So the time has come for me to take the next step and get rid of my whimpy comp cam(XE262H-4, 218/224 @.05, .5/.5lift w/ 1.6 rockers, 114lsa/110cl) and get a real cam. The car weighs 3700lbs w/ me in it, I am looking for as much power as this thing will handle and is capable over without over reving the bottom end. Would like to try a Solid/Mechanical Flat Tappet assuming it'd be better than a hyd tappet.

(Local camgrinding place thinks I'd not gain anything and maybe lose a little low end torque with a solid over what they want to give me: Comp XE274H 230/236, .487/.490 lift on a 112)

Something above .5 lift I think with my 1.6 Ratio Rockers, dual pattern to help the exhaust, on a 112 maybe?. Friends and I were looking at the 401A3LUN (is that an old ultradyne?) 272/282()238/248, 112/108, .485/.503 Lift solid tappet.

Here are my current specs that only attribute to an ET of 13.7 @ 101MPH with a 2.0 60ft. While that was with street tires the setup should have been much faster. It also had only a 2400rpm stall(sorry if it's kinda long)

9000mile Rebuilt SBC 350 non roller,
.030 over; Hypereutectic Flat Top pistons with 4 reliefs yeilding a compression of 10:1 W/ 64cc Chambers; .04 Quench; Stock crank/rods though polished crank and honed rods; Dynamic CR w/ the 262 cam is 8.19 (JUST On the high side for pump gas)

Heads:
Pro Topline Iron Lightning 200cc/64cc
Angle Plugs
Intake Port Test Data @28" of water
.100 | .200 | .300 | .400 | 500 | .600 | .700
68.50 | 134.32 | 191.63 | 235.96 | 260.98 | 268.51 | 278.41

Exhaust Port Test Data @28" of water
.100 | .200 | .300 | .400 | .500 | .600 | .700
56.90 | 100.99 | 156.94 | 176.85 | 186.34 | 190.13 | 194.87

The heads came with the K1 Kit, which I am not sure the springs will hold to a solid, if not any ideas on which to use? Or possibly a rev kit?

1.460" single spring with damper (110lbs. seat pressure
@1.800"/ 275lbs. open pressure @ 1.250"), .550 Max Lift,
Chromemoly Retainers, 7 degree locks.

Comp Magnum 1.6 Ratio Roller Tip Rockers.

The intake is a Holley Stealth Ram,(Fuel injected Tunnel Ram)

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/SR/SR.html

The exhaust is derived from 1 5/8" Hedman Headers, 2 1/2" pipes from the headers into one 3" pipe that runs back to a Flowmaster. With a cutout for the track just after the Y joint.

Th350 Transmission, 3000rpm stall 3.23 Gears in the rear (maybe need something numerically higher?)

What do you guys think? I think I want/need some of Harolds magic!

Thanks for help as always guys!

I don't think even Harold has a cam that's going to knock 1.7 seconds off your e.t.

Well my ET was attributated to way too low a fuel pressure, small stall (that I don't think was working properly in the first place) 2.0 60ft, and spinning for quite a bit each time on the 1-2 shift.

I think it's possible. I've seen 12.3 out of a similar setup with slightly bigger cam, and radials.

Improve your 60 ft (1st step-GET RID OF STREET TIRES!) and get a better convertor to match your "new" cam.

101 mph is not enough mph for a low 12 sec. pass, low 13 high 12 maybe

IMO you just aren't going to hit 11's with that combo with any cam. You need more gear (or more cubic inches) and more converter.

You also want a cam that is somewhat friendly to tune with the EFI.

Unless you want to go to 3.73's-4.10's and a 3500-4000 converter, I'd shoot for 12.5-12.8.

Right now you need a cam that makes best power from 2500-5000/5500. I'd guess you'd be going through the traps around 5000 in third.

I've made 400 HP on the dyno with a cam around 225/235 with a 112 lc with the stealthram with good idle. Going any larger moves the torque curve higher than you can use.

If you want to look at a mild combo that runs look at onovakind's above although he has 4.10's and a good converter, but he has a lockup OD trans to maintain streetability.

I run 11.9's without any special parts in my 3550 car but use 3.73's and a 4000 converter in a car that is not a daily driver anymore.

I ran 12.5's with a car I could drive 1000 miles a day with, but I race every weekend and that is all I care about now.

Hitting 12's is not that hard, hitting 11's takes a lot more.

It is impossible to gauge your performance potential with the problems you have stated.

DO NOT change your cam just yet ...

You Need to do this list first at a minimum..

1. Get some race tires as Chris said
2. Get a set of 3.73's or 3.90's in there.
3. How do you know you have/had a fuel pressure problem? If you really do, fix it. It doesn't sound like you did. 101 mph as others have said is 13.50's to 13.70's.

