I have a 68 SS 396 and I want to replace both the upper and lower rear control arms. They have seen better days, and they need to be done. The control arms will be purchased through CPP, my first question is do I need any other parts. The control arms have the bushings in them, so that is done, I would just like to make sure I have all the parts.

My second question is wha tis the best proceedure for removing the lower and upper arms.

Thanks
HovsSS

Arms, bushings, and bolts is all there is to it. Unless you have a sway bar then maybe some sway bar shims to make it fit with the new arms.

Not sure of the best way to do it. When I replaced my arms I was also replacing the rear end so I pulled it all out as a unit then put the new arms on the car and attached the rear end. It was tough manhandling the rear end around to get holes lines up. But it was nice and easy getting upper bushing in while it was out of the car.

If you can get up there to work, maybe just do one arm at a time to keep the rear lined up. Disconnect the shocks and pull the springs out and then pick an arm.

Tim.

The most important thing is to do one side at a time so the rear end doesn't tilt forward and get in a bind.

I havn't looked yet, but do the upper control arms just bolt in to the top of the axle, or are there bushings on top of the axle as well. Would anyone have some sort of pic they could show me. If so, you can send it to me at drhovey@sbcglobal.net

Thanks

If I remember correctly the uppers bolt solid, but my memory doesn't always serve me correctly.

Here you go, pictures and everthing.

http://www.leverfamilysite.com/images/PDF_Files/Microsoft%20Word%20-%20Rear%20End%20removal%20Article.pdf

One side at a time works best. I did mine in about 3 hours, 1 1/2 per side. Did not replace the bushings in rear end, decided they would work ok. Hardest part was loosening 30 year old bolts. Hose em down good with some penetrating oil and use air tools if you can. I did mine in my apartment parking lot so had no air available. Use jack stands on each side and a floor jack under rear end. Once you remove the shock the rearend will be easily moved up or down and lets you get the spring out without a compressor. Then get the arms out and replace with new ones. Reccomend new bolts and locknuts be used also. Re-attach shock and move to the other side. Definitely have a friend or someone there to help as getting the shock to line up properly on the final side will reqiure a little assistance . Also good in case something happens. Fairly simple job, take your time, don't force anything. As long as you are not using adjustable arms, should go smoothly.
Good luck!

IThe control arms will be purchased through CPP.I strongly urge you to consider arms with another bushing material or design.

There have been numerous topics posted about why NOT to use poly bushings in the rear suspension of a Chevelle. Theirs are not poly, but appear to be some type of delrin (hard plastic) bearing material, which will bind even worse in the triangulated 4-link style rear suspension of a Chevelle.

That is an excellent bushing material for the FRONT suspension, but worthless in the rear, especially in the upper arms.

Stock arms with rubber bushings (especially in the uppers) will perform better and ride smoother. If you really want aftermarket arms, look at Edelbrock's adjustable uppers with Johnny Joints in them :cool: