Headers for when mine go.. [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Headers for when mine go..


MadMarv
Jul 10th, 04, 9:31 PM
Since my car is up on jackstands, I have been able to get a better look at everything. One, its a shame how much a 9 year old resto can get beat up from just summer driving and mild drag racing under the car..
But the 2nd thing is my headers. I currently have 2" hooker super comps. On the drivers side header, the collector is starting to rust through the ceramic coating. On the passenger side header, there was one tube that always hung far below the others. It was flattened over the years and now really doesn't scrape-- but its rusting and the metal is going to go with one more good scrape or another hard season, and I have been putting alot of miles on the car this summer compared to usual, and will continue to if/when I ever get it back on the ground with the new converter (top two bellhousing bolts-- can't get them undone, among other things, but that is the major problem).
I figure I have two options. Repair the header when it fails. Or replace them.
I know I asked this a little while ago, but I never got a real definitive answer.
If I were to have to buy new headers, should I buy another set of 2" primaries, or buy a set of 1 3/4 headers and the flowmaster 4-2-1 things, have the collectors cut off the header and those welded on, and have them shipped out to jet-hot for coating.
I really don't know where the adviseable cutoff point is.
IMHO my 4000lb car has 120mph potential. Right now its doing 116.62, but I am hoping on the best end of the spectrum my new converter will add a couple mph (but it might not, or even lower it, who knows).
It made 565hp and 550ft-lbs on a conservative dyno running with my alternator and water pump being spun by the motor, and with _my_ full exhaust (not some dyno exhaust) on the car, so 2" hookers, x-pipe 3" mandrel bends with tailpipes and 20" case dynomax hemi super turbos.
The dyno runs all ended at 6200. The cam guy said there is no reason to run the car past that, but the power is flat from 6200-6500 on the chassis dyno then starts to decrease. So for all intents and purposes, say 6500 is the max useable operating RPM for the motor.
I will ask the advice of my cam guy, but I want to hear voices from the crowd too. Plus 1 3/4's would make a schooch easier to get at plugs, but I would lose that menacing look of 2" headers.

These headers are going to crap it either from rust at the collector or just bang a hole through one of the tubes on the pass side.
I would hate to switch headers and lose performance. So who votes for what.. off the shelf 2" primaries, coated, of some brand to be determined at a later date, or 1 3/4 bought uncoated, the flowmaster 4-2-1's (I think thats what they are called anyway), then coated with jet hot.
I also pulled up an old post saying not to use the 4-2-1/scavenger collectors with an x-pipe, because you will run into fittiment issues and they both try to accomplish the same thing. More fuel for the fire..

I have been searching for my old post too and just can't seem to dig it up. <grumble>
Thanks..

Matt

CDN SS
Jul 10th, 04, 11:37 PM
A guideline Chart that some equal length custom builders use shows if your rpm limit at 6500 and HP at 565 1 7/8" primary with 3 1/4" collectors is the " safe or Best Average size 3" collectors for more bottom end and 3 1/2 might increase top end .... according to their " horsepower/ Header& Collector Tube size relationships Chart 1 3/4" is good til about 500hp ..... my combo ended up with 2" primary and 3 1/4 collectors 590hp and 7300 limit FWIW

Remember key word here being " Guideline" and assuming you sizing for best open header track performance