The three core rad in my '67 Chevelle seems marginal on hot days. On the highway at 70 miles an hour, the temp gauge keeps creeping higher until it is uncomfortably close to the H on the factory gauge. It has the correct 5 blade fan with a recent thermal clutch. Timing is good (about 36 total), and the car is well tuned.

Since it runs warm in highway driving, I doubt that a HV water pump or an electric helper fan would do much good. The best (or only) solution might be to switch to an aluminum two core rad.

Griffin makes an aluminum rad with two 1 1/4 inch cores. I'm wondering if the 1 1/4 inch cores would be better for cooling than the 1 inch core rad sold by Alumitech. And I'm wondering how the quality of the two (Griffin and Alumitech) compare. The Griffin is a little cheaper to buy, but not much, so price isn't a big factor here.

From what I've seen, if $$$ isn't that much of a problem, then DEFINITELY get the Alumitech!! Saw a few of them at the last show and MAN are they a work of art. Cools very well too!

Griffin makes an aluminum rad with two 1 1/4 inch cores. I'm wondering if the 1 1/4 inch cores would be better for cooling than the 1 inch core rad sold by Alumitech. And I'm wondering how the quality of the two (Griffin and Alumitech) compare. The Griffin is a little cheaper to buy, but not much, so price isn't a big factor here.

First, I would change the thermostat out to a new one ... just in case it is sticking partially open. Use the "high flow" models only.

Well, I love the Alumitech product.. ..... very high quality indeed.....and Don's going to hate me saying this.. but to answer your question directly and theoretically.. given the same footprint/specification etc... the larger-tube will out cool the smaller size equivalent. And Griffin makes a very good product.

But, I think the Alumitech is a gorgeous piece and easily would suffice if you went with it.

Also, if you are running warm JUST AT CRUISE, check your plugs for an overlean condition at cruise. This is very common and will cause a hotter cruise temp. Also, make sure the lower hose is in good shape and in the older style lower hoses (single ply) a spring is preferred to keep it from collapsing. Last but not least.. I would entertain the thought of an aftermarket high volume/flow waterpump! The combination of new radiator and pump would be a heat killer for sure! (that's assuming you don't have an overly lean issue)

Alumitech, for 2 reasons from your descriptions:

First, cooling capacity - the griffin has more. But, I don't think you need it - the Alumitech is still a great radiator for most any need you could come up with. If it can't keep you cool, I would think something else is wrong.

Second, the fit. It just plain fits - you need do nothing, just drop it in and go.

I have both. I have the Griffin in a 64 Chevelle 454 and works good and looks aren't bad. I have a Alumitech in my 66 elacamino. That one is a really nice looking and very functional radiator. Both are good radiator but you can't beat the service and advise that Don at Alumitech gives.

i have the griffin bolt in muscle car radiator in my 66 with a bbc. it will not keep it cool in traffic. i doubt the alumitec is any better. it does look closer to factory. here's the kicker. i run a long water pump setup and a 17" flex fan,and it's a really tight fit. i don't have a shroud on it yet, and i think thats my problem. i tryed one of the cheaper ebay radiators first, and it worked as well as the griffin does. the fit is so tight that the correct shroud i have may not fit. the griffin is only rated to 600hp, and i was close to that. it would work better with a short pump setup( i think the alumitec guy wants you to run a short setup as well), but if you don't have that already thats very costly. 66-67 are kind of handicapped as they don't have room for a big wide radiator like the 68-72 cars. i guess the frame rails are narrower and the radiator support mounts screw you as well. if i were you i'd try what has been said about checking your car out further. mine does'nt get hot at speed , just in traffic in the hot months i can watch it creep up at a redlight. maybe a better tune and a slim line electric pusher fan up front will help ya too.

Good cooling is more than just a radiator ...... I have the alumitech downflow stock appearing version never have a problem even on the slow cruise in Nashville 97* heat 190 MAX .but a clutch fan without a correct shroud is useless AND the correct sizing of the water pump pulley to crank pulley to get the right ratio ( this is critical for long idle or cruise periods ) .......a good water pump like a Stewart and a high flow Robertshaw drilled stat

If your not a purist do what I finally did on my 66 Convertible 396 400hp motor. After months of replacing Fans, replacing several Thermal Clutches, Thermostats, timing and talking to Scott Wheaton and Don at Alumitech my cooling problem is over. I now run twin 11 inch Spal Fans and can't say enough about how it cools the engine on 100 degree days, while caught in CT traffic. Don originally suggested when I bought his radiator to go electric but I didn't. That's my mistake. Now when the temp gets to 195 in traffic the fans kick in and in one minute temps go down to 175. It's a work of art. I also installed a Trans cooler since mines a 350 auto. Couln't be happier now. The fans sound like a distant leaf blower but it's sure beats my old temps of 230 plus in traffic.
I say electric is the way to go if your not 100% original....

Bob in CT

Good cooling is more than just a radiator ...... I have the alumitech downflow stock appearing version never have a problem even on the slow cruise in Nashville 97* heat 190 MAX .but a clutch fan without a correct shroud is useless AND the correct sizing of the water pump pulley to crank pulley to get the right ratio ( this is critical for long idle or cruise periods ) .......a good water pump like a Stewart and a high flow Robertshaw drilled stat

I agree! :thumbsup:
My Superior brand aluminum radiator, a good GM clutch fan, shroud, March pulleys, and a Stewart alum water pump is all it takes to keep the 540 cool here in the deep South.
Never over 180 degrees...:cool:

Just on customer service Griffin couldnt beat an Alumitech not to mention the excellent quality & performance of Dons radiators & workmanship.

