Okay, I know this is probably way out there, but I built this combo last year for my '70 Malibu, and was wondering if anyone had thoughts or estimates on what kind of HP/TQ numbers and/or 1/4 mile times I should be looking at. I was never able to hit the dynometer last year, and I would like to get a ballpark figure from someone who may have or may have had a similar setup in the past. Any and all info would be appreciated.
Thanks.

1970 Chevrolet Malibu Specifications:

Block: L-35 396 +.030, now 402c.i.
Heads: Stock L-35
Camshaft: Edelbrock Performer RPM
Pushrods: Crane chrome-moly
Bearings: Clevite 77
Pistons: Speed Pro forged
Rings: Hastings
Oil pump: Mellings high volume
Water Pump: Miloden high volume
Fuel pump: Edelbrock Performer
Carburetor: Edelbrock 750cfm
Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM
Air filter: K&N
Timing Chain: Cloyes double-roller
Exhaust: Dynomax Ceramic coated headers into 3in. X-pipe.
Mufflers: Flowmaster 3-chamber Delta Flow 50-series
Transmission: Muncie M-20 with Hurst Competition Plus shifter
Clutch: Centerforce Dual Friction
Rear: GM 12-bolt w/3.73 gears
Cooling: Modine 4 core radiator
Ignition: Mallory HEI
Rims: 15 inch Chevrolet Rallyes
Tires: BF Goodrich Radial T/A 245/60R15
Suspension: Polyurethane bushings with 1.5" front sway bar and 1" rear sway bar
Shocks: KYB

Sorry to post without an answer, but I just wanted to say that that's a real nice combo you've got going there. :D I noticed that you own a 01' Bullit too huh? Kick a$$! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

There has to be someone out there who has run something similar? :(

I talked to Edelbrock, but they have never tested the setup on a 402, only a 454.

Should run very nicely.Likely about 375-425 Hp.Low 13 to high 12 1/4's depending on launch hookup.

Thanks, I'm anxious to get on a dