As I was putting my rollcage in I accidently mismeasured a length by ten inches, and had to splice a piece of the back brace into another length to add the ten inches. I also had to add about three inches to the halo to get the halo positioned correctly in the car.

I heard through the grapevine that I should have made a bud, and then inserted the bud into the brace, to get my proper length. I'm being told I can't just butt two 1 5/8" tubes together, weld, and call it good. Does anyone know if this is correct? Does anyone know if grinding the welds down, body filling, and sanding it smooth would work? If I have to make corrects to the splices I may as well buy a new rollcage and reinstall it. Thanks.

Here's a picture of the splice I made on the backbrace. You can see the splice down low, on the drivers side backbrace.

http://webpages.charter.net/seanthomas/malibu17-1.jpg

Why not just replace that piece of tubing? Even if it did pass tech, it may crumple in an accident defeating the purpose of the bar???

If I had to replace the halo and one of the braces I'd basically have to get a new kit. Getting a mandrel bent halo made up would probably cost just as much as a new kit, I would imagine. I'm just trying to find out what the rules are, since this isn't actually written in the rulebook, and examine my options. That may end up happening yet, Ken.

grinding the welds down, body filling, and sanding it smooth A roll cage isn't there just for "looks".

Do it right. It may be your own life that it saves (or doesn't) someday.

Sean,

From the pics I saw, it looks like you had the main hoop back too far anyway...it really shouldn't be back behind the door opening. There's a rule which states the main hoop must be within 6" of the drivers head.

I'm 6'-1" tall and my hoop is placed slightly forward of the opening and the main hoop is barely within the spec...I have a support tube coming off the cross brace for the seat and these support tubes are over 4" long.

If it were me, I'd buy another kit and start over. If you splice the cage, it "could" be safe, but it would kill any resale value the car would have down the road. A very well designed & constructed cage will only add value to a vehicle for potential sale down the road.

just something to consider.

i do know you not allowed to gring on welds, or "smooth welds" in in shape or form. it must be left alone as you welded it.

last i knew there was nothing in the rule book saying you can not have splices.

You guys are just full of good news. :mad:

I'm just pissed right now. My first rollcage and I've already 'F'd is up. I feel like heading to the garage to hang myself, but I'm affraid I'd screw that up too. :D

Originally posted by SS_Sean:
I feel like heading to the garage to hang myself, but I'm affraid I'd screw that up too. :D As long as you splice the rope, you'll be allright! tongue.gif :D

Ha! Good one. I'm going to call the NHRA tech line on Friday evening and talk with one of the chassis inspectors. I'll go from there. If there's a problem I'll replace the cage. If they buy off on the welds I'll let it fly...

I'm not sure about the rule's, but if it's properly welded, it's as strong or stronger than a regular piece of pipe. I would'nt grind it down though.

I don't think buttweldning two pices together to make a splice is NHRA legal.
A weld creates stresses in the material and the spliced tubing will be weakened.

It looks to me like you have to do it all over again..

Good Luck!!

//R.D.

I'm not sure about nhra but any other associations weve dealt with would hang us if we showed up with a splice. Not only that it would have to be welded as if it was a pressurized pipe. If it were me it would be lesson learned measure twice cut once and get a new pipe bent up. P.S. don't hang yourself some idiot may get your car and we'd miss ya. Ralph

Heres the deal .. if your going to " extend " a peice of the tube, You have to use a sleeve OVER both peices and the sleeve has to be atleast 6" (10" ?? ) long and rosette welds must be used and visible

It shouldnt cost that much to have a shop bend a new halo. The price of tube has doubled in the last 1 1/2 yrs. .. but bending it shouldnt be much at all. I would definetly check into it.

I do know that when a cage is inspected for legality they will specifically look to make sure all welds are visible and unmodified.

There might be a little more info here, or on a related page: http://www.nhraonline.com/contacts/tech_faq.html

I verified the roll cage splices are incorrect and will have to be replaced. Since I'm not the worlds best welder, and I've obviously over-stepped my bounds, I called a local chassis builder. I'm going to run the car down to him tomorrow morning and find out how much he'll charge to replace the halo and back brace, and also move the main hoop forwards, to within the correct distance of the back of the drivers head (with helmet on). I may as well have a pro do it, since I don't have a shop of my own, and will have a little more ammo to do it right, myself, on the next one.

Good call Sean.
If you ever need that cage you'll be glad you
made it.

Took the car down to a chassis shop this morning. The guy will be able to build a custom bent 10 point cage using mild steel for about $750. I have to cut the old cage out prior to this happening, and he's booked up until January or February. It'll happen, but not any time soon.

If you want a copy of the NHRA Rulebook let me know I have a 2002 and a 1999 copy that I don't need. Send me an E-mail with your address and I'll drop it in the mail. Some rules changes but the section on general Regulations is pretty standard and gives specs on rollcage construction.

Thanks, Bob. I have the 2004 edition. It didn't help. The info on splicing a roll cage wasn't under 'roll cages' section. Go figure. :rolleyes: