Breaking in this particular cam... [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Breaking in this particular cam...


OUChevelleSS
Feb 8th, 05, 7:53 PM
I'm putting the 402A3 Lunati solid cam in my 454. It will be coated with a certain coding my machinist likes to use (nitride coating?), that supposedly makes the cam very durable and everything, and 'never wear down'. Now I would better believe it will slow wear rather than make it never wear down, but anyway...I am planning to use the moly lube and GM EOS, during break-in, and do the procedure correctly (the whole 2000RPMs for 15 minutes thing..).

I have Brodix heads and I had them put in the springs that Lunati reccomends for the cam. It has inner and outer springs. So, will I need to take the springs apart and only do outers on break-in, or will leaving them together be okay, or what?

Kind of long post to ask such a simple question...but I appreciate the advice, thanks guys.

77 cruiser
Feb 8th, 05, 8:22 PM
I'll say why chance it pull the inners out & break it with a lot less chance for any problems.

TD509EFI
Feb 8th, 05, 8:28 PM
If your machinist used the recommended Lunati springs, it should be 73121's, dual with damper. Seated pressures are 140, with 400 at max recommended lift of .700". Most cam companies would tell you to remove the inners for break in with those pressures. I'd be interested to hear from others who have more experience with solid flat tappet cams than I do though.

John

BillK
Feb 8th, 05, 8:32 PM
With all the cam problems that guys have been having, I have been telling my customers that if they are using a double spring, take the inners ou for break in. Why take a chance.

Mike Feudo
Feb 8th, 05, 8:43 PM
Think about taking out the inners to break it in. We are building a 427 with a Lunati cam. The recommended springs are just too much for a car that idles a lot. We used the Crane spring made for street cars. It may cut the RPM range some but the whole mess will live a lot longer.