Hey guys. Ive started a couple discussions about assembling the shortblock, Im just wondering where you guys start, Im making sure I have everyting needed to get crackin' Brass freeze plug kit, pistons are hung on rods, refinished rods, crank kit, everything balanced. I know I need a ring compressor for the pistons, not sure what else im missing graemlins/beers.gif Thanks... :eek:

Soap and Hot water. Scrub it till you're bleeding.

Pnut,

I few of the items that I can think of are as follows:

1. Feeler gauges (measure the ring gap, Rod/Rod/crank jour gap, and crank play), you will also need some very fine .001, .002, etc gauges to measure the piston to sidewall clearance.

Note: Remember, even if the machine shop made a mistake, it's your job as the engine assembler to catch it now.

2. Some way to file your Piston rings to spec.
(Make sure you file them correctly).
3. PlastiGauge, for Rod / Main Bearing clearances. (I expect that you don't have Mic's).
4. Clay, to check your Valve to Piston Clearance. Make sure to have one solid lifter on hand for this check (on the Roller cams, someone else needs to chime in). You will also need to check your Oil pump to Oil pan clearance (before you spot weld your Pump (after you remove the spring ofcourse)).
5. A book or Sheet with all the correct bearing, etc Specifications on it.
6. A book or Sheet that shows the correct Torque sequence for the Heads and intake manifold.
7. With the compression ring, that you have already mentioned, make sure to have rubber hose to place over the Rod bolts (or you can purchase a set premade). I normally use Gas Hose, depending on the Rod bolt size. Don't miss this step, don't nick that crank.
8. Make sure to have the correct Cam lube, on the cam lobes and lifter bottoms.
9. A good EOS is used by most of the guys I know that start up HP engines.
10. A good Quality Torque wench, Ft pounds and Inch pounds, if you have money.
11. A tube of RTV for the corners, like the intake, oil pan gasket, etc.
12. Sealant, for the head bolts, etc.
13. A ring Expander, they are nice, but not absolutely needed.
14. Oil and Grease.
15. Large Quantity of Paper Towels for the engine, and a few rags for your hands.
16. A small pry bar, or Large Scewdriver for moving the Crank, to check clearances.
17. A socket large enough to knock in your Water plugs, don't use one that is too small.
18. A Crank Socket (for the nose of the crank) to turn the engine over with. These are not that costly and are really nice.
19. WD40 or something that can displace water after you have washed the Engine and Crank. Wash it and then try to dry it off with a PAPER towel and air. (Don't use anything that will leave lint or particles behind, like shop rags). Then make sure to spray the cylinder walls, Lifter holes, etc, with WD40 or something that can do the same job.
20. A long bolt, washers, and a Nut, to put the Harmonic Balancer on with. Don't use the Wood and hammer method.
21. Something to check the Valve Train Geometry with, like the Plastic adapter (length Checker) from Manely. Or a Marker that will rub off the top of your Push rod.
22. A good Assembly lube, I happen to like Permatex Ultra Slick, but there are a lot of good Lubes out there.

That's all that I can think of off the top of my head, but I'm sure others will fill in the rest.

Take your time and assemble it in good light. If you have any question, or even a doubt, stop and get help.

Good luck,
Fred.

I assume you have a digital torque wrench? Also, when you go to get a ring compressor, I have found the tapered "bore specific" ring compressors to be the most user friendly. The cheapo adjustable ring compressors just don't cut it. And the best tool of all to have is "patience". Take your time and double check everything. Good Luck.

Well, not to quibble with Joe, but TRIPLE check everything!

Have plastic to wrap everything up tight while you're not working on it. get totally anal about everything being clean.

I used the adjustable ring compressor, and found it not to be too difficult. Although i have never used the bore specific type, if money is an issue my adjustable one worked just fine. And yes, ring spreader pliers are a must in my book... I spend a few dollars on the local parts house cheap ones, and they worked great and saved my thumbs lots of hurt.

Daniel

Good stuff there from SS4speed! I used adj ring compressor but had to remove on 2 pistons and pull pistons and reposition as not to brake rings! If you feel resistence when rings start through cylinder Stop! and reposition! A digital torque wrench is great but not necessary-Any good quality torque wrench from MAC, SnapOn, Sears, etc. works very well. Use stretch guage on rods for ultimate torque tightening though I didn't on my race engine and its still running fine! If AFI Super Dampner used may have to ream to fit crank!

Blazerbob, thanks.

Pnut,

I forgot at least two items,
23. Degree wheel, for degreeing the cam, borrow one if you need too.
24. Dial Indicator or a Piston stop.

Brain is just not working today.

Fred.

A bore specific ring compressor is so easy to use it's like cheating ! Take your time and good luck .