4. Get a 3000 to 3600 converter - A good Coan, ATI or Trans Specialties converter...Yes you will spend $500+, but you cannot shortcut the converter.

Then and ONLY then can you begin to tune the combination...expect 30 to 50 passes at the track to get a good tune-up

Then If you are still unhappy you have at least realized most of the potential of your current combo and can better gauge what your combo needs in order to satisfy your goals.

Otherwise, you will be chasing your own tail around and around and spending way too much $$ and never really reaching your goals.

Not meant to be a lecture, but it is the truth.. smile.gif

Have you considered a 454 ?? :eek: graemlins/waving.gif

Very good information. The converter I'll be running is matched to a Comp 274 (230/236 on a 112) That I have sitting at home. I never installed it because I thought that it may be too mild, it's a hydro and maybe I should use that?

The converter is one my transmission shop is supplying with a 3000 stall as recommended by the Oregon Camgrinders for that cam. The TH350 was built by a man named Jamie Fox local racer for many years with many credientials here in Vancouver/Portland area. The company they ahd been using for converters had set a few bad ones and one of them I got. So he went out of his way to rebuild the trans again and get me a much better converter. Perhaps I may save up yet on a different one. I was thinking Continental?


Drag Radials are a definate for this spring.

The 112 cam should be pretty tuner friendly. I have a good handle on tuning Eproms.

This isn't a daily driver but I do drive it alot on the street and with 3 gears I thought sticking with my 3.23 would be alright. Maybe compromise with a 3.42 gearset?


MC71454:

When I first started the stealth ram buildup I got a set of used Ford 24lb SVO injectors... and little did I know they needed some cleaning. When I got them flow matched/cleaned... I had to turn my fuel pressure down from 48PSI to get some descent AFR readings at cruise. I then went to the track and turned my 13.7@101.1. Discouraged I performed a complete tune up(plugs/cap/rotor, etc) and checked my fuel pressure and it was at 28psi. 28psi is not enough for good atomization.

I also didn't have a mandrel bent pipe from the Y over the axle, and I do now.


I appricate the kick in the butt! Really, I suppose I've been so frustrated with this setup as the first trip to the track was only a 14.3! So I did drop 6 tenths and I know there is more in there.

Cam related I have seen anyone run a cam as small as I am in the HSR. When I put the HSR on I put the Pro heads on at the same time and the 262 cam was already in there.

Should I install the 230/236 I've got, or just sit on it even yet as I get the last few things squared away with exhaust and putting the trans back in?

TwilightOptics,

There's been a lot posted for you to think about.
When you get ready for a cam, let me know.
I have current, proven cams, like the TF80/TF72-112, 267/275 at .020, 239/247 at .050, .544/.566 lift with 1.6s, and 112 LSA. I also will have new lobes in the next few months, designed to take care of the Xtreme Energy stuff.

Post when you're ready......

UDHarold

I don't see anything wrong with changing cams now --- as long as you KNOW what other changes you MUST make to get into the 11's because a cam by itself won't get you there. You are probably not going to get there with your current gear, with your current stall, or your current tires. But you have to make some engine changes for sure since you are about 10 mph short of getting high 11's.

If you are like me - winter is the time for major projects, and would be a perfect time to tear into the engine, trans and rear end. Would be cool if you could do it all at the same time. (makes it impossible though to figure out which part helped how much though)

PS. I like the looks of Harold's pick.

There are a lot of things to consider as Harold said and Eric makes a good point too about winter project time.

If it were me I would sort out the rest of the car first. But that's just the way I like to do things take a more systematic approach, don't get me wrong it is always an internal argument within me to keep the patience and do things one at a time as I like most others want to go as fast as possible as soon as possible...but having 3 kids and approaching 40 has helped a lot. :D

This is the best place to get some help! Thanks guys.


I guess I was kinda of anxious too because I've got a dyno tune coming up that I've got some great rates on and want to see the most ya know?

Converter is on it's way, full exhaust revamping is in the mail from Summit, and I think I'll look for a set of 3.73 for the backside.

I to feel the winter time is a good time to rip the engine open. I was going to pull the intake to put a lifter valley baffle from Moroso in to try and keep the intake a little cooler and it got me thinking that my cam is kind of dinky.

I guess I like to to things while I have them apart you know?

I'll do some tuning with this and get a wide band o2 feel on the dyno.

I'm on the search for some drag radials/wheels for the track I know that is where a big improvement will be. Trouble is up here the track doesn't open till april to get some tell of whats been improved, and we all like to drive our cars on the nice days!

After the dyno I'll post my numbers and see what you guys think! Dyno is at the end of jan.

Thanks!
-Paul

Time to bring this post back from the dead, since Harolds Phone at Lunati is busy hehe.