Body's off, frame's sandblasted, floors are mostly repaired still have to fix underneath to hide the patch lines somewhat.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/SatMay12004.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/may23009.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/may23007.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/may23002.jpg

nice metal work

You'll probably want to weld up some of those holes on the firewall too.

Also,How long did it take you to blast the frame?

Nice work Chris! Keep the progress pics coming.

Some pretty nice work you're doing, looks really good:thumbsup:

Rob

:thumbsup: Looks Like Progress Is In The Works,looks Good So Far

You'll probably want to weld up some of those holes on the firewall too.

Also,How long did it take you to blast the frame?

A local guy did it for $225 and I think he said he charges $50 an hour so I figure a little over 4 hours. I'm getting a gallon of por 15 today which I can hopefully apply Sat. I really don't have the coin to sandblast the undercarriage. I think I am going to take a 5" grinder to the whole underneath and get it as clean as possible then por15 that as well. I have to replace the whole trunk floor so there really shouldn't be that much to clean up.

lookin real good! :thumbsup: and that clearing behind the velle in the first pic is just plain awesome!!

if undercoated wont be fun. if it has no undercoat. i would wire wheel it. because a grinder cant get in the places a wire wheel can :)

Looks great! One of these days I'll do a frame off too.


If you're a mouse come party in my AC box, all the cool mice are doing it.

I really like this quote, it made me laugh.:D

if undercoated wont be fun. if it has no undercoat. i would wire wheel it. because a grinder cant get in the places a wire wheel can :)

Wire wheel's a good idea. I'll probably use both. Most of the orig undercoating is gone. I hear Por15 sticks to about anything. Will it adhere to old undercoating in the tight spots if I can't get to those areas?

I wouldn't use POR on the frame. You would have been better off with a gallon of epoxy. I only used por on the inside of my door frame and firewall. I have been slowly moving away from POR and into epoxy based on mixed results I have seen. I doubt anything would adhere to old undercoating.

Time to get out the torch, scraper and a wire brush.... messy but worth it.

Looks like a nice piece of property you got there!

Looks like a nice piece of property you got there!
It's my parents place. Luckily I have my Dad's morton building at my disposal.

I wouldn't use POR on the frame. You would have been better off with a gallon of epoxy. I only used por on the inside of my door frame and firewall. I have been slowly moving away from POR and into epoxy based on mixed results I have seen. I doubt anything would adhere to old undercoating.

Time to get out the torch, scraper and a wire brush.... messy but worth it.

I really didn't want to hear that since I just bought a gallon of it. Why don't you recommend it on the frame?

Nice work!!!!

well, your'e doing it right. looks great. i am in the same stage with my 72-427. I did the same and bought a gallon of that expensive stuff. I painted my frame with it. I have heard both good and bad, but mostly good about it. I do know that alot of people advise to use a top coat over it because of it being uv sensitive. I think that is the main concern with it. discoloration possibly. but i have seen it is a never ending conversation and people have both good and bad things to say about it. possibly the prep or conditions with heat-humidity may be a cause for the negative comments. Good luck with your car , soon we will both be tearin up the streets. Chris

I used a large knotted cup styled wire wheel on my 4 1/2" Angle Grinder, similar to this (http://www.internationaltool.com/woodworking/tools/mil48521350.html), and it worked beautifully on the undercoating, granted the coating was no more than 1/4" thick, anywhere.

For the more intricate items, I used a smaller wire brush on my 90º Die Grinder, like this. (http://www.internationaltool.com/woodworking/tools/mil48521020.html)

For large flat areas, ie; the underside of the floors, these (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_port al&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=GS16X9ZLCDgs&PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_bgel=L5R89PM2KFbl) are amazing. They are almost as fast as sandblasting, with half the mess. You can find them at Wal-Mart for about $4 each, I believe. They are recommended for a really low RPM, however, I have had them on my 90º die grinder turning around 12,000rpm, and they were fine.