Just finished my first shortblock a couple of weeks ago. Please take your time. Patience, patience, patience. If your'e not shure about something, please ask here and don't assume anything. Don't work on it when your'e not in the right frame of mind. Good luck and happy wrenching!

puting crank and pistons in make sure you dont mix up rod caps or main caps......make sure the arrows point in the proper direction......turn the crank over as you torque to help locate any problems with bind.

dont oil the back sides of bearing place in position dry and lent free.....

put one set of pistons in at a time and rotate assembly just to make sure nothing is binding........pay attention to rod chambers.....the straight sides go in the middle.....

dont forget to install the oil pump rod first and steel sleeve.....pass on the plastic ones...

make sure your dots on the timing chain are lineed up.....i like doing the 6 o'clock on the cam and 12 o'clock on the crank......easier on the eyes.....lol.....

dont chew up
the crank snout with vise grips.....use the bolt with 3/4" socket.

dont go hog wild with gasket maker.....lay gaskets on the oil rails dry and use just enough to seal the corners.....

dont install the rear main seal backwards.....use a small dab very small dab
on the ends of the rear main seal and off set it alittle so you dont have a straight across line for leaks......

im sure theres more but thats just off the top of my head for now.....

Buy a good book for reference as you go, Engine blueprinting is a good one, and how to rebuild your big block chevy. Don't assume anything, check all of your clearances. And clean the block and parts thoroughly before assembly with brushes and hot sopy pressurized water, I usually warm the parts up with a heater after drying then apply some wd40 to keep it from rusting. You've got money invested so no sense on rushing the build, if something doesn't look right ask here. Have fun, Bob

When installing pistons make sure the ring compressor is about as tight as you can get it, hold it tight against the top of the block when taping piston in hole. A ring would just love a small gap to pop out of. I dip the piston assembly in oil just before installing. Roll the crank away from the cylinder you are working on, you don't want to try and line up your rod on your crank as your taping piston in. Yes use hose on the rod bolts like ss said. Mark

If you dont have all the tools for assembly of an engine, and giving the cost of all the parts used. Im not sure I would want to risk making one mistake and ruining some expensive parts.

I figure. I might as well have a shop at least assemble the short block since they are already going to all the work to machine it.

Chris.

You know it sucks, I did pull off the main caps I was keeping them in order but they kind of got thrown around, but the shop put them back on when they were tanked, I shouldnt assume he put them back on in order though. I'll have to check em' good some how. Well time to go spend some more money, tonight I'll be working on it, Thanks for all the begining tips I'll let you guys know what I come across....

Phil,

Before the rebuild, it probably didn't matter if the main caps were mixed up. Assuming the shop line honed the block and caps... Of course, after that was done, they need to be kept in the proper order...

Another thing I have always done, is after you wash and dry the block, install the freeze plugs and paint the block. Primer is okay, but I am always sure to get at least one coat of non-porous paint on the block to seal the pores. I do this before assembly because any oil/lube spilled onto the outside of the block can prevent paint from sticking later...

Someone may want to go thru the basic process of filing the rings properly too...

Phil;
you've got email @ yahoo

Yes, filing the rings and piston install is my main concern here smile.gif Any walk thru's would be great. I do have my trusty new bbc book as well, but help here always kicks butt. ... Checking mail....

smile.gif

did the shop line hone the block?

if not, and you didnt mark the main caps then you better have it checked and or honed.

this would be my main concern.

i pressure washed out my block here at home with 2600 psi and id only use a fixed ring tool if you need help get ahold of me im just up in folsom and proably have most of what you dont and always willing to lend someone a hand im no motor god but i have never had one of my builds go bad / yours could always be my first .. ha ha ha . just kidding if i can do anything for you let me know

I was hoping Id find a local wanting to help smile.gif Maybe this week or weekend. I'll be buying parts and slowly starting it all week. What are you driving motown/malibu?

smile.gif

Has anyone ever tried to blow out the parts with a compressor after washing all the parts. I did this to avoid ANY kind of lint from even paper towels. It worked for me and you can get into all of the threaded holes in the block that way too. A lot less WD40 to displace the water.

Rob

It wasnt line honed, unless it's complimentary ;) or a part of boring and tanking. But no, I didnt have it done.

A standard rebuild around here consists of "align honing" the mains before any other work is done. This is the point to which all of the other components "square off" to. Bores perpendicular to the crank and the decks parallel. I would check with your machine shop to see, and take a look at your caps, they may already be number stamped into them from the shop.

Mike

Moly-Lube like Isky's Rev stuff for the cam and lifters and all other pressure point areas like rockers, p/r tips, distributor gear, etc...

And a good 3 pound "FT" with a smooth ended wooden handle on it to ka-thunk your pistons home while you have the rings cinched down..

I also made two "althread dealies" to push my dampers on. 7/16" for SB and 1/2" for BB's if I remember right. Just use some good washers stacked up and a couple of nuts and a schosh of grease and have at it sorta deal...

pdq67

I forgot about a good hammer of somekind, I dont have anything that'll cut it as of now smile.gif I think once I get the crank and pistons in all this nervousness will go away, and will be somewhat smooth sailing, atleast have that main foundation to work on top of! I probably wont jump in until the end of the week. Still buying last minute stuff and cleaning parts, as we say ... no rush! Hey if anyone wants free beer and likes assembling engines, let me know ;)

damn you guys have made this engine rebuild seem like a rocket booster rebuild. dont panic. take a breath . if there is someone close to your area, i am sure they would not mind helping you with your first rebuild. its alot easier than what you have read here so far. after you have torqued the main bearings . turn the crankshaft make sure no drag. ever where you have metal to metal rotating install prelube on that surface. place small hose on rod bolts until piston is in place. after you dry fit oilpan to set oilpump sump. then remove pump and tack weld the sump in place.just take time and lube and torque. you will be ok. if somthing dont seem right IT AINT most of the time.