This is a another post update on my tunning efforts and the improvements I have made with my small block 350 .60 over.

Pat Kelly I mentioned in a previous post that my car MPH had increased due to rejetting the carburetor and going up in size, thanks to your advice, also I just ran the car at the track again this Friday and my previous best was 13.2 @ 103.3 MPH with a 60 ft best of 2.083. Well my question to you Pat or anyone else it that I decided to go up an addition jet size in the back to see if I run faster and here are the results.

My best time friday was 13.2 @ 106.2 MPH with a 60 foot time of 2.033. My question is that the jets seem to add more HP but still I can't get my 60 foot time better, I know I am suppose to stall my car to the stall speed but I have trouble doing so I run the car from idle at the time. The converter stalls at 2200 RPM and according to my Dyno the engine makes highest torque at 3000 RPM, do I need more stall?

My engine combo
350 bored .60 (9.251 CR)
CompCam 274 XE
Valve train CompCam 1.6 roller rockers
Edelbrock RPM Air_Gap
Demon 650 mechanical Secondaries
MSD Pro billet distributor
6AL ignition
Heads stock cast GM ported with 2.02
Gears 3.73 posi
Transmission 700r4 2200 stall

My guess is yes. Mine ran 13.0's at 103, but my 60' was down in the 1.85 range. I was running a 3.73 gear with a 26" tire. The tire size will make a difference also.

Mike I know she can run 13.0 flat and high 12's but I can't get the thing to hit the line hard, I will try to stall it to 2200 RPM next time. My tires and rims are 17 x 9.5 with Nitto's 555R they hook really good no spinning! There are other cars with similar MPH hitting 12.7 but their sixty foot time is 1.8 or better and they stall the car!

You probably do need a higher stall convertor. I'd say you are spining, even though you don't think so. At 106 mph you should be well into the 12's. When you launch, you don't want the suspension to extend. That is, you want it at rest. If the car lifts before you launch, you've used up the suspension travel and the car won't leave as hard (one of the big advantages of a transbrake). Try stalling the car and note the rpm the suspension starts to react. Then launch a couple hundred rpm under that. If your 60's are still high, you need some chassis work or better tires.

Originally posted by Spawn22:
Suspension Spartan tubular A Arms, 1.25 front sway bar, 1 inch rear sway bar
Brakes 12 inch camaro 1LE cross drilled slotted rotors
Spring hotckis front and back
Shocks KYB all around Your suspension is probably pretty tight (stiff) not allowing much weight transfer at all thus the weak 60'. Probably awesome in the corners though.

Rod

More stall would probably help some, but I definitely agree with Pat that you must be spinning them, with a 700R4's steep first gear and 3.73's, I don't see how you're not spinning. See if you can get someone to videotape your run, or at least watch for tire spin on your next outing.
Best of Luck!!

We do have it on video and there seems to be no spin I will stream it for you all to view. I will really work on stalling the car to see it that helps also going up one jet size in the front to continue my tunning efforts.

we have the same problem on my dads 57 chevy. Has zz4, 700R4 3.25 and 3.89 gears to choose from. Gets the same 60 ft with the 3.89's as he does with the 3.25's. He runs 28x11.5 ET streets at the track and can't get anything better then a 2.0 60ft with 100% no spin as well. The only thing we can figure out is because it's at its limits with a stock stall converter. Your probably borderline there as well.

I got my best 60' times leaving from an idle. When you stall the converter against the suspension you preload the suspension and decrease the benefits of weight transfer.

The whole suspension explaination does make sense because my car is geared more towards protouring than drag racing, but I still think I should be able to get into the 12's. This problem could very well be my inability to drive the car at the track, maybe someone else can get the car into the 12's with proper launch and techniques. I am still learning!

Don't try to stall the car to its stall speed, you won't be able to. Mine had a 3500 convertor in it, and I left the line at 2000 - 2500. Ive heard that if you leave at idle, your converter will actually flash higher, might be an idea, Good Luck.

I watch the video of my car at Test N Tune and sure enough I was spinning but the funny
things is that I was not spinning off the line but rather from first to second gear.
I am wondering because the 700r4 first gear is so low then its a gap to second and by
then the RPM's are in the power band from first gear. Any takes? I think I need to warm the
tires up just a little more but there is minumal spin according to the video.

i think its your suspension setup thats hurting you. from your description of the video it sounds like the chassis is unloading after the launch.

you might try Tom aka mc71454's shock nut trick. it will help front end rise and weight transfer. you might also think about removing that large front sway bar for the track days. another thing those hotchkis springs are great for handling, but they absolutely suck for weight transfer. if you are serious about going fast in a straight line even a stock set of front springs would work better than the hotchkis units.

Do any of you use 90/10 front drag shocks? (http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=020686;p=1)

you may have seen this, but here is the post where Tom explained the shock nut trick. please ignore the negative comments and try it, it works!!!