
EX CLOSE 10ATDC EX OPEN 54BBDC
IN OPEN 14BTDC IN CLOSE 50ABDC
LOBE SEPARATION 110, CENTER LINE 108

WEIND X-CELERATOR SINGLE PLANE
HOLLEY 950 HP- OUT OF THE BOX, Idles best around 1000 in gear. Electric 140 gph pump in rear, braided -8 line to the front/regulator

MSD pro billet dist./ blaster 2 coil, msd wires
3" k&n filter
Dual electric fans, 4 core radiator(brass)
Headers: 17/8" headmen, header glass-pack mufflers(temporary)

Trans: Built th400 w/manual reverse valve body, cheetah shifter. 2200-2500 stall(per trans shop) I might have stalled it higher, but it seems much lower than the 3000 I used to have in the car.
12 Bolt, 4:10 posi w/ diff cover/support

BODY: fiberglass: front bumper, small cowl-21/2"?? hood, fenders, 2 racing seats, 16 gal fuel cell in trunk along w/ battery

SUSP: front, stock springs/ 90/10 shocks
rear, cargo coils, 50/50 shocks, air bags(pass side set at 12psi),SSM uppers and lowers
ralleye wheels all around, 28/10.5/15 MT slicks, old bf radials in front.

2 BEST(OF 3) TIME SLIPS
60'---1.845 1.843
330---5.264 5.239
1/8---8.116 8.079
MPH---86.08 86.48
1000--10.593 10.543
1/4---12.705 12.647
MPH---106.01 106.20

This was at Union Grove, WI at about 9PM in Sept., so it was cool. I saw a video of my runs and I didn't really notice much wheel spin.
I also didn't see as much weight transfer as I would have expected( with the 90/10 shocks) It seemed to launch pretty flat- would front drag springs be helpful?
I think I tried stalling it up to around 3k(didn't know exactly- too excited to notice :D )
no drama on the launch or run. In my opinion though, once I hit 3rd gear and just stayed on the gas, it didn't seem to be picking up as fast as I would like- I think I was shifting at around 5-5500.
Could these heads be a limiting factor for the mid-to- top end of the run? What about the intake? If so, what heads/intake would make a difference-and how much quicker could I expect to go?
I know I have to lower tire pressure in the slicks, when I went back to staging lanes they were about 15psi, what would be a good setting?
If someone could do a desktop dyno maybe I could fine tune the shift points or launch rpm.
Would anyone recommend a different torque conv., and if so, what stall?
Can anyone guess as to how much this set-up weighs? I haven't had a chance to weigh it. (i'm about 185)
Should I go to bigger headers?
I'm also contemplating getting a nitrous kit for the car-most likely a 100-150 shot- thats actually why I went back to the 4 bbl, I built the engine for a weind tunnel-ram w/ 2 450 holleys but din't want to mess w/dual nitrous set-up.
SORRY this is so long but I just wanted to see what others thought. Is this all i can expect from this combo(i'm not complaining graemlins/thumbsup.gif )or are there some things others can suggest that might make it go faster or work more efficently together? I would like to be in the 11's on motor- knowing that I could spray my way into the 10's if I wanted to graemlins/clonk.gif

Once again, sorry for the length but I need advice and maybe some food for thought to get me trough the winter. THANKS TO ANYONE IN ADVANCE

GEORGE graemlins/waving.gif

Wow! that combo is VERY close to mine. Same heads, similar cam and compression and incrementals. 1.84 60ft, my 330ft was 5.20, then 7.99 at 89mph. This was on a 95 degree humid day. I haven't got a chance to go since it cooled down. Congrats on not breaking anything your first trip to the track and getting some good numbers. There are alot more experienced people than me but I think you need more stall. I think your headers are fine. Dual plane intake would probably be better but not sure it would make more than a tenth or so difference. Good luck!

I would lose the single plane intake, Most of us use the Edelbrock RPM or a similiar dual plane intake. 3500 stall if it sees much time on the street,,,good converter-ATI,Coan,BTE,Continental. Headers are fine. Timing set at 15-20 initial with 36-38 total as soon as you can bring it in without detonation. I think timing and intake alone will get you some rise in the front end,then you can start tuning the suspension.

Too much cam for the converter. I think something in the 3500 range is needed. Also, shifting at 5000 - 5500 is dropping you out of the power band of the cam. That motor will need to shifted at 6500. Keep the intake. For your combo, you have plenty of compression and are running a large enough cam that power below 2000 - 2500 is just not going to happen. Also, make sure the jetting is fat enough up top. One other thing, those header glasspacks, although loud are probably only a 2" core muffler. They could actually be choking your top end by 100HP.

What was the final compression ratio? For the sake of clarity, the heads were opened up for the big valves? 2.06, 1.72 are stock for those heads.

You said it PURS, I'm glad I didn't break anything either-especially with slicks. I don't know what the HP TRQ #'s are(desk-top dyno anyone :confused: ) but I believe someone once said that with these heads and piston, the comp. is about 10.5:1. At what rpm does this engine start making its peak #'s? that could isolate the best shift point, although 6500 sounds like it would be right. Does everyone think these heads are adequate? would it be worth getting them ported/polished? and if so, how much do you think it would be worth?, or would new heads be better-and by how much over the old ones?
Per Holley tech, the carb is jetted w/#78 front/rear & power valves: high flow # 6.5, too rich or too lean- I don't know, I didn't have time to check the pugs that night.
I think we're all in agreement that I need a higher stall- What size? 11", 10"?I'll work on getting one.
Timing I'll set next year, thanks for the recomendation-RAPID ROBERT
WOW! GRN69CHV, I would have never thought about those header glasspacks being so restrictive- you make a good point, it makes total sense and could explain why it felt a little flat on the top end.I have to check the dia. but I'm angry at myself that I didn't even think of that restriction-I even ground down the transition at the head ports(on the headers)-to avoid any restriction-and then I choke it at the collector! :mad:
What would be the best exhaust to run? I've read about the crossovers and things. I read you run 3" into mufflers and then 2.5" out from there, or would 3" or more all around be best? any experiences?
If I end up shifting at 6500, would a valve-train stud girdle be a good idea?
Would front drag-springs be worth anything?
I know I got a lot of questions but you guy's have already helped me out alot with this advice-this gives me ideas on what to save my money for over winter. Can anyone answer the rest of my questions? the puzzle is almost complete-for now.

THANKS AGAIN!, George graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I would think a good 10" converter would work well. Something around 3000 RPM stall. I only run 2-1/2" all the way back, but a lot of guys run 3" back to the mufflers with 2-1/2" tails. Or you can get a 3" full system reasonable now.

Seems though, you have a decent combo already in the works.

i don't think a 244@.050 cam in a 468 needs to be shifted at 6500rpms. i only shifted my 454 at 6200rpms and i had a 260/270@.050 cam with a larger single plane intake 2" headers and 3 1/2" exhaust. i tried shifting that thing everywhere from 5550 to 7000 and it went the fastest times at 6200. personally i run about 18-20psi in my slicks, 28x9 on an 8" rim. also, i just stall mine up to around 1500 then mash it off the last yellow, that has always made my car launch harder and quicker. when you bring it all the way up on the footbrake as high as it will go you're loading the suspension, which i've always found hurts the launch. i'd recommend losing the glasspacks too, unless they're of the straight through design like a dynomax bullet muffler is.