i know about springs and stuff but what do i need in the front of the block? a cam button? torrington bearing?

In the front, you're going to need a button and either a reinforced timing cover or a stiff cast aluminum cover. Many aluminum water pumps have a boss for a bolt that contacts the stock cover to brace it.

Since all roller cams are ground with virtually no lobe taper, they will try to walk toward the front of the motor. This beats up the timing chain, distributor, and makes the timing go nuts.
You must have some way to control this.

Set the end play between the cam button and the cover at .002-.006 and you'll be fine.

On the newer blocks that had a factory installed roller, they have a retainer plate that eliminates the need for a button or cam stop.

Randy

One thing you're gonna like you don't have to break the cam in. I have run rollers on the street in my last two restorations. Just make sure you use good valve train components. I have had good luck with Crane.

so i only need a good cover and a button? what do you think about the rollerized button vs. regular solid

I perfer the solid type button, nylon or a viton( ? ) tipped alum. I have had to many of the roller type come apart.
Duane

Be prepared to bang on the cover or grind on the button to get the endplay right. A stiff cover Is an absolute must because those cheapies will flex.

The retainer on the new blocks will bolt right into your block and all BBC blocks for that matter..I would strongly consider using it.

I will never put any of the rollerized components in my motors, it is just another thing that could go wrong. Hardened needle bearings can wreak havoc.

In some areas it is necessary - like the lifters, but a bronze block protector and a solid cam button are two ares where rollerized parts are not necessay but are often put in.

Here is a pic of the block protector among the Gen VI timing chain.

http://www.boomspeed.com/mc71454/tgearGM.jpg