I was looking at a 68 that has a ladder bar rear setup and to me the rear looks like it might not be aligned correctly. If you look at the 2 pics attached, the rear tires look closer to the fender on the passenger side. Is this an adjustment issue and can it be corrected with the track arm (correct name?) ? Or is this signs of a poorly installed kit?
See attached pics.

I asked for bigger pics but only got a a price reply.

Yeah, that don't look right.

can be adjusted by the panhard bar or diaginal link depending on which one of the set ups it has..

It is a diagonal link.

JWA,my car had the very same problem once and I took it to the shop which they adjusted it,which now is correct.

You can adjust the diagnal bar to move the rear left or right. Adjust a little and check until even. Looks like it wont take but a turn or so. Make sure and check to see if it goes straight before you launch hard at the track. Stick something at the lip until it measures the same on both sidesl

Don't forget though to check the rear for square after the diagonal bar adjustment. Even though the rear will move side to side it also will pull one side forward in the car too. So it will require adjusting the rod ends to straighten the rear. But even still I would check to see that the rear is centered in the car to start with. My friends car was not as obvious but the rails were not even side to side when the car was built. When he went to a have a new cage put in they wound up cutting the rails out and starting over because no measurements were the same side to side.

just remember that setting the quarter panel to edge of tire evenly might not mean that the rear is centered chassis wise,what good is putting everything in a bind to achieve the tires being centered in the body

adjust the diag. link both ways until you find the "floating" middle.

hopefully everything is centered

if not ,you can use [chrome moly] spherical rod ends for all 6 ladder bar attaching points

i just did this last week on mine,the chrome moly spherical rod ends are rated at a higher strength than the solids,i double checked with don scholl at s&w race cars about this,it's perfectly ok to do.

in my case using a panhard bar, the rear sphericals are able to move a little as opposed to the solid ends binding,if you have to shift the rear alot,there are other issues

Anybody find a wrench that can tighten the big nut (approx 1 1/16) on the hiem joint at the front of the ladder bar?

With the safety straps on it is just about impossible to get a wrench in there. Or is it fair to say the only way to tighten is to remove the safety straps.

if the ladder bars are paral. with the frame now, and you pull it it over, now their in a bind situation-you can fix it with heim joints, but the bars are still misaligned-maybe the body is off, and the rear is correct-you have to look at the quality of the work, i have seen some real butcher stuff, nothing square

Thanks for the input guys. :thumbsup: