cam break in [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: cam break in


ctrain22
Jan 7th, 04, 4:51 AM
What is the recommended best way to break in a new cam. I hear run for 20 minutes @2000 rpm. Is this right? Won't be able to drive her when I get it started. No front end on it. The cam is a Crane energizer 272. Any and all advice is appreciated.

Texas70
Jan 7th, 04, 9:03 AM
That's my plan graemlins/thumbsup.gif That seems to be what I have heard from the guys here:

20 min. @ 2000 - 2500 RPM

von
Jan 7th, 04, 11:15 AM
Also remove the inner valve springs (if dual) during break-in and add a bottle of GM EOS assembly lube (adds anti-wear chemicals) to the oil. Make sure timing is set close and fill the primary bowl of the carb with gas so it fires first try. To fill the primary bowl, make a small funnel out of paper and Scotch tape that will fit in the primary vent tube and add about 3 oz of gas. Open the throttle 3 times or so til the accelerator pump squirts gas. Hopefully during assembly you coated all cam lobes and bottoms of lifters with black moly paste.

MalibuMike70
Jan 7th, 04, 11:51 AM
Originally posted by von:
Also remove the inner valve springs (if dual) during break-in and add a bottle of GM EOS assembly lube (adds anti-wear chemicals) to the oil. Make sure timing is set close and fill the primary bowl of the carb with gas so it fires first try. To fill the primary bowl, make a small funnel out of paper and Scotch tape that will fit in the primary vent tube and add about 3 oz of gas. Open the throttle 3 times or so til the accelerator pump squirts gas. Hopefully during assembly you coated all cam lobes and bottoms of lifters with black moly paste. I second the motion. The only thing I would add is to use a good straight weight oil. change oil after break in then 500 miles after. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

ctrain22
Jan 7th, 04, 9:42 PM
what about lifter adjustment. Should they be a little loose, or normal?

Steve S
Jan 7th, 04, 10:26 PM
My recommendation is to not break it in until you can drive it. Leave thermostat out, fill radiator with straight water. Prime the oil pump with proper primer. Set timing, prime carb. In other words do eveything you can to get the oil flowing, gas in carb and timing right before you install plugs and fire if off. If you do the cam break in and let it sit to finish the car you will need to do it all over again.

Wolfplace
Jan 7th, 04, 10:40 PM
Originally posted by Steve S:
My recommendation is to not break it in until you can drive it. Leave thermostat out, fill radiator with straight water. Prime the oil pump with proper primer. Set timing, prime carb. In other words do eveything you can to get the oil flowing, gas in carb and timing right before you install plugs and fire if off. If you do the cam break in and let it sit to finish the car you will need to do it all over again. Ok, I'll bite,,,,why would you have to break the cam in again :confused:
Driving it is an ok idea as long as you are absoulely sure you have no leak issues which is a bit hard from the drivers seat,, & do not let it idle at any time for the first 30 minutes or so. :D

Rain Man
Jan 7th, 04, 10:45 PM
I would set lifters at recommended lash, no not looser. You'd have to loosen them a lot to make a difference in lift or spring pressure and then you could lose the cam. I prefer running engine a little longer than 20 minutes... about 30 minutes, that's just me. Some cam makers recommend a straight 30 wt. non detergent for cam break in. It's said that detergent oil will wash off the anti-wear properties of the moly lube or EOS. I've also learned that 1800-2200 rpm is best range for cam oiling so I run mine initially at 2000 rpm. Above all, make sure tuning is as close as possible for instant start up. Good luck!

graemlins/thumbsup.gif

UDHarold
Jan 7th, 04, 11:44 PM
Everybody has given good information, I'll just add a little. Use a 30-wt non-detergent oil, and whatever you do, do not use synthetic oil for break-in. Keep that for your 2nd oil change. I like to run the engine for 30 minutes, between 2500 to 3000. You can break the 30 minutes into 2 or 3 segments, for heat control.
The 272 Energizer is hydraulic. You should tighten down the rockers until you can just spin the pushrod between finger and thumb. After the 30 minute break-in, and after you change your oil and filter, loosen each rocker nut in turn until the lifter is 'ticking', then tighten 1/2 turn.
Most cam companies have very similar procedures on their web sites, and always in their catalogs. Following any of them gets you pretty much in the ballpark.....

UDHarold

Wooderson
Jan 8th, 04, 12:55 AM
An fyi, I've seen 30 weight non-detergent at Wal Mart for around 70 cents a quart. It's SA rated. I wonder if the SA rating is a problem?