I'm ready to install my intake manifold and want to match the ports up to the heads. graemlins/hurray.gif Can someone give me advice on transfering the port outline from the heads to the intake and how to set it up so the intake goes back on in the exact location as when the transfer was done. I understand the porting process for the intake to make the match but tips on the above steps will be appreciated.I'm matching a Victor Rectangular port intake to Merline cast iron Rectangular heads that I have ported. Thanks in advance.

some good info here

http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=018385

Don't use the head use the gasket,that way they both come out the same.I used permanent marker to mark my heads and intake, mount up the gasket with some bolts to the head then scribe the opening onto the ports remove gasket and have some fun grinding.Do the same for the intake,you will need to get a carbide burr for removing alot of material,when using the burr on aluminum spray with wd40 will help.

I undestand that part of it but my main qustion is how do you " Dummy up " the intake to the heads so that after porting they go back in the exact same location?

Actually, I prefer to match port only if the intake port is larger than the cylinder head. And then I make sure that I port into the head far enough to make a gentle blend into the rest of the port.

If you match both the intake and the head to an intake gasket you really have accomplished nothing other than making a bulge in the runner. A bulge will hurt velocity through the port where a small step down into the head may actually help fuel atomization.

If the intake is slightly smaller just leave it alone . . . if the intake is bigger just open up the cylinder head to match only where needed. A small step down from the floor of the intake into the port floor is actually a good thing and can help re-suspend fuel droplets that were bouncing along the floor of the intake.

Here is how I did mine:

1. Find some thin cardboard that is pretty much the same thickness as the gaskets.
2. Trace the outline of the gaskets you are going to use on the cardboard. Not the ports, just the outside. Also trace the two end bolt holes.
3. Punch the 2 bolt holes out slightly smaller than the real intake bolts.
4. Put your dummy gaskets on the heads with the 2 bolts.
5. Use the rounded end of a ball peen hammer and gently tap the cardboard around each of the ports. If you do it right, the ports will be nearly ready to fall out when done.
6. Remove your dummy gasket, and with an exacto or whatever, cut the ports out. Do both heads, mark them side for side.
7. Using the bolts and a very small dab of RTV near the bolt holes, put your dummy gaskets back on. Press em down flat. Let the RTV set up.
8. Using blueing.....or just a blue sharpie, blue up your manifold all around each port.
9. Put RTV in more than a few areas on the flange of the intake manifold and place it on the motor. Use a flashlight to look in the ports to get them lined up as good as you can. Bolt it down.
10. Again, let the RTV set-up for a couple of hours.
11. Remove the manifold by using a putty knife or whatever UNDER your dummy gaskets. They need to remain stuck to the manifold.

Now you can scribe the exact outline of the head ports on the manifold. You will port match to your scribe lines. Grind in about an inch, but taper it so there are no steps. Maybe go farther if it seems like you should.
For alignment when you put the manifold back on, you can just look down the ports with a flashlight.

This is how I matched up a Dart oval intake to Edelbrock Roval ports on my Rat. Came out nearly perfect.

All that said, my engine builder tells me time and time again, if the ports in the manifold are smaller thna the ports in the head....don't bother. He never see's any HP on the dyno from doing this....but I do anyway cause it's sort of fun.

Hope this all made sense.

Ron

Thanks Ron, that was what I was looking for. I understand the issue about not making a bulge btwn the intake and the head. The heads have already been opened up to the gaskets and I'm now ready to work on the intake. Thanks again.

I have set the intake gasket against the manifold and scribed a line with a permanent medium marker (maybe 1/16"?) . Then open the intake ports just to the edge of the line leaving the marker, at least most of it. I think the big thing regarding the intakes is that variance in both casting dimensions and concentricity of the ports from side to side of the manifold. I have a nice carbide burr made for porting aluminum that makes the job go real fast.

use " Persian Blue " transfer dye. I've used a bar of soap or transmission fluid on the carbide cutters