NEW TO THIS SITE AND THOUGHT YOU CHEVELLE GUYS CAN HELP ME OUT...HERE'S THE RUNDOWN (20 YRS OLD) LIVE IN CENTRAL VALLEY, CA WHERE TEMP. HAS BEEN OVER 100 THE PAST COUPLE OF WEEKS. FATHER AND I INSTALLED A "STOCK" 350 IN MY '64 CHEVELLE 2 DOOR HARDTOP. IT'S A REBUILT '93 SUBURBAN 350 4 BOLT MAIN WITH STOCK PISTONS/CRANK...EDELBROCK PERFORMER CAM, ALUMINUM PERFORMER RPM HEADS...AIR GAP MANIFOLD AND A CARTER 600 CARB. TIMING IS GOOD. BURNS CLEAN ETC...

PROBLEM: COOLING IS NOT UP TO PAR....HAVE A GRIFFIN ALUMINUM 26x19 (21x18 CORE) RADIATOR (2 ROW 1.25" TUBES)..HIGH FLOW PUMP, 160 SHAW HI FLOW T-STAT AND HAVE A 18" 7 BLADE CLUTCH FAN WITH NO SHROUD. I WAS RUNNING A 2000CFM 16" ELECTRIC FAN AND THE CAR WAS RUNNING 225-230 THROUGH TOWN....CHANGED TO THE CLUTCH FAN AND IT'S NOW RUNNING AROUND 215 THROUGH TOWN. (TRIED RUNNING A 180 T-STAT BECAUSE I THOUGHT IT WAS RUNNING THROUGH THE RADIATOR TOO FAST...NO IT RAN HOTTER). ALSO, THE CAR DOES COOLDOWN TO 190 OR SO WHEN I GET ON THE HIGHWAY....TELLING ME ITS AN AIRFLOW PROBLEM (I THINK).

CLEARANCE IS VERY MINIMAL... NO SHROUD WOULD FIT BECAUSE OF THE PLACEMENT OF THE FAN (OFFSET) AND LOCAL FABRICATOR QUOTED ME A PRICE OF $400 TO BUILD ALUMINUM SHROUD. (20 YRS. OLD AND ALREADY SPENT MY SAVINGS BUILDING THIS CAR)

I PURCHASED A VINTAGE A/C UNIT WHILE BUILDING THE ENGINE AND HAVE NOT HAD THE CHANCE TO PUT IT ON BECAUSE I AM STILL TRYING TO FIGURE OUT THIS HEATING PROBLEM....ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS.

I think if you add a shroud on it, it will drop it some. try modifying the stock shroud a bit.

No shroud is the problem for sure.

I don't understand the placement of the fan issue. Offset?

yes...the fan is not directly in the middle of the radiator...its completely covering the core of the radiator...its just off to one side 1.5-2" more than the other.
thanks for the fast output...

Another question for your guys....I'm running a 160 hi-flow tstat with my hi-flow water pump....should I change that to a 180 (and if so why)?? Also, I'm running a mechanical auto-meter temp gauge in my head...should I change it to the front of the intake (and if so why)???
Thanks for the help.

The shroud thingy is huge! Oh.. by the way.. did I say the shroud thingy is huge! Try to fit another some how some way. Being that I am not a Chevelle guy per se (I don't own one)... what's with the offset? More infor please.

Another question for your guys....I'm running a 160 hi-flow tstat with my hi-flow water pump....should I change that to a 180 (and if so why)?? Also, I'm running a mechanical auto-meter temp gauge in my head...should I change it to the front of the intake (and if so why)???
Thanks for the help.

160 is too low! The operational temperature range for your engine is about 180 degrees. This is where all modern lubricants are designed to be effective, moisture is evaporated away at plausible rates, wear rates are best and also performance is best as well. See chart and further explanation below.

http://performanceunlimited.com/illustrations/img216.gif

The graph above illustrates the importance of how critical optimum coolant temperature is to the longevity and performance of an internal combustion engine. Cool water makes good horsepower, to a point. Warm water minimizes engine cylinder wear, to a point also.

However, there is a "middle ground" where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That "magic" number lies in the 175-180 degree range, which requires a 180 degree thermostat..

The all too commonly used 160 degree thermostat is way too low to be considered for performance or engine longevity. As the chart illustrates, engine wear increased by double at 160, than at 185 degrees. The correct water temperature is required for the cylinders to achieve a minimum specific temperature in order to allow a fully homogenized Air/Fuel mixture to combust efficiently and that number is coincidentally 180 degrees.

The temperature sensor thing is best at the exit point of the intake. The reason is simple.. this is where the water will be the hottest.. and will monitor BOTH cylinder banks.

I would suggest that if you cannot make a shroud/mechanical fan work.. go for a high output fan system. This would fix your problem pronto!

What I'm asking here is will my engine run hotter with the 160 hi flow...when compared using a 180 or higher hi-flow t stat????

What I'm asking here is will my engine run hotter with the 160 hi flow...when compared using a 180 or higher hi-flow t stat????

NO! The 180 will simply allow the system to elevate to the opening calibration point and cycle at that point. So, the 160 will run cooler when the system is capable of cooling to that point. Thermostats DO NOT HAVE ONE THING TO DO WITH THE COOLING CAPACITY OF THE SYSTEM. They simply regulate the operating point.

Make sure your guage is accurate. I checked mine and found it off 11 degrees at idle.