I've heard oven cleaner can help soften up the undercoating prior to using a wire wheel/brush.

-Todd

the wonders of oven cleaner, i used it on my 95 silverado that had some ugly pink pin stripes that were painted on, there was no harm done to the clearcoat under them

I used a large knotted cup styled wire wheel on my 4 1/2" Angle Grinder, similar to this (http://www.internationaltool.com/woodworking/tools/mil48521350.html), and it worked beautifully on the undercoating, granted the coating was no more than 1/4" thick, anywhere.

For the more intricate items, I used a smaller wire brush on my 90º Die Grinder, like this. (http://www.internationaltool.com/woodworking/tools/mil48521020.html)

For large flat areas, ie; the underside of the floors, these (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_port al&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=GS16X9ZLCDgs&PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_bgel=L5R89PM2KFbl) are amazing. They are almost as fast as sandblasting, with half the mess. You can find them at Wal-Mart for about $4 each, I believe. They are recommended for a really low RPM, however, I have had them on my 90º die grinder turning around 12,000rpm, and they were fine.

I've heard oven cleaner can help soften up the undercoating prior to using a wire wheel/brush.

-Todd

We use those little roloc scotch brite discs at work and they work wonders when you need it for certain applications. I hit some areas under my car this morning with a wire wheel on a cordless drill and the stuff is pretty thin and coming off like it's dirt so I think it should go pretty quick. Just gonna be dusty and messy. Thanks for the advice.
Chris

More updates-

Trunk before- extensive rot
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunk003.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunk009.jpg

Trunk pan removed- I opted to not go all the way forward to behind the rear seat. The metal up there was solid so saw no need to cut it out.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Trunkremoval002.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Trunkremoval007.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Trunkremoval003.jpg

Cut out and patched any rot in wheel wells. Probably should have relpaced the inner and outer wells, but being a rookie at this I didn't feel comfortable removing all the metal back there.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunk017.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunk020.jpg

More coming!

sweet jesus Chris did you pull that car out of a river?

Removed rear tail panel and tack welded a bar across the fenders to keep the gap. Whole trunk slides right in. (trunk slid in with panel in place but I don't think it would on a more solid car)
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunkjune23001.jpg

Cut access holes through the quarters so I could screw the side trunk panels to the new trunk floor (Dad's idea)
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunkjune23007.jpg

Trunk screwed in place. Tail panel won't fit in.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunkjune23016.jpg

Cut hole in quarter to slide infrom front (Dad's idea again)
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunkjune23017.jpg

Still wouldn't fit so we cut the backs off the quarters. Tail panel clmaped in place. Decklid shuts.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunkjune23019.jpg

Dad welding on his '41 Willys coupe. He is getting ready to send the frame out to have a newer frame custom made. Plan for now is to make it into a gasser with a hemi.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunkjune23010.jpg

My son and his new mohawk Mom finally let him get.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/trunkjune23015.jpg

Next on the schedule is to get the door hinges rebuilt so I can hang them and cut the quarters off.

Great work. I really like to see people tackle the rough ones. If not for your will to save that Chevelle, it would have been junk. You are doing a great job. Keep it up and thanks for posting the pictures.
Paul

How well did that Dynacorn rear trunk fit? I might need one.. :sad:

Anyways, very fine job you are doing. :thumbsup:

-Todd

How well did that Dynacorn rear trunk fit? I might need one.. :sad:

Anyways, very fine job you are doing. :thumbsup:

-Todd
A few smacks with a hammer in a some spots, other than that it fit fine. I'm sure each car will fit different.

sweet jesus Chris did you pull that car out of a river?
I didn't think the car looked that bad. Then again, I live in Northern Illinois. Honestly I don't know why the trunk was so bad. The frame was solid, I've seen worse floors, the wheel wells were decent, inner rockers and inner trunk sides were solid. If I was patient I am sure I could have found a more solid car, but how often do come across a local, red and white, SS, BB, 4 spd with white buckets?

