: Cleaning A Bare Block
Chevy_love May 29th, 07, 3:56 PM Hey guys, my bud gave me a 4bolt 350 block, along with stock crank, pistons, and rods. He is into the big block stuff so he lost intrest in this little 350. The block he says was out of a 77 vette. But anyways it has ALOT of grease and grim on it and would like to know the best method to get this block completely clean for a build. I dont want to have to take it to a machine shop. Tell me some helpfull tips and the basics for cleaning all these parts to be reused. Thanks you guys
drums&cars May 29th, 07, 4:14 PM Lots o' Simple Green, some gun barrel brushes, and some air pressure will do it good.......depending on how gummed up the oil galleries are it's probably worth the piece o' mind to have it hot tanked.
Busted Knuckles May 29th, 07, 4:24 PM Load it in the back of a pickup, take it to a DIY carwash and get most of the crap off. Then spray it down with generic Easy Off oven cleaner. It shouldn't take more than about half a can. Put it in the sun and let it get good and warm before and after you spray it. It should come clean enough to tell if it's good, etc. You'll still want the front and back oil galley plugs removed, cam bearings knocked out, etc. for a good wash prior to assembly, there's too much you can't get to that will come out with a good machine shop cleaning. Good luck, hope it turns out well.
Chevy_love May 29th, 07, 5:17 PM Thanks guys What would be the best cleaner to use?
busterwivell May 29th, 07, 5:27 PM I just go to the 99 cent store and buy a case of oven cleaner (cuz I'm doin' this kinda stuff all the time).
Chevy_love May 29th, 07, 5:32 PM OK cool thanks for the tip everyone. Now i just need a stand so i can move it easily to get in the tight spots.
figbash May 29th, 07, 8:40 PM Take it to a shop and have it cleaned. You can't do as good a job as they can, especially on the inside where it really counts. You should also have it magna fluxed at the same time so you don't end up building your engine on a cracked block.
Tom
Chevy_love May 29th, 07, 10:46 PM Im not going to build this block so i dont want to spend anything on it. I just want to clean it as well as possible make sure there are no cracks and off it goes.
Busted Knuckles May 29th, 07, 10:59 PM That's probably what I'd do - get it clean enough for an experienced builder take a quick look at it, they generally have a few problem spots they look for that show up more often than others. Be sure to check for spun or overheated mains and cracks both in the lifter valley - parallel as well as across the crank centerline - and below the decks on the outside of the blocks which is a typical freeze crack-prone spot. Double check the bores to make sure there isn't a deep groove or something along those lines in it. Wait and have it cleaned at the machine shop before machining, don't spend the money until you need to, IMHO. Spray it with a good machine oil before you store it to keep rust away, don't use WD-40 since it evaporates too quickly. Don't bag it, too much chance of condensation...been there, done that.
Good luck.
BACK FROM THE DEAD May 30th, 07, 2:29 AM if you are going to rebuild it, then do it right, and get it bored and honed with some new cam bearings (and prob decked). while it's there, get it hot tanked.
pdq67 May 30th, 07, 7:44 AM Easy-Off Oven Cleaner is fine or a big purple jug of Castrol's Super Clean from Wally World!!
And like said, at the Car Wash!!
pdq67
PS., both will remove Chevy orange paint if you work at it!!!
SS_Dave May 30th, 07, 3:55 PM if you are going to rebuild it, then do it right, and get it bored and honed with some new cam bearings (and prob decked). while it's there, get it hot tanked.
This is excellent advice.
You have not stated if the engine is assembled or not.
If it is a bare block, this is an absolute necessity.
If it is a completly assembled, running engine, just clean it off good, and put it in.
pdq67 May 30th, 07, 8:15 PM Look, a good old-fashioned cleaning at the car wash along w/ a blow dry has worked more time's than most will believe!!
Been there, done that!!
Not the best in the world by no stretch, but for a beater street motor, a couple a $100's worth of parts and gaskets and a dingle-berry hone and Krylon overhaul and you are good to go!!
I've ran one for years and years this way!!
BUT it better have been running fine before the cheap "shade-tree" overhaul!!!!!! And do the dingle-berry hone before the car wash too...
pdq67
Chevy_love May 31st, 07, 9:03 PM Well it is a bare block completely disassembled like i stated in the begining. I dont plan on building this motor either. I am going to clean it up enough to inspect it for cracks. that way when i sell it like it is i dont tell them it doesnt have any cracks and then it does. Just need a decent clean. I thank you for the comments that i asked for and for the extra ones i guess. Some times people just kina forget what your real question was. I understand though it happens i guess. Well thanks guys ill clean it this weekend.
Busted Knuckles May 31st, 07, 9:51 PM One other thing to keep in mind - if you decide to sell it, you won't get the cost of the hot tank and magnaflux back out of it. As long as it's clean enough to crack check, it'll be good enough to store. I absolutely recommend a thorough cleaning including removal of galley plugs so you can run brushes thru 'em, but not until you're ready to have it machined. Sounds like you have the plan down pat.
pdq67 May 31st, 07, 10:03 PM Sound's like you've done this before so why ask now??
pdq67
kirkwoodken Jun 1st, 07, 2:14 AM Hot tank it. Paint will stick better and you won't be blowing caustic in your eyes. I've tried all methods mentioned. Hot tank is best, if you can still find one.
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