Guys, I tried doing some searching with not much luck. I think we need to try and title our subject lines better.

I'm in the market for some new lifters. I ahve one that stays colapsed 80% of my driving time. very loud and annoying. I've tried many things, short of replacing just the one. But now, I'm game for getting it out of my motor.

Do I replace one, or all of them?

I"m not too sure what I have in there now? I believe they are the variable duration "fast bleeds" from Rhoads. (Makes it hard to replace just one!)

Which kind do you use?

My cam is 280/288 with .525/.550" of lift. I like my brake booster, and want to keep on using it. (sorry for the ealier typo)

Originally posted by BB_Mike:



My cam is 280/288 with .565/.550" of lift. I like my brake booster, and want to keep on using it. smile.gif Of course you do, you're not strong enough to push the brake pedal on a manual car.

Get yourself a set of quality lifters (crower comes to mind) and pop 'em in. Then break them in just as you would with a new cam.

Can you do that? I always thought a collapsed lifter would accelerate the wear on a lobe, and putting in a new one would just cause the new one to fail after a while.

NOTE: might be talking outta my a** on this one. I need verification!

Pull the lifters. If they all look like they have a good wear pattern the cam should also be fine. Throw in some new ones and break them in like a new cam. I'd use some GM EOS just to be on the safe side.

Steve

I guess I needed to clean my intake manifold anyways... :rolleyes:

Originally posted by BB_Mike:
I guess I needed to clean my intake manifold anyways... :rolleyes: You headed this way anytime soon?
I can have your intake cleaned and glassbeaded...will look like new again...24hr turn time. ;)

I would only replace the defective lifter or disassemble it, see what the problem is and repair it. The outer shell of that lifter is "worn in" to your cam and wouldn't cause a risk of lifter/lobe failure if you can keep it and replace an internal lifter part. Even if you have to buy a whole set of like lifters to replace the internals on the one, I think it would be worth it to avoid the risk of having to disassemble and clean your whole engine along with replacing the cam. As far as replacing all the lifters instead of one, that gives you 16 chances of failure versus one. Just my .02 worth.

I'm with Von..I'd pull the lifters,inspect them,and clean the internals of any suspicious ones as long as the wear surface on the "foot" looks good.

I had a collapsed lifter on my 454. I took the original out and cleaned it. It now works good as new. I was hesitant to put a new lifter on the broken-in lobe.

Mike just so your aware fast bleed lifters make tons of noise, I have some Rhoads on a XE274 and it sounds like a solid cam, louder then some.

Just want to make sure you don't go through a ton of work for nothing. :D

Steve

Steve,

Thanks for the info. I've always known these to be noisy. I used to adjusted my rocker arms once a month to try and keep the noise down. It's almost imberassing to have such a noisy valvetrain on a mild hydraulic cam. I'll start pulling the top end apart this week.

I'll post back if the problem stays away.

Ealier in the year, I'd used some Rislone (detergent stuff) directly down the pushrod on the noisy lifter. Things sounded awesome for a few thousand miles. now it's back, and back way too often.

As the oil get's hotter/thinner, the noise will go away more often than not.

Mike, i remember a few years ago you used the BBmike method to adjust your valves. (the only reason i remember this is at the time i thougt is funny.) is it possable you could have damaged something inside he lifter? maybe just overhauling the lifter as said above would be the first best fix. Dave

Mikeys making the big bucks now,he needs a solid roller,,,,make that car go fast :D

Originally posted by sheetmetal:
Mike, i remember a few years ago you used the BBmike method to adjust your valves. (the only reason i remember this is at the time i thougt is funny.) is it possable you could have damaged something inside he lifter? maybe just overhauling the lifter as said above would be the first best fix. Dave :D Yeah, I have my own ways. Even if I did over tighten a rocker arm, and bottom out a lifter, it should not damage the lifter. I would just open up the valve seat and leak. Something really important would have to just BREAK inside that lifter. I mean, those lifters take a lot of force to operate them. That and once they do bottom out, my valve springs aren't exactly sponges. ;)

Time will tell. I'll yank that entire bank out and see what jives.

Robert. I've come to the crossroads where I have to start making my car look better. Sad but true. I am in need of a paint job. I want to put nitrous on it as soon as possible. But having just bought a house, it's even harder to come home and look at bare walls! I'm rich, but not that rich. tongue.gif

Bare walls!! He, He!!!

I know, buy a BIG house and eat and sleep on the floor for a year or two..

Seen that before in some of the rich neighborhoods in town...

You aren't using sheets for curtains are you?? Just had to..

pdq67

number one thing with a bb is never ever rev it up past 1300 rpm upon starting it, oil hot or cold! it takes time for a bb to get oil to those lifters and if you rev it up in the first 90 seconds of running you will get a ticking noise from at least one lifter. number one fix is to drill a small hole in the galley plugs behind the timing chain, but don't rev it still,(except when breaking in a new cam of course)
i have found that the oil filter makes a big difference also, cold oil must be allowed to bypass the filter so don't plug the bypass.
i have run rhoads lifters in two sbs and love them but it does sound like a sewing machine under the hood.

Originally posted by mechcanic427:
number one thing with a bb is never ever rev it up past 1300 rpm upon starting it, oil hot or cold! That's understandable. Though, a few times, I have cranked it over, and only blimped the throttle to no more than 1000 RPM and still heard the tappity-tap-tap.

I've found what works best to make it go away is to wait until Temps reach 160 or so, then run it up to 5500RPM. Maybe it forced enough fluid in there (kind of like the old school "pump up at high RPM issue) to help it get back to doing it's job.

-and no, I don't use sheets for curtains. Have you seen how much sheets cost!?!? :eek: Thank goodness for Coleman. ;)