Don stands behind his work and fully supports this site with helpfull suggestions for all our fellow members that are having cooling issues .

Don would never let a customer dangling if his product had a problem or issue from what i have seen written here in t/chevelle from past and recent customers of his,they all had all good things to say about Don's customer service & his prodcuts.

If i were looking for an AL radiator it would be an Alumitech for sure.

Scott

I was putting Griffins in customer cars back it the late 80's, long before most even considered aluminum radiators. Griffin has been around for a whole lotta years, and was at the time very easy to work with, they had good customer service. I know most here are comfortable with Don from Alumitech, and I do see by his responces on here that he is very customer driven, so with that I would never tell you to go with either vender. It is just straight out it is your preference, both are good companies.

Sasche Rod Shop One of the best in the country out of N Dallas quit Griffin. The biggest reason was their bankruptcy. I put one in a 62 Impala. Great looks but it did not give me all I wanted for the money. Biggest problem in some of these older ones is the shroud. The 62 original is only a good finger protector and will not suck squat.

Guys

I almost have tears in my eyes as I read all the good things you have to say about me ...and our product .
Yes its true we only make the 1 inch 2 row core model as Hotrodsrg stated this is where Griffin has some companys beat .
I dont take any offence to the post Steve ..thanks for the good words also ... along with Bob and Scott ...this is a brother hood of Chevelle owners
I only try to help when I can .
The results of the product speaks volumes ...I don't have to push here ..you all know me and where I started from .
I would have to say its a personal choice what company one wants to go with ...sometimes its the cost factor sometimes the results posted by other users ..Its always nice to hear people are happy with our product and the customer service .
thanks again guys for your support from the bottom of my heart .
Don

Since it seems that a lot of us are having similar problems with our '67 big blocks this summer, I thought I would post an update on my experiences.

A temporary hookup of a mechanical temp gauge with numbers helped know how hot the 396 ran. On the highway, it reached about 220 and crept up a little higher when running slow or idling off the highway. Too hot, IMO.

Installing a new Edelbrock high flow water pump and a high flow 180 thermostat helped a little, dropping cruise temps to about 210 to 215. Still not enough.

So I ordered an Alumitech BB rad, which arrived today. First impressions are good. It really does fit well; just over one hour from lifting the car cover off to firing up the engine with the new rad completely installed.

On a ten mile run this evening in temperatures of 25 degrees Celcius (77 Fahrenheit) the stock factory temp gauge did not reach the half way point between Cold and Hot. Before, it would have gone at least three quarters of the distance to the Hot mark. I no longer have the mechanical gauge installed (got tired of having it hanging from the windshield wiper blade), but I'm guessing the engine did not go above 180 degrees this evening.

Once this cool spell passes and we get back into the mid 80s or higher, it should be possible to know more. If it runs cool then, I'll be very impressed. So far so good!!

UPS delivered my Alumitech today and if it cools as good as it looks I will be very pleased, very nice work Don. I can't wait to get it and my new high volume water pump on and see close to normal temps on my BB. With 38* advanced timing I'm 220-230 on the highway and 215 in marginal traffic flow, I just can't get rid of the heat at high RPM's. I'll let you know what changes I experience.

My 402 (410) roller motor with a stock water pump, basic metal clutch fan, stock shroud and Alumitech radiator sticks right at the 180 mark like it was nailed there!

Couldn't be happier all the way around.

i bought an alumitech from the advice of the guys on this site. its a very nice piece of work. it was easy to install (even for an amatuer mechanic like me) and the temp gauge goes to 185 and never (i mean NEVER) moves.

what more can you ask for?

later - oaw

Oscar. with your Alumitech...did you go with twin spal fans or do you have stock set up with clutch fan?

GO WITH ALUMITECH and make your self proud. Don will help you thru any problem and it will look GREAT..I'm a proud buyer of Alumitech and haven't had a problem yet..GO FOR IT...!

Bob in CT

My El Camino runs a steady 190 with the stock clutch fan and an Alumitech. We were just in a parade where last year I had to pull out because of overheating. This year no problem and the temp was a couple of degrees warmer. Thanks Don.

i have a stock fan but the clutch was removed and an aluminum spacer was installed. no electric fans or anything like that.

oaw

I put one in my 66 396 chevelle with the twin spawl fan set up and it went right in no mods.Looks awesome and easy wiring install.I was scared at first but just dove right in and it was easy.I drilled and tapped the intake for the themo. and it kicks right on at 195 and off at 175.Sitting in traffic it never gets over the 195 cause the fans kick on and down comes the temp.I love the way it looks and works awesome.I give Don at alumitech a big :thumbsup:.I know its alittle pricey but you never regret buying the best.

Another update on my '67 396 and its former overheating problem. The temperature moved back into the 80s today, giving a fairly good test for the new Edelbrock water pump, thermostat, and Alumitech rad. On a ten mile drive on the highway, the factory gauge stayed below the half way point from C to H. From what I recall from having the other gauge hooked up a while ago, that is about 180, the operating temp established by the 180 thermostat. After a few minutes idling after pulling off the highway, the temp only went up very slightly.

It looks like the overheating problem is solved. Thanks for the advice on this forum, and thanks to Don at Alumitech for a good product!!

Reading these posts are encouraging and I'm interested in possibly purchasing a Alumitech rad..

Is there still a chevelles member discount?

Call Don on the Phone. He will take good care of you.

Chuck

cx1 - you asked about the discount for Team Chevelle members. I asked about that; Don told me it ended last year.