:eek: I'm back to sbc. Have you ever heard of a block cracking inside the cam tunnel? Mine cracked between cyc 5&7 didn't even have it runnin 6 months will try to post pic.

Yes the blocks can crack there. Everyone thinks the mains are the area to check, but the weak area is the lifter valley and the outside of the block. Mostly due to freezing. But also can happen with components binding, dropping a valve, etc. Always best to have the block mag'd completely inside and out.

I have a 454 block that crack there from water freezing in the block. I was thinking of repairing it with JB Weld. Has anyone ever tried this?

Many years ago I had a fully prepped 427 4 bolt block that I discovered had a "crack" in the lifter bore area. I tried to have the block welded and it split wide open. I do not recommend welding. Of course about a day and a half after that I came across an article in one of the rags describing how BB chevys had casting problems in this area and the way to fix it was something like JB weld!! I would certainly try it now. Maybe others will have more details.

There is a company in West Chester, Pa. called Reneuzit (spelling?) that does specialized cast repair. They can do either welding on cast or mechanical locking pins. I have the number at work will post tomorrow.

Just call Ray Barton Engine in Pen

there is a system that is just awsom !
what they do is drill a hole an tap in a special
type of screw and they keep doing it untill the
complet crak is coverd.

they garranty never to come appart !
it look like a zipper!

any body ever see this !

Barton is a Hemi specialist and you don't discard
a Hemi block.. they will try hard to fix them...

The crack is only visible upside down,with oil pan off and cam out.There is no way to drill and pin.I've heard of that before but don't know how well it works.The block was magnafluxed.I don't think you could even get in there to that but i'm no machienst.

The drill & pin process is called "Lock and Stich". At least that is one trade name. Runs about $100.00/inch. The crack on my block was about 5" long : $500.00 to fix, then still needs all the machining. So the dilema really is the rarity of the block and the total cost. I had $550.00 into the block when I discovered the crack. {Block purchase, clean and mag}. Another $675.00 to go yet in overall machining costs and $500.00 to fix the crack. Total: $1725.00 I could've (may still) get a new GM block for $1000.00 and be done with it. I would not buy another block unless I either had seen the motor running or was cleaned/mag'd prior to purchase and was verifiable as a guarantee I could actually enforce.

Joe,

Even your motor w/a crack could of still ran fine and maybe not leaked, so even a running motor there is still some degree of risk. The idea of a new block sounds better all the time, but you don't get any of the rotating assembly though.

Can you get a new block for 1000.00? Is it finish bored/honed?

Don't quote me on this, but I think a new GM 454 GenVI block just needs a finish hone and install cam bearings, freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs.

I recently bought a gen 4 block 454 standard-bought new 60 over pistons and everything else-had it bored and cleaned-upon final cleaning before assembly I found a crack going across the main saddle-I am sick now-my second BBC with cracks-Anyone who wants it can have it free you pick it up-tagged and bagged ready for the dump!

Did you have the block mag'd first?

I can get core 454 longblocks for $450-$600
around here. Bore and hone @ $18.00 a hole.
That's $160-$175. If I'm spending $1700 on a block
it's a Merlin or Dart. I wouldn't waste my time
with a cracked block unless I was plum out of
money, and then I wouldn't spin it very hard.