Here are the specs on the car I’m rebuilding to run mid 10’s. The car was raced in the early to mid 90's then sat until this summer. I hope to run superstreet w/ a throttle stop.

I’m a little worried about hooking up with the 10” slicks but I’d like to run it this way before I commit to tubbing the car for wider tires. From what I’ve been able to read it should work. What do you guy's think???

1967 Chevelle 3350# with driver
460C.I. BBC 4 bolt mains ARP fasteners throughout
Chevy Steel crank & steel "dot" rods 7/16" bolts
Merlin cast iron heads with rectangular ports 320cc 2.300 intake & 1.880 exhaust Valves
lightly ported ( basically cleaned up)
Erson cast alum roller rockers 1.7:1 ratio, 3/8" push rods, Moroso stud girdle

The pistons are Manley .030 454 with stock length rods ( 6.135 ) and 4.000 stroke the compression is 13:1 w/ 114 cc cylinder heads. Merlin heads are 119CC so actual compression will be more like 12.5:1 The dome volume is 49cc.

Intake will be Victor
Carb is 1050 Holley 4500 series
Lemons headers ( will follow their direction for size and length ) probably 2"
Will run a throttle stop to run super street 10.9 index ( once I get there !! )
turbo 400 trans w/ trans brake , TCI reverse pattern valve body, heavy duty rebuild for drag use.
4800 stall converter

12 bolt rear diff. w/ spool and 4.56 gears coil spring w/ air bags Morrison control bars
10 x 29 slicks

I'm freshening up the motor w/ a new roller cam by Erson:
R-290-3 grind 731/697 lift 264/272 @ 050 108 LC

I've got the trans and diff. completed.Starting to reassemble chassis. We have checked out the engine components and are ready to assemble. Still evaluating the cam and torque converter. Thinking about a soft hit converter to help offset the 10" slicks but I'm worried it may give too much up on the top end.Suggestions and/or critiques on entire setuo will be appreciated.

Look's like you've done your home work. If it's going to be alcohol you might need a certified chassis (I.E. 9's are not out of the question).

how did you get a 67 BB Chevelle to 3350 with you in it? The engine should make a ton of power if you can get it all to the ground.

Exactly , Do you know of any tricks that I can incorporate to hook it up. I have Lakewood shocks up front and removed the sway bar. As for the weight. It has a glass hood & bumpers. Interior is stripped, no inner fenderwells, alum. radiator, light drag wheels and tires etc. I look for every pound. even using it for an excuse to drop a few #'s off the driver. Can't afford beer now anyway with this habit!!

Got a question on that cam, TWC. How come the exhaust lift is quite a bit less than the intake lift? My comp roller is the same thing. Does the exhaust only need a lot more duration to do its job?

Reading David Vizard, it looks like the exhaust responds much more to duration than to lift. I suspect that it has to due with maintaining velocity. High lift would slow the gases down. Probably why engine usually makes more power with higher ratio rockers on the intakes only. Anyway, my Comp drag racing cam has less exhaust lift with more exh duration, too.

Cheat!!!! :D

all i know it sounds like your going to out run my combo...........lol you got alittle more carb tade more stall and a few more degrees on cam and way bigger heads then me....lol....i cant help ya lol but im sure you will have fun with it......im fighting traction right now with my set up and i knew i would since the rear is stock with just home made traction bars with some stiff shocks, and a total stock front end ..........it pretty tuff just to get it from loading and unloading......ive tried my 28.5X10.5 mt and my 29.5 x 9 mt slicks.....they are about the same lol neither one hooks well..........lol

i have alot of home work to do and get my car stiffen alittle more and get that front end stable so it lowers slowly other then bouncing around on the line.......im sure i can et it to hook with one of those sets of slicks........

TWC... A few comments about your combo...
First on my next rebuild I will be changing to a 6.385" rod (.250" longer), for a little more horsepower on the top end, especially with a 4800 converter, all your power will be in the upper rpm band
A 4.56 gear with a 29" tire on that combo may be a little steep. Big blocks like to have a little load and that combo I think is capable of 130mph which would bring your final rpm to around 7800-8200 including converter slippage, I would recomend either a 4.33 of a 4.11

heres what I am running

454 +.030"
steel crank
6.135" rods h-beam
11:1 compression Ross pistons
Dart aluminum heads 310cc rect. port
solid roller cam .660in .666ex
dur @ .050" 254in 260ex
merlin single plane intake
1050 dominator carb 8896-1model
4000 stall...leaving the line on a foot brake at 1800rpm
4.33 gear with spool
th400 manual reverse valve body

Best 60' 1.46
Best 1/8 mile
6.58 @ 103.05
Best 1/4 mile
10.64 @ 125.85 (6.77 1/8 mile)

So assuming the 1/8 to 1/4 mile ratio on the 10.64 pass, the 6.58 1/8 mile pass could have been as low as 10.34

We are going easy on the tune and I am still refining the launch, we think that this combo with good launches and an agressive tune can go 10.10s @ 128 BTW my car weighs in at approx. 3500# with me in it.

FYI...suspension
front
moroso trick springs up front
koni spa1 shocks set at middle
poly bushings
alignment 0° toe in, 0° camber, and maximum caster

rear
air bags in both sides with 20# in right, and 0 in left
lakewood no-hop bars
poly bushings
stock springs
30x10.5Rx15 Hoosier Slicks (Radial Sidewall)...I will be going to a bias tire when these are worn out because of the inconsistency.

Next season...remove air bags and install a custom antiroll bar to get the car to launch straight, remove power steering unit for flaming river manual unit ~ 35# weight saving, aluminum radiator.

Thanks guys. I'm like everyone elese when assembling a car like this, you start to second guess what you're doing . It's a big investment in time, energy and $$ and we all want to be as close as possible with our set up. Mike , thanks for the gear suggestion. My gut told me I might be a little over geared but that was what was in her when I bought it so I thought I'd start there. Funny thing is it came with an extra set of 5.56:1 gears!!! I don't want to spin it over 7500 so I'll need to keep an eye on it. As for the cam question I think the greater duration is needed to make up for the lower flow numbers on the exhaust side so it takes longer for the air to leave.
Anyway thanks,

No problem...

Just remember that your motor ill be climbing rpm really fast. To give you an example...I have a 7200 rpm rev limiter chip in my chevelle. I have a 6400 rpm shift light chip. In first to second gear shift if I am not expecting the shift light, by the time I shift the car it has all ready hit the rev limiter so keep that in mind. Those 5.56 may be good for 1/8 mile you will have to do the math on 1/8 mile times.