Try the GREEN Roloc rubber disc on the small angle air grinder. They work fast and last 10x longer then scotchbrite discs. Great job on this will be beautiful when done.

Did you ever think of powdercoating the frame?

Thanks for the pics! Good to see you posting them all in one thread so that people can see the progression. :thumbsup:

Did you ever think of powdercoating the frame?

Yes I did. Probably will go that route next time.

Started repairs on the windshield frame today-

Cut out rotted areas-
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/windshieldframe001.jpg

Made some new pieces. Thought this shot was kinda cool of my old man. He offered to tig them, and I can't tig weld for sh!t yet so I took him up on it.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/windshieldframe008.jpg

I got impatient and mig'd the second piece. It warped the roof a liitle like I though it would even though I was trying to keep it cool with a wet rag.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/windshieldframe012.jpg

Here is shot of my Dad leading up some small rot where the w/s frame meets the cowl.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/windshieldframe017.jpg

That's it for now. I'm hoping things will progress faster as I get past this "here and there" bodywork.

Get rid of all the old undercoating. The end results will be much better that trying to paint over old undercoating. I spent several hours in 90+ degree heat removing old nasty undercoating in the wheelwells of my project. Started by heating it with a propane torch and scraping it off. Next used a wire wheel in a 4" angle grinder. Finished with rags and 3M adhesive remover. Fun,fun, fun. The rest of my underbody was in great shape. Spot sanded the rust. Cleaned, and painted with Eastwood rust encapsulator and Chassis black. The inside of the wheel wells I did with POR 15. I've seen truck bed coating in wheel wells and it looks good.

What a major project! You certainly have your hands full with this one... my Chevelle had far less rust than yours. My hat is off to ya, great work so far!

Rich

What a major project! You certainly have your hands full with this one... my Chevelle had far less rust than yours. My hat is off to ya, great work so far!

Rich
I don't know why some of you think this is such a major project. I have seen many cars saved that were in much worse condition than mine. Sh!t, I live in Northern IL., when I saw this car I thought it was in average condition for a vehicle 25 years of age. These threads are on the net for good for many new car hobbyists to view. If they trip upon this thread someday and see pics of my car followed up by - WOW! "What a major project" (coming from a TC member who has supposedly seen it all at one point or another), you are potentially scaring someone away from the salvage of what could be another saved Chevelle on the road. Who knows maybe you will steer them into the right direction and they'll go buy a fancy import.
I know my car is no cherry but I have always wanted a big block SS Chevelle and I bought what I could afford. Working on this car is enjoyment for me along with a good learning experience. Whatever chore I undergo on this car will make it all the more easier on my next project.
To those of you skeptical of taking on their own project- there is a line you can cross when choosing a car to save but mine is no where near it. To make it a little less overwhelming think of your car as a worn out faded puzzle and each piece has a bent corner. Now take one piece out of the box and start working on it. You will soon learn the only struggle is time, and if you're not in a hurry you can slowly fix each piece one at a time and sooner or later the puzzle will be complete, look new again, and all the pieces will fit. If I can do it anyone can. I wake up at 4:45 everyday, drive an hour to my Dad's house where the car is stationed, work on it for one hour and head to my job where I work from 7-5. Five hours a week and scrounging for pennies to buy my next part. I love it!

Sorry for the posting delay here are some update photos-
As you can see the 1/4's are on and the car is now epoxy primed. I completely stripped the roof due to a lot of surface rust and coated it with one step rust convertor by Mar-Hyde. Seems like it worked pretty good. Turned the whole roof a blackish purple and sealed it up nicely. I por 15'd the inside this morning which is why it is so shiny in the pic. When I get back from SEMA next week I will be taking the motor up to NVR race engines in Milwaukee to have the machine work done.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle/Aug102007003.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2801000-2801999/2801887_19_full.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle/primer008.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle/primer005.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle/primer2009.jpg

Wow! Thats purdy

Man I can't wait to get my car in epoxy. That looks awesome!:thumbsup:

Damn how long all that take you? Don't tell me a weekend either..... :rolleyes:

Damn how long all that take you? Don't tell me a weekend either..... :rolleyes:
Two weekends. ;)

Seriously, looks good. Wish I had that type of space to work on the 'Velle..

