OK, so I bought this air compressor a few months back. It's a MAC 5 HP single stage 220v, 10.6 cfm @ 90 psi, 44 gallon tank. I've been scratching my head trying to figure it out. I think something is missing. There is no pressure gauge and no visible place to hook up the hose. It looks like it has a pressure switch, which is where I would assume the hose would attach, but no visible means of adjusting the pressure. Am I right to assume it should be set up similar to my pancake Porter Cable with a primary and secondary regulator or am I just being a retard? I've got some photos and I found this link to a schematic:

http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/500b44v-500b60v-500bl60v-500be60v-500blf44v-500bpc60v-p-1693.html?sort=1a&page=1

http://members.aol.com/andy265245/comp1.jpg

http://members.aol.com/andy265245/comp2.jpg

http://members.aol.com/andy265245/comp3.jpg


any idears?

In your middle picture, what's the thing on the side of the tank under the motor?

the hose outlet is on the side.

In your middle picture, what's the thing on the side of the tank under the motor?

It's an air outlet, with a valve.

the hose outlet is on the side.

So that's what Zeke was referring to. But shouldn't there be a pressure regulator between the tank and the hose connection? :confused: Otherwise the pressure at the hose is just whatever pressure is in the tank, unless the pressure switch is supposed to shut the compressor off when the pressure in the tank reaches the desired outlet pressure. I would think there would be a primary regulator controlling pressure in the tank and a secondary regulator to set pressure at the hose, otherwise the compressor would constantly cycle on and off.

Andy, The pressure regulator for the compressor is under the plastic cover, the same place your wiring hooks up. These are factory preset. You can install a tee on the outlet fitting on the side of the tank and put a pressure gauge between the tank and hose to read tank pressure. You have to use a separate regulator to adjust line pressure. I run a short piece of hose from the tank, the fitting on the side, and mount the regulator to the wall then run my hose from there. Hope this helps.
John

The Compressor will just fill up to what ever the switch is set for. You can't not adjust what pressure the switch will trip at. You will need to purchase a regulator if you want to regulate the pressure. :beers:

EDIT: Dang, John beat me. He also explains stuff a little better than I can.. :yes:

-Todd

Thanks guys. Bear with me while I ask more :clonk: questions.

So if I put something like this on the side

http://cgi.ebay.com/Victor-L700-Gas-Pressure-Regulator-L700D-L-700-D-New_W0QQitemZ290125624089QQihZ019QQcategoryZ67071Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

would that work? Or do I need some kind of filter between the tank and the reg?

Andy,

Something like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1118) would be what you need.

You hook up the output of the tank to the inlet of the filter/regulator unit, then you can hook up you're quick connect to the outlet.

That is a decent unit. I have one and haven't had a single moisture problem.

-Todd

Andy,

Something like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1118) would be what you need.

You hook up the output of the tank to the inlet of the filter/regulator unit, then you can hook up you're quick connect to the outlet.

That is a decent unit. I have one and haven't had a single moisture problem.

-Todd

AH! That's it. Thanks Todd. I was looking at this one just as you posted that:

https://www.mactools.com/portal/site/mactools/menuitem.6c9db894a3743751f735c110f070c3a0/?vgnextoid=973b86c81dcac010VgnVCM100000104d840aRCR D&vgnextfmt=default

we have a Harbor Crap here in town. I'll run over at lunch and check it out.

If you don't buy it, atleast it will give you a good idea of how it works :thumbsup:

Most people have tons of problems with Harbor Fragile tools & equipment, I am only basing this off my experience. We all know the products from HF are hit or miss, so tread lightly with the stuff from them. If worst comes to worse, it's only $25. :yes:


-Todd

Andy looks like Todd has got you on the right path.:yes: I use one similar to the one you posted for my main regulator, then I use a water trap at each machine and drop hose in the shop. I have over 300 ft of line total ran across the ceiling of the shop and you would be surprised to see how much condensation comes out of that. Of course my shop stays a "balmy" 70 degrees year round.:).
John

Sharpe Model 880A Air Control Unit

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Just giving you some more suggestions. This one will handle a 175 lbs, or most any two stage compressor if you ever go bigger.

