was on this last week regarding finding a battery drain that I haven't done yet. so I charged battery last night and drove a lot today. Put the trickle back on and it read that it was down to only about 20%. Shouldn't it recharge when I'm driving because of the alternator?..sorry, new guy on this stuff..Thanks!

Have your battery and alternater tested. Yes your battery should charge while running.

Old batteries will have build up on the plates, which keeps the alternator from charging it.
I installed a cs130 and had problems with the battery not charging. Took the battery to autozone they would charge it would test good after the charge. I checked voltage on every connection and in different places in the wires and got good voltage at idle. Went back to Autozone explained the battery was bad got a new battery problem solved.

When or after you've tested your battery, do a hydrometer test of all the cells. Sometimes those testers at Autozone or where ever will test a battery say its OK. When in truth it has good Voltage coming out, but has a bad cell. And usuly shows symptoms of similar nature all the time, like low light at the end of a routine drive etc.

My experience has been that by not using a battery all winter while your car is in storage, it's life expectancy gets shortened. I'd be making it up if I told you why this happens. When I bought my first Chevelle, which was my first car worthy of storing winters, it needed a new battery. The guy I bought it from said not to buy an expensive battery because when they sit winters they only last a couple of years no matter how good of battery it is. I even tried draining one down with a light and recharging it several times one winter, and it didn't help.

I just replaced the battery in my Chevelle when I got it out this spring. Put the charger on it, got it charged up, started the car several times the first day moving it around, two days later, I go to start it, and nothing, battery dead. It'll appear to take a charge and work fine at first, but doesn't hold the charge.

Could be something in your charging system, but if your battery is more than two years old and the car has been stored winters, my bet is that you need a fresh battery.

Do you have a VoltMeter guage? If so, what does it read during normal running? It should read 14 volts when running, meaning your alternator is charging, and your voltage regulator is working. If you turn the key, but not start the car, it should read 12 volts.

I just had to replace my voltage regulator. The voltmeter pegged at 18v above idle, causing some funky things happening with the car.

No, you do not go by Volts when you check an altinator. Common mistake made by alot of people. What charges the battery Volts or amps? AMPS charge it. You'll either need a true battery/alt. tester machine, or a good Multimeter with Inductive amp clamp, and a load tester, very cheap items to come by.

Hook up amp clamp to negative battery wire, make sure arrow is going toward battery, (the flow of electricity) Put Multimeter on Milli Volts, (this will read the amps trust me) Next you'll need a battery load tester, Looks like a waffle iron coils in it will get hot. Hook the load tester to battery, put the car in neutral and gas it to a steady 2000 rpm. You may need a helper but engage the battery load tester,, you'll see the lights dim and everything loose power etc.

Let that happen for about 9 seconds, get your average reading on your meter, and that tells you, your amp output of the alt. Now if you have a 120amp output alt. Then you should be around 100 amps output and be OK, usually within 20% of the rated output is good, because you still are using juice in other areas of car, lights, coil, etc. If your output is like 60amp and your rated at 120 amp output, then its time for a new alt.

Again test your battery too, and dont forget the hydrometer test! Cover all 3 areas. And you'll know whats killin ur batt.

No, you do not go by Volts when you check an altinator. Common mistake made by alot of people. What charges the battery Volts or amps? AMPS charge it. You'll either need a true battery/alt. tester machine, or a good Multimeter with Inductive amp clamp, and a load tester, very cheap items to come by.

Hook up amp clamp to negative battery wire, make sure arrow is going toward battery, (the flow of electricity) Put Multimeter on Milli Volts, (this will read the amps trust me) Next you'll need a battery load tester, Looks like a waffle iron coils in it will get hot. Hook the load tester to battery, put the car in neutral and gas it to a steady 2000 rpm. You may need a helper but engage the battery load tester,, you'll see the lights dim and everything loose power etc.

Let that happen for about 9 seconds, get your average reading on your meter, and that tells you, your amp output of the alt. Now if you have a 120amp output alt. Then you should be around 100 amps output and be OK, usually within 20% of the rated output is good, because you still are using juice in other areas of car, lights, coil, etc. If your output is like 60amp and your rated at 120 amp output, then its time for a new alt.

Again test your battery too, and dont forget the hydrometer test! Cover all 3 areas. And you'll know whats killin ur batt.


LOL...OR you could save time and pull the alt and have it tested at your nearest parts store.....:yes: Then you will know if it is the alternator.

If your alternator is not charging, then you will running off of your battery and the voltmeter will read what it read when you turned the key without starting the car.

If it reads normal 14 volts when running, then the battery is not holding the charge.

Real simple.

On older cars taking the alt out is very simple, however add a really complex pully system / forced induction systems or work on late model cars, and pulling the alt out is not so simple. The test I wrote up is for a guy who has a a multi-meter , load tester and amp clamp (most meters come with one) as these 3 items are common in any garage. And they work on any car configuration. And take 5 minutes to do. Going off Volts is a recipe for failure.

On older cars taking the alt out is very simple.

I think we are talking about a 66 Chevelle here, so I think what I stated applies.

Also, using your gauges as a tool, and not a cool fixture in your dash, is why they were put there. It has become a lost art....

You are absolutely right about your "testing". However, most people don't have the time, or knowledge to use them. What I suggested is for the average car guy to use. And it works....:hurray: