..and,what tires are you using and what is your 60 ft.? ET too smile.gif

I assume this is an "automatic" poll? Come on Chris, live up to that username and do the swap :D

Originally posted by Epistuff:
I assume this is an "automatic" poll?Nah..auto or stick..don't matter :D
One of these days I'll get another stick car..I used to have 3 of them at once,my 70 SS396,a 68 SS396 'velle and a 69 'vette..sold 'em all..now I'm stickless :D
I could be called Mr. Enigma

Car idled at 1500 RPM, stage it at 1900, Brakes held the Converter to 4100 w/ small tire 3100 w/ big tire, flashed to 5200 ( w t/brake it went to 6100 ). Nailed it on the 3rd amber. With 29.5 x 10.5 stones it did a best of 1.466, avg. .48-.49, now have 14 x 32 GY's leave the same way w/ a 1.467 best and 1.47 -.48 consistant

Idle at 1200 (set in the pits using idle screw), foot barely contacting gas pedal. when I see the third amber I push the gas pedal down and go.

Hoosier QT Pro 28x13.5x15, stock 12 bolt housing and no mini tubs.

See Signature

MC71454,

I know there is some disagreement about footbraking or not. I can only hold my engine to 1800rpm footbrake style anyway. But I always feel like I launch harder with it, even if I can't say that I do (I have always footbraked at the track, so no comparison).
How's footbraking work with your setup?
I am going to be doing the 1/4 on my radials from now on so I guess it doesn't matter. It always seems like the track is more slippery than the street, but it seems like it should be the opposite..

matt

Chris, I think with the exception of a few variables car weight, motor torque,I think you'll find that it's about the same.
I load up my converter to 2500,3rd amber I stab it converter flashes to my launch rpm 3600
18lbs in D/R's.

I think I know what your after here.Have you thought about changing to a different converter?
smile.gif

MY VELLE (http://www.prestage.com/Member+Pages/1201.aspx)

go into prestage beam, prepare car for launch, footbrake and bring rpm up to 1800rpm, and bump into stage beam. As soon as I see light from the third amber....GO!!

Reaction times typically in the .510-.550 range

Hoosier Slicks (Radial Sidewall) 30x10.5Rx15 on 9" rim

best 60' - see sig.

Chris.

light up the prestage bulb, hold the brake lightly, bring up the rpms a little.

Then bounce the brakes until i see the stage bulb go on, and the prestage go out.

Then i put my footdown harder on the brake, and bring my RPM's up to where i want them. (With the 6 cylinder i could get about 1300)

R/T's are typically .030-.040 (they dont use the .5 at etown or atco anymore).

Originally posted by MadMarv:
MC71454,

How's footbraking work with your setup?

matt Matt,

works very well, the thing with leaving at a pre-set rpm is the consistency factor. I have tried laying on the converter and bringing the rpms up, it just pre-loads my suspension and I spin the tires. No trans brake ever for me, but it would make the car quicker higher launch RPM with no suspension pre-load, also probably break more parts.

This is from last week:

http://www.boomspeed.com/mc71454/wrinkle2.jpg

1968 malibu.Load the drivetrain to 1200,walk out past the tree about 1 1/2 car lengths then floor it.
1:90 60" 12:44 TO 12:55@ 108.5/109.15
on Protrac StreetPro L 60's w/ mufflers.

Nice picture you should send it to Hoosier maybe they'll use it for advertising:) It's just perfect how the Hooosier is on top and bottom like that!

bump into pre stage clear motor foot on brake bump into stage t/brake on.. rpm up to 4500 on second amber apply giggle gas :D rpms up to 4800 then third amber GO!!! :D

see sig for times consistent as of last year with a .530 rt :cool:

oh yeah hoosier( just like tom !!! ) 26 X 10 @ 12.5 lbs + - .5 lbs http://www.geocities.com/igotta71@sbcglobal.net/launch2.jpg

69 Nova 3000 lbs, 4.11 8.2 10 bolt, 28x9 M/t
foot brake to 3000, flash to 5k
1.62 best, avg. 1.65-1.67
i lost .025 leaving slightly off idle
Mike

Chris,
Here is a couple of 4-speed techniques:
I take it up to 3700 RPM, and then on the last yellow, simultaneously dump the clutch and mash the gas pedal. My bests are in my sig.

My neighbor drives an AMX and does it a bit more drastic than me. He brings it up to 7200 RPM and dumps the clutch :eek: Here is what that looks like:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Epistuff/AMX.jpg

Cool info graemlins/thumbsup.gif and some awesome pics
Last time at the track,I saw alot of people launch off the foot brake,so I was just curious.
Steve,I'm not after another convertor.In fact,the only future mod I have in store is the 3.31's,and thats about it.

Originally posted by mr 4 speed:
In fact,the only future mod I have in store is the 3.31's,and thats about it. ....and a Z-bar, a pivot ball, another pedal to the left...... tongue.gif

Originally posted by Epistuff:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by mr 4 speed:
In fact,the only future mod I have in store is the 3.31's,and thats about it. ....and a Z-bar, a pivot ball, another pedal to the left...... tongue.gif </font>[/QUOTE]:D

Sorry chris ,just a thought. graemlins/clonk.gif BTW, last time out , what was your tire psi.with the new Hoosiers? The 3:31's will get you out alittle faster.