A couple of things, it has a stone inside of it for a filter, and its pure white so you can take it apart and look at it, but they last a long time.

You will never wear out this unit, they last forever, and you can clean it and put it back together without having problems with the threads, they are a very good unit.

Anyway, try and get as much pipe out of the compressor as you can before it goes into this, lets the hot air cool down so you can extract the condensation in your lines.

Rob

I bought the TP tools kit for $100 and think it's money well spent. I love the auto drain feature and I never have to screw around with it.

http://www.tptools.com/eccStoreImages/product_images/Images/3411-03_L.jpg

Whats inside of it, ssboy?

So you never have to touch it to drain it?

So you never have to touch it to drain it?
Here is the product description:

http://www.tptools.com/p/69,113_1and2-Deluxe-Water-Separator.html

So you never have to touch it to drain it?

BINGO!!!!

Internal automatic drain operates when liquids have accumulated in the filter bowl and an air drop from cycling a tool has occurred. This cycling cause a momentary pressure drop which triggers the automatic drain. The drain is also activated whenever the air supply is shut down and exhausted.

Can't remember the last time I had any water coming out of my lines. Super Dry now!!

Heres my concern about an automatic drain.


It was two years ago, a sanborn 5hp two stage, about an $800 compressor. When I got done for the day I turned the little wing nuts to drain the filters, and after they drained, I tightened the wing nuts up.

I noticed my finger tips felt a little slippery, did the sniff test, and she was blowing oil, something let loose, if I hadn't drained those filters every day, I would have had about 150 feet of 3/4 black pipe loaded up with oil.

I put a valve on the bottom of the compressor, I can push with my foot, and I give it a quick shot, just to get the water out, but always empty the air out of the filters.

This sandborn was my second two stage compressor, it only lasted two years, the black max ( sams special ) lasted ten years, now I have a porter cable, another $800 unit.

I know, I should have bought a $1500 one to start with, but I'm a slow learner.

The other thing is what type of gasket or Oring those type filters have.
If it has the rubber Oring that slides about a half inch down the side of it, I have had problems with those.

I eventually took it out and went to the sharpe, easier to take apart and clean.

TP tools have good stuff, and they understand the program on sandblasting, and if you can keep the water out of a sand blast pot, then painting is secondary.

I reference there website quite a bit about how to run airlines, but I may be wrong, but I would bet that automatic drain type filter has that Oring in it, thats why I wanted to know more about it.

It sounds like I'm a sales rep for sharpe, but if something works as good as these do, then I'll stick with it.

That was the reason for all the questions, I know I sounded like a jerk, sorry about that.

I probably have spent as much time researching and changing my air lines, as I have on my car. But airlines can be run without an expensive air dryer if a guy plans it out.

Air lines are not a maintenance free setup, they need to be drained at the end of the day, and you need to pay attention to whats coming out of those filters, with the price of paint and primers.

I'll shut up now.:)

Rob

Changed my mind, heres some more.

Heres how it works with the setup I have, yeah I know what you're thinking, my, I, me, I,.

At the end of about 60 feet of 3/4'' black pipe, there is an sharpe F88 filter then another F88 filter then a sharpe 880A filter/ regulator pressure gauge.

Then probably another 60 feet and into another sharpe 880A filter/regulator pressure gauge.

So we essentially have four filters, and inside each one has a white stone type filter.

When I clean them, which doesn't happen until I get ready to paint a fender or body or something that has to look really good, so thats once a year maybe.

The first filter will usually look pretty dark colored, the second a little dark colored, and the third is usually almost white, then the fourth and last filter is pure white, so I only have to replace a couple of them.

You can put a lip lock:) on that stone filter and if its discolored, you won't be able to blow through it, like a new white one, and it will make you wonder how air could get through the discolored one.

Rob