Hey guys, not sure where to stick this post, I guess it works here. I have a 1968 327 possibley bored out to 350. Alot of you guys here tell me its a good high tin strong block, I pulled it, good builder. Its Nothing fancy, just wondering what to ask for it.

69-74 70cc Heads
1405 Edelbrock Carb
Accel HEI Dist.
268 Comp Cam
Clevite Lifters
Flowtech/ Holley Shorty Headers
All pulleys, flexplate, belts
140 amp internal Alternator
New Starter, new fuel pump (stock type)

:eek:

Well, first, stop telling people its a 327 bored out to 350, people will walk away pretty quickly. A 327, at least a typical 327 cannot be bored out to a 350.

A 327 would be stroked to a 350. The 68 327 and 350 used the same block, different crank/pistons. Pretty simple to stroke a 327 to 350, pull the pan and check the crank casting and then check out what it is at www.mortec.com (http://www.mortec.com)

If it turns out to be a 350 crank, just sell it as a 350. Or call it a 327 block with 350 crank, but that might be confusing to a newbie, and newbies pay too much money for parts. . . .

If you want to know for sure if its a high-alloy block, you're gonna have to pull the timing cover off. This is what you're looking for:

010
020

Any other casting numbers don't mean anything. the 39700010 on the back of the block doesn't mean its a stronger block.

*EDIT* the old 302/327/350 blocks ARE better than the later 350 blocks. So the fact that it's older DOES make it stronger than the newer ones, but not stronger than the other blocks of the same era.

Hey thanks Enrique, I learned alot this week about castings and dates and stokes. Thats really good to know, especially when selling it. Mortec sure is a useful site too!

How about a price range smile.gif Id be happy with 700 bucks

I bet you would.

Haha, what? Is that too much? I could get that parting it out on ebay.

pt,
Bare blocks are available around my area for less than $100 for a 2 bolt, maybe $150 for a 4 bolt. And that is if they are in good condition.

Im not talking about the block, Im going to sell everything, top to bottom, all the parts, cam, lifters, dist HEI, everythings less than a year old. Thats good to know though, small bare blocks are usually pretty cheap.

I'd say if you can get $250, you're in good shape.

Nobody cares about the "high tin" drivel, or the "bore it to a 350" error. A block is a block. 327 and 350 blocks are the same bore, so you can't "bore" a 327 into a 350.

You might get more if you remove the 307 2-barrel heads and spare people the trouble of hauling them home and then throwing them away; plus, they'll be able to see what pistons they are, that much better.

Take off the starter, WP, carb, pulleys, headers, belts; and sell them (except for the belts) separately, if you don't want them. Keep in mind the starter will work on a big block. The long block, which is the only part even potentially worth anything at all, will still get whatever it will get, without that stuff.

Yep, the SBC accesories are still readily available at any junkyard across america.

But the 010/020 IS a selling point.

Oh yeah, has the block been decked? If not, did you run the numbers on the pad that's under/behind the alternator? It might just be an engine from an SS camaro or something? Could be worth something to some guy with a camaro that matches it. Especially if it just happens to be a 302 block, lol.

Hmm good question, I'll check when I get home. Numbers behind the Alternator huh... lets see...

makes my fresh 454 seem cheap at $1750...

There's a guy on Craigs that has an engine identical to yours....

http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/49514820.html

Heh, I got $1300 for my 327, but then again, it was a small journal block. And it was built pretty well. Would turn 7k in the water box in my old C/10 with 3.73 and a locker. ;) It's going into a '39 Chevy streetrod now. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

P nut...you may just want to hang on to it for somthing else. It isnt worth that much and you probably have 3 times more in it than you could get out of it. Just a thought.