MY VELLE (http://www.prestage.com/Member+Pages/1201.aspx)

last time i had mine to the track it had a flat top 355 in it! bring the convertor up to about 1200 and floor it on the last yellow, flashes to about 4000rpms. 4.10 gears and mickey thompson sportsman pro 26x10.5's it did a best of a 1.76 60ft but usually 1.78-1.80 depending on the track conditions.

smile.gif Sweet!

1500 on drag radials,,,otherwise it will spin them, as high as I can on slicks usually around 2200,,,higher rpm better 60ft...been in the 1.71-1.73 range with slicks,,Hoosiers were much better and will be going back when these MT's are worn out...1.73-1.75 with drag radials,but they are new,they get better as they wear down.

I have always footbraked for whatever reason. It feels more fun even if it doesn't help. But for some reason I can only hold my car in place with the brakes at 1800rpm now, and my converter is about 3400 stall according to the shop. They said I really needed 4400 on the phone for max 1/4mi performance but I was too chicken to do it.
My problem is I have to get on the gas real slowly.. or always did. The car, even with my tiny little ET streets would blow sideways and I'd have to let off and get back on.
My other problem was the electronic kickdown. Sometimes when I let off to regain traction the elec kickdown would slam it into a lower gear again and scare the crap out of me.
This year I am going to unplug the electric kickdown at the track and maybe my less torquey motor will be easier to launch.
I find trying to leave on the street when doing mini like 1/3 throttle practice runs for 40 feet I spin the tires alot easier if I do not footbrake.
With footbreak I can get on it a little harder a little faster.
I'd love to get some 28 or 28 * 11 ET Drags on there and punch it off the line, but I'd need a practice run or two before doing that.
Anyone here know how roughly good drag analyzer pro? My friend has a copy and he says from what I tell him I should get 117-119mph runs.
Also-- for the guys running with a full gas tank-- I have had track officials pull me off to the side and say gas was spewing from the back of my car. But there is no obvious reason for this. Could it just be the cap cannot handle it? I examined the tank and there are no holes. I would hate to start a fire and light the track on fire and possibly end up dying myself. Any ideas here?
I would like to launch with a full tank of gas, I want full street trim to mean full street trim.. change nothing and see 120. (won't happen according to drag analzyer 3.2)

matt

Steve,I was running 20-21 psi
I turn my idle up to about 1000 rpms or so in gear,and on the last yellow,I just put the gas pedal to the floor like I don't like it :D
Leaving off the footbrake usually results in tire spin,but I haven't tried that yet with the Hoosiers..they bite alot more than the drag radials,so I might try a foot brrake launch next time out.

Keep us posted graemlins/beers.gif

MY VELLE (http://www.prestage.com/Member+Pages/1201.aspx)

My style is pretty simple.... Tell my driver to cut a good light and I'll buy him a beer. Works everytime.... :D

Do a good burnout(watch for smoke and listen till I hear the tires to start pulling the motor down). I have used the same technique on all my "tired" cars. Shallow stage then bring RPM until the car starts to rise (usally about 1500) last yellow hit it and hang on. My 70 has quick time pros (28x11.5)with the 454 in the car it 60' 1.63-1.65. The car now has 405 small block and a tight 2500 stall and goes 1.73-1.75.

Definition of a good burnout?

There is a clip of my car doing a good burn out at the very end of this Street Car Shootout video.

http://teamprickracing.com/RealStreet.wmv

Just don't understand how many of you guys can leave at the start of the third amber and not red light ???

My car is consistent at 1.80 sixty foot and I am very careful in staging the same. Have to leave in the middle of the third amber to cut a good light. Just a shade early from middle of amber and she goes red.

How can this be happening ???

10.50 x 28 slicks with 12.5 psi, 4.1 gears, leave at 1200 rpm, no spin, no bog, just goes, but hard as heck to cut a consistent good light in the middle of the amber.

Where am I going wrong ???

How can I get the car to react slower ??

Idle at 1200 (set in the pits using idle screw), foot barely contacting gas pedal. when I see the third amber I push the gas pedal down and go.

Agree...don't know if this technique generates the best ET and/or 60' time or not, but it's the most consistent for successful bracket racing. This is what works for me, anyways.

Just don't understand how many of you guys can leave at the start of the third amber and not red light ???

My car is consistent at 1.80 sixty foot and I am very careful in staging the same. Have to leave in the middle of the third amber to cut a good light. Just a shade early from middle of amber and she goes red.

How can this be happening ???

10.50 x 28 slicks with 12.5 psi, 4.1 gears, leave at 1200 rpm, no spin, no bog, just goes, but hard as heck to cut a consistent good light in the middle of the amber.

Where am I going wrong ???

How can I get the car to react slower ??