-Todd

I just epoxied it this weekend. Got the car in the spring and that's how far it's gotten to date.

oh my god that pretty fast. looks awesome! keep it up!

I'd make that much progress too if I had a big @ss garage like that. Working in a single stall is a pain in the arse.

One other queston. How did you hang the 1/4's? Did you have the frame on the body and then on the jack stands?

I'd make that much progress too if I had a big @ss garage like that. Working in a single stall is a pain in the arse.

One other queston. How did you hang the 1/4's? Did you have the frame on the body and then on the jack stands?

Yeah pretty much, at the time the trunk was cut out too so I kinda shoved some jacks in under the rear frame rails along with the other four because they seemed to hang down a little when not attached to the trunk floor.

Just a thought. I looking at the pictures of your car when you first bought it and noticed your going to build up the engine. You mention that your going to get it decked. Wouldnt that remove the #'s? If so that would be horrible.I know this is the body shop thread,but I figured I'd ask.

Just a thought. I looking at the pictures of your car when you first bought it and noticed your going to build up the engine. You mention that your going to get it decked. Wouldnt that remove the #'s? If so that would be horrible.I know this is the body shop thread,but I figured I'd ask.
It would - We're not decking it now!

First drop of paint hit my car last night, very exciting. My dad sprayed it for me and I couldn't wait to see it this morning. I have to tell you I wasn't sure about going with the Cranberry red, but it looks great. It's gonna be a while before we spray the entire car. We wanted to get the jambs done so we could hang the doors, so we could hang the fenders, so we could check the fitment of the Gmark hood.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle%2008/jambs007.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle%2008/jambs006.jpg

I really didn't want to hear that since I just bought a gallon of it. Why don't you recommend it on the frame?

I've nerver used the stuff, but I'm with the Epoxy vote. It is a two part system, meaning it has a catalyst, and in my opinion would be much stronger than something right out of the can.

That looks very exciting Chris! It's an awesome start; car looks straight!

Looks fantastic. Keep the progress reports coming. You have some serious skills.

Looks like a nice piece of property you got there!


Yeah, that's what I was looking at too! Must have a good ole John Deere for those acres.

It's my parents place. Luckily I have my Dad's morton building at my disposal.

What's a Morton building?

Nice work there! I am painting a 69 Chevelle that's been in a frame-off resto-mod for almost 5 years now.

I take it dad has some body work experience? What you're doing is way out there for a first timer.

Steve

What does this piece cost?


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Trunkremoval007.jpg

That looks like a nice piece.Sure beats the 3 piece trunk floor and used rear body panel i used on my car.

What's a Morton building?

Nice work there! I am painting a 69 Chevelle that's been in a frame-off resto-mod for almost 5 years now.

I take it dad has some body work experience? What you're doing is way out there for a first timer.

Steve
Morton is the company that built the building- They're a popular builder up here in IL.

I am not really a first timer, been around cars my whole life, this is just the first car I have dug this deep into. Yes -Dad was a bodyman for many years. He helped me big time with hanging the quarters.

What does this piece cost?




That looks like a nice piece.Sure beats the 3 piece trunk floor and used rear body panel i used on my car.
I think it was around $300 maybe, I don't quite remember. Sorry

Wow, that is some good progress!!! Great job!!!

Finally got some paint on the car. Dad and I did it in his shop. I was leary to do it,but with some guidance from my father and friend (both ex- body men), I sprayed the color myself. I asked Dad to do the clear though. The guy in the white suit is my Dad spraying the clear. I'm the one in the jens spraying in the first pic.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle%2008/paint017.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle%2008/paint008.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle%2008/paint014.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chevelle%2008/paint010.jpg

looking good!

