best filler to use over lap welded seams [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: best filler to use over lap welded seams


Andy69
Jun 22nd, 07, 12:58 AM
?

I would assume the stuff with the fiberglass in it or is that old technology?

rubadub
Jun 22nd, 07, 1:28 AM
Dab some epoxy in the area that looks like it won't get in there when you spray it.

Then spray two coats of epoxy

Then duraglas

then sand

Then rage

Then sand

Then two coats of epoxy

then k38

Then sand

paint it

When I do my floor pans, I will throw some z-chrome into the picture also, right after the duraglas, when I'm done most of it will be on the floor, but it won't rust, the epoxy will seal the metal and any filler, keep the moisture out.

This is a lot of work, of which professional shops probably wouldn't do it, but a hobbist has the time to putz at it.

Put the good stuff on there, and good sharp sandpaper ( a good brand of it ).

Looking at the amount of work you are doing to this car, and how nice it is looking, you don't have a choice but to go first cabin, other then the welder:)

Rob

1968chev
Jun 22nd, 07, 1:35 AM
I`ve been out of the profession for a while now but I always prefered "All Metal". It lasted forever and was easier to sand, the way I remember it.

rubadub
Jun 22nd, 07, 2:22 AM
I either dreamt it or read it someplace about allmetal and epoxy as a combination wasn't the best thing to put on, I have searched four forums on two different occasions and can't find it. I might be wrong on this.

I just did some more searching, on the hotrodder forum, and they mentioned panel flex and vibration, and extreem hot and cold temperatures, somebody said that the epoxy would help out any flexing in that area.

I also read some articles about allmetal or lead, and on occasion moisture would get under it, not always, but has happened. Specifically around the roof quarter panel joint.

There has been a lot of discussions on this, and I'm not saying allmetal is not a good way to go, but pretty much everybody is leaning towards epoxy in most cases.

I guess a guy could go with about anything, but it still boils down to the right prep on any of it, and stick to what the manufacturer says.

If anybody can find a detailed product sheet on all metal and put it on here I would like to read it.

This whole subject needs a good discussion, but keep in mind we have professional bodymen on here, and time is money to them, where a hobbist can try and reinvent the wheel, its all a matter of sorting it out.

Rob

rubadub
Jun 22nd, 07, 3:24 AM
I couldn't find a product sheet on the internet for all metal, so I went out in the garage, and heres what they say.

USC All-metal preparation. Sand or grind surface to be repaired down to bare
metal. Surface must be clean, dry and free from all dirt, oil, grease, wax
and paint. Let harden 15 to 20
minutes. Sand and prime with Morton eliminator primer surfacer

I read it to the bride with a magnifying glass and copied and pasted it.

Is epoxy primer a paint, or what is the definition of it, I don't know, just relaying information.

I have used it on different things and not had a problem, not sure about long term with it, anyway.

They say it seals out moisture, and back to what I have read on body fillers, duraglas is supposed to be water proof, and a couple of our system experts say there isn't a body filler that is waterproof. So i guess thats why they recommend epoxy under and over any fillers.

I'm not an experienced bodyman, so all I have here is what I read.

Rob

davewho1
Jun 22nd, 07, 6:48 AM
I just used some All Metal to fill in the rust pits in my trunk floor until they come out with a one piece floor for '66 Chevelles. I guess I'll see how it sands in the next day or so. Hopefully it lasts for a while.

Dave

MakMetalFab
Jun 22nd, 07, 9:27 AM
My favorite dodyfiller is dynatron ulitmate. It sands easy and goes on nice. The only way to make sure a repair lasts forever is to butweld the new panel it. grind & epoxy both sides. If it is a factory overlap like on the roof, I like to fill it with duraglass then finish off with ultimate. All body work should be sealed in before and after with epoxy.

ssal396
Jun 22nd, 07, 10:13 AM
I just used duraglass on the welds (jammed in as hard as possible), then I gave it a quick sanding and went over it with filler...

1968Chevelle300Deluxe
Jun 22nd, 07, 10:14 PM
on my 68 i used Duraglass because its waterproof then sanded it then put the Evercoat Rage Gold on it because its a very very high quality body filler:thumbsup:

GRN69CHV
Jun 23rd, 07, 6:58 AM
I used Duraglass on the roof-1/4 seam applied over epoxy, then sealed with epoxy. My car will be getting a vinyl top put back, but the glass has been in there now for two years during which time, the car has been subject to plenty of manipulation as well as some hard road testing of components as it has been built - no signs of cracking.

Key to epoxy under any filler is to apply the filler right away. A the epoxy cures, it binds the filler to the base metal. Doing it this way, you get a chemical adhesion that is less prone to lifting. I did use All-Metal on the the 1/4's and doors for dents - applied direct to bare metal, then sealed with epoxy. These turned out excellent also.

HowardH
Jun 24th, 07, 2:41 PM
I believe that year of car was made out of metal. So..........It would make

sense to use a metal product...................All Metal...................:hurray:

www.howardsbackyardautobody.com

von
Jun 24th, 07, 6:34 PM
Just be sure the weld seam is filled with a waterproof product such as resin or epoxy before applying any plastic filler. No matter how good your welds are, there's a good chance some pin holes exist. If there's any way for moisture to get through to the filler from the backside, it's going to be trouble down the road as in bubbled filler and paint. It's also a good idea to coat the weld area from the backside with POR-15. Just extra insurance.

baddbob71
Jun 24th, 07, 11:44 PM
Don't use any polyester fillers over an open edged seam. The seam needs to be welded completely closed before any fillers are applied. Body solder works on open seams because it flows through the seam if done right but with expansion and contraction you're likely to see ghost lines if polyesters are applied over open edge seams.