Does your track use the old style bulbs, or the new LED's? Also, lowering air pressure in the front tires will slow your reaction times (Makes the tire contact patch longer)

I tend to footbrake anywhere from 2000-2800 rpm. Once the lights flash (.400 Pro tree 90% of the time), I swap feet and go...WOT launch. I treat the radials just like I would true slicks. 275/60 M/T ET Street Radial, 3515 lbs race weight, 1.39 60' best so far.

Am seriously considering a Griner Pro Brake over the winter to try and improve reaction times with the .400 Pro tree.

10secbu -- I use the same tires and technique you do to launch and typically cut low 1.5 sixties and 11.0 to 11.teen @ 120 mph ETs. That's with my little SBC and 3540 lb camaro.

When bracket racing I increase the stage RPM to reduce reaction times. Not sure if it would help you to increase your launch RPM to cut a quicker light or not but it seems to work for me.

10secbu -- I use the same tires and technique you do to launch and typically cut low 1.5 sixties and 11.0 to 11.teen @ 120 mph ETs. That's with my little SBC and 3540 lb camaro.

When bracket racing I increase the stage RPM to reduce reaction times. Not sure if it would help you to increase your launch RPM to cut a quicker light or not but it seems to work for me.

A higher start line rpm won't help enough. Once I get to 2600-2800 rpm, the front end starts extending and I lose valuable front end travel for proper launch & traction. I simply cannot get enough start line rpm to make the chassis react quick enough for the .400 pro tree. Even deep staged and 3000 rpm, the best light I've gotten on the pro treet was a .530...not close to being competitive against .450-.480 lights. A t-brake, higher launch rpm, and shorter front tires are my only chance at quicker lights. I'm now working with tightening the front shock extension to quicken reaction times but must be very careful not to reduce front end travel as the car will then not transfer weight, nor will it hook on the little tire. With the shocks I have, you can easily tighten them so much that there won't be any suspension travel. As an example, out back I currently have the compression/bump set at 8 to 10 clicks (total of 24 clicks) and the back end of the car is nearly rock solid pushing it down by hand. The shocks also have a rebound adjustment as well, again, 24 clicks.

I think thats the only way to react to a .400 pro tree,,,gotta have a brake. I tried racing last year in a 12.00 index with a .500 pro tree, we couldnt deep stage and my best light was a .632, that was back with 1.7x 60ft times, now I'm at 1.5x but too fast to run the 12.00 index now :( I'd probably still be struggling to get a .59x light. That pro tree stuff isnt near as easy as it looks...can you say "anticipation" :D

Good thread!

Here's my technique, footbrake to 1600 rpm (any more would spin badly), release the brake between the second and third yellow and roll into the throttle. On a good pass I would be at full throttle in about 2 car lengths. I was also using Tom Baird's shock nut trick to get some "free" front end movement. Tires were worn 255-50-16 BFG Drag Radials. Bests are in my sig.

:)

This is what I do. Car idles at about 1500. Light up top bulb and put car in neutrual. Doing a quick check list of guages. Normally I wont put it in gear until the other guy puts his second bulb on, but that is not always the case. Once i put car in gear I pick up the rpm's to about 1900 and start bumping in. I try to stage as shallow as you can, just barely flickin the bottom prestage light. As soon as I see any hint of light comming from the last yellow I'm out of there. With an 8inch converter(4200) TH400 4:56 gears running 28X12.5 M/T streets my best 60 ft is a 1.58. Normally it's around 1.65's.

I prestage and then bring the rpm up to 1700. And then slowly bump in, and leave on the last yellow. For my car this will get me in the .010 range for a light. Of course I'm never all that consistent in the light dept.
If I try to leave higher, the car spins worse because the front end starts to rise before I leave. Others here have noted the same thing. Two things would help that.....better rear brakes or a looser converter.

This year I've run a lot on a .400 pro tree in a heads up class. Man, it's tough with a heavy foot brake car. They leave too slow. Best I've done is a .170, and that was by taking a big bite out of the start line, w/o turning off the top bulb. I'm not sure if we can deep stage...turn the top bulb off. I would try it, but don't want to find out the hard way.......
I suppose I should just ask huh?

Heads up is fun as long as you are in the hunt. I'm the only NA car participating...and as we have a new program, I'm sure the boost folks will be turning it up, and the nitrous folks will be spraying more. Might have to go back to the brackets! Ha!

Ron

I thought every tree has the ability to adjust the timing between lights and quite possibly that each track may be slightly different ? ? ?

I've only been down the 1/4 mile a few times, but I did manage to get a perfect pass once;

I cut a .500 light & ran my dial in @ 12.60

burn out box
pre-stage AND
wait for contender to Stage
Roll into lights shallow *
spool up to 2500(stall)
last yellow comes on floor it & pray for win :D
ZZ430 (crate engine)
28x12.5 ET Streets
Tuned Eaton 4:10

* I hate to wait on staged on the line while someone fiddles around prestaging. So I'll watch for the other guy to stage 1st and make him wait until I'm ready because the starter will drop the hammer when both cars are staged. Therefore giving you (mental) the advantage.

That being said I hope I never have to run against anyone that reads this or we may be sitting on the line at closing time :D

The tree uses LED lights.