You guys sure do like your Mohawks up there! ;)

Great job on the car! :thumbsup:

Pete- That made me laugh, thanks.

Got the motor back finally. We put the heads on this morning. I'll post some specs later.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/March%201%2008%20and%20later/019.jpg

Sealed Power L2240NF60 forged pistons, Lunati 60203 cam, balanced internals, rest of the stuff is done to perf. street app.

Should be a good running engine. :thumbsup: What's the final comp. ratio?

Should be a good running engine. :thumbsup: What's the final comp. ratio?
Ya know, my engine guy told me it was around 9.2:1 which was a little disheartening because I was hoping for at least 9.5-10. He told me that was about all I could get with those heads. Is there a compression calculator online I could double check?
The heads were surfaced and are the factory 6272292, with the domed pistons mentioned above, and fel-pro gaskets.

I found this link http://www.straightline-perf.com/crcalculator.html but it wants more info than I know.

I found this link http://www.straightline-perf.com/crcalculator.html but it wants more info than I know.Maybe we can help a bit. What info do you need?

The calculator wants the following: I will enter what I know.

1. Cylinder- 8
2. Bore Dia [in]- 402 .030 over
3. Stroke length[in]-factory
4. combustion chamber volume [cc]- heads are the factory 6272292 which, according to specs on the internet are 119cc
5. head gasket compressed thickness [in]- (fel pro)
6. head gasket bore dia [in]-??
7. Piston to deck clearance-?? heads were surfaced that's about it.

8.select one
dished or flat top pistons-
domed pistons- select these? Correct?

9. dish reliefs- leave at zero???

I come up with 8.39 c.r. Try these inputs:

1. Cylinder- 8
2. Bore Dia [in]- 402 .030 over 4.154
3. Stroke length[in]-factory 3.766
4. combustion chamber volume [cc]- heads are the factory 6272292 which, according to specs on the internet are 119cc
5. head gasket compressed thickness [in]- (fel pro) .039
6. head gasket bore dia [in]-?? 4.370
7. Piston to deck clearance-?? heads were surfaced that's about it. average is .025

8.select one
dished or flat top pistons-
domed pistons- select these? Correct? domed

9. dish reliefs- leave at zero??? 21.00 cc

Here's an update much overdo!
http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/June%2008%20and%20later/?action=view&current=072.flv

great work, very nice looking car!

Looks great, sounds great, very nice.:thumbsup:

Nice work,hope mine turns out that good?

That sounds really good! :thumbsup: It doesn't sound muddled like some of the other posted videos.

Does it have that snappy throttle response? What exhaust setup?

Hey real nice work!! Looking good. I was wondering if I could bother you with a question? I am about to install a tunnel hump into my 68 SS like I see you have done in your pics. What I don't know is how to cut the floor open underneath the hump? Size of hole? Round, square? How to finish the underside of the cut into the hump? Any pics or explanations of how you did yours would greatly be appreciated!!!

iceman46:thumbsup:

That sounds really good! :thumbsup: It doesn't sound muddled like some of the other posted videos.

Does it have that snappy throttle response? What exhaust setup?

It's a Heartthrob Exhaust. Good product at affordable cost IMO. I haven't revved on it too much yet.

Hey real nice work!! Looking good. I was wondering if I could bother you with a question? I am about to install a tunnel hump into my 68 SS like I see you have done in your pics. What I don't know is how to cut the floor open underneath the hump? Size of hole? Round, square? How to finish the underside of the cut into the hump? Any pics or explanations of how you did yours would greatly be appreciated!!!

iceman46:thumbsup:

Mine was a 4 spd already so I could match up the outline of the original. I just cut out most of what I knew had to go then layed the hump over the floor and trimmed off the rest minus a 1/2 overlap to weld to. Just make sure you get it located correctly or else you'll be hammering on it so the shifter don't hit.

Chris,

You must be a retired racer, I see you have the lead ballast holding down the floor section that was once used on someone's oval track car. I have more than my share left in my shop and they do come in handy once in a while. Now if I could just figure out what to do my my surface plate that takes up too much room and don't need any more.

Rich

Rich

Chris,

You must be a retired racer, I see you have the lead ballast holding down the floor section that was once used on someone's oval track car. I have more than my share left in my shop and they do come in handy once in a while. Now if I could just figure out what to do my my surface plate that takes up too much room and don't need any more.

Rich

Rich

Acute attn to detail you have there. I raced for about ten years starting with Vettes in the SCCA then moved to the local circle track circuit. Eventually got burnt out and wanted to concentrate on my family instead of chassis setups each week.

Car looks great man!! My 72 is booked to get media blasted next week, then I can start on it! Your pics just gave me so much motivation I can't wait to get started!

Looks good man, keep up the hard work!

:thumbsup: Very cool buildup. I lvoe looking at progress pics as projects move along, and yours are awesome from start to finish! :thumbsup:

i've had a couple sets of those heads abd they had 113 chambers.

I don't know why some of you think this is such a major project. I have seen many cars saved that were in much worse condition than mine. Sh!t, I live in Northern IL., when I saw this car I thought it was in average condition for a vehicle 25 years of age. These threads are on the net for good for many new car hobbyists to view. If they trip upon this thread someday and see pics of my car followed up by - WOW! "What a major project" (coming from a TC member who has supposedly seen it all at one point or another), you are potentially scaring someone away from the salvage of what could be another saved Chevelle on the road. Who knows maybe you will steer them into the right direction and they'll go buy a fancy import.
I know my car is no cherry but I have always wanted a big block SS Chevelle and I bought what I could afford. Working on this car is enjoyment for me along with a good learning experience. Whatever chore I undergo on this car will make it all the more easier on my next project.
To those of you skeptical of taking on their own project- there is a line you can cross when choosing a car to save but mine is no where near it. To make it a little less overwhelming think of your car as a worn out faded puzzle and each piece has a bent corner. Now take one piece out of the box and start working on it. You will soon learn the only struggle is time, and if you're not in a hurry you can slowly fix each piece one at a time and sooner or later the puzzle will be complete, look new again, and all the pieces will fit. If I can do it anyone can. I wake up at 4:45 everyday, drive an hour to my Dad's house where the car is stationed, work on it for one hour and head to my job where I work from 7-5. Five hours a week and scrounging for pennies to buy my next part. I love it!

Rock on! I bought my '68 from a guy in Danville, Il., and I lived about 45 minutes south of Chicago. That was 8 years ago... and the only thing that keeps me going is knowing that I'm SAVING this otherwise scrap Chevelle! And I definately know what it feels like to live part by part... Your trunk looks about the same as mine... I definately need a whole new frame, and I've already replaced the entire front clip. Prolly going to get new floorboards as well, or hopefully just patch them up. I had rodent nests in my dash, you name it.... and yet this all seems normal coming from the rust belt.

I live in Virginia right now, and I realize how much work I could have saved myself by buying a southern car. But at least I'll know that every inch of the car will be solid when I am done... because I basically have to repair every inch of that car!

I'll be keeping tabs on your project, for sure. Save me a spot in that Morton for when I'm back in town!

Crakarjax- Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear you haven't quit, many people lose motivation once they get deep into the car. Good luck with your project, and remember, the road traveled can be as fun as the destination.

Lookin good!

The easiest way I found to remove thicker coats of undercoating is with a heat gun, or Burns-O-matic torch, heat slightly, then scrape off. After you remove the thickest coat, mineral spirits breaks down undercoating real well.

Looking good, the car's come a lONG way in less then a year :thumbsup::beers: