Im presently working on my rearend. Im trying to restore it as original as possible. Down to every last bolt. Any tips ???? My car was built January 28th 1970 in Atlanta. 331 Posi. I cant tell how it was painted. Too much undercoationg ??? Did the factory paint these ??? If so did they paint it assembled or paint them and then assemble them ??? Do I paint over the bolts and gaskets or not. I would rather not.
This rearend is 100% original correct dates on Drums and correct wheel cylinders.
Does the original breather have a black cap or green cap. I also noticed the red posi tag is worded different than the aftermarket ones.
I have also been trying to source as much NOS parts as possible ??? Not sure I want to use 1970s rubber such as bushing and lines ?????

Thanks,
Jim

My 2 cents on bushings. I've been told you would want to go with the poly bushings. They can be had in the black color and help reduce wheel hop if you would ever want to give i little gas. Nobody will really ever see them under the car.

Does the original breather have a black cap or green cap.

The vent is clear. The cap is also clear.

see this auction.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120106581112

The black and green cap vents you see on eBay are not correct.

As far as paint goes, the rear diffs on these cars is where a restoration problems lies. IMO, They were natural from the factory. Most people will paint them chassis black. I would tape off the housing and paint the cover seperate. leaving the gasket to show as unpainted. Another option would be clearcoat, but that makes it shiney and still won't appear correct. It might be the best solution though as it's about as close as you can get to original.

For the most part the rear ends were painted black.There was 1 plant at least that left them natural.The paint however was very thin.

Looks like I better order another Breater. I bought a green cap breather yesterday.
I might be in luck. The undercoating could save my rear cover. Im hoping I can strip the undercoating from the cover and not glass bead it. If this doesnt work I will try to find a NOS cover I will definatly use a bare metal cover. "Without clear." If I keep oil on it it will never rust. I have ran bare unpainted race car chassis for years. I wash them weekly and oil them after each wash and they never rust. Oil Oil Oil.
I dont think they painted the drums Or backing plates either. I will paint the drums and backing plates. They are too hard to get too to oil.
My backing plates are pitted How original are Inline Tubes ????

Yeah,
ya gotta be careful about some of the parts seen on ebay that are described as NOS. Most, or should I say, a large portion of them are still available from the GM dealer today.

Are these covers a 100% correct replacement ????
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260074465671&rd=1&rd=1

Are these covers a 100% correct replacement ????
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260074465671&rd=1&rd=1

I wouldn't buy it.

Too expensive and prob isn't formed right.
Repro parts suck.