..the metering block for converting a 3310 from the metering plate?
And,by blocking the secondary powervalve,should I start secondary jetting 10 jet sizes more than primaries?
..thanks in advance

I think it's 34-13

If you block the primary PV then you would ideally want them square (I think)

I normally jet 8 sizes bigger, but it really depends on what your engine wants

Thanks Casey graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I converted a 3310 to a secondary metering block, and if I remember correctly the metering block in the kit was NOT drilled and tapped for a PV anyway. If you think about it, does it make sense for a vacuum secondary carb to have a secondary PV? You have to have a pretty big vacuum drop for the secondaries to open anyway. In other words, if the secondaries are open, you might as well have full enrichment. I'm not a carb expert, but I don't think my 650 vacuum secondary that's currently on the car has a secondary PV either.

Mr 4 speed, did you pick up that metering block? Reason I am asking I am thinking about doing the same. Was 34-13 the right part number and what did you end up using for jets?

Thanks

From Holley catalog...pn#34-13 Application: 4160 to 4150 conversion kit. 0-3310 or most any model 4160 with center hung float bowls.

Jerry,yes thats the correct part #
They even offer one for the bright finish models,which I have
I'll probably start jetting at whatever the metering plate is rated at,and go from there.
Looking to tune for some MPH
I haven't bought it yet though.
I'm waiting for some warmer weather and for the track to open smile.gif

on my 3310-2 holley carb i took a metering block off my 800 spreadbore holley carb.......it had no rear power valve........

as far as jeting goes the 72 front are fine for a starting point but if you look at other holleys listed they show jets near 80 on the rear with no power valve.......and with the tunning have been doing to my car so far 73 and 80 jets have provided best mph........with a tall yellow spring

Thanks guys. I bought this 3310-6 last year for a heck of a price and it looks like new. I had it on my 350 for a while and seemed to work ok. I want to use it on my new 400.
I was looking at it closer today and noticed something I don't think is right, maybe you can help me out. The outer holes on the primary side by the choke horn, I think they are called the "air bleeds" hopefully you know what I mean.I believe they are for the idle circuit. It appears they have been drilled out when comparing to any of the others. Is there new fittings that can be installed there. I know some models of carbs have interchangable fittings you can install. Am I screwed with this now or is there a fix?

Dennis,I have a secondary metering block from a 650 spreadbore Holley,it does not have a powervalve as well.
Can I use this on my 3310?
The top of the block has the numbers 62103 8522 8521 stamped on it.

mr 4 speed sure you can theres no reason why it wouldnt work......in fact a friend of mine has a 3310 and we converted it from a 650 spreadbore carb that was laying around. just up the jets to at least to 78 for starting out til you get to the track.......on his carb he was running 82 jets in the rear at the track and was still tunning on the jets.....for more mph on his traps speeds........


there are some differences on the rear metering blocks on the spread bore carbs and others of course.....the double pumper design uses a accelerator pump tube that connects to the main body and block..... there might be alittle filling down in this area to make the block fit flat against the main body........just look at the block (you have extra)as long as it is flat across then your fine if its up alttle high in that area file it down.......then just use the proper gasket......your good to go.......i just have found it cheaper to convert mine and others with other blocks from junk carbs laying around....they are all the basic same design.........think about it..they sell the same block for all the other carbs.......just make sure it sitting flat before you use your gasket to install.....

i have even used the blocks off of 600 carbs from the front to convert as well........


blumont- the air bleeds on top are for the idle circuit and the main circuit.......the smaller holes are for the idle circuit......the bigger holes are for the main circuit...they are to be a different size..........sounds like your are ok.......wouldnt want to mess with them....just blow carb cleaner thru the holes every once so often to keep the carb running smoothly......if they get clogged with dirt or anything it will cause the carb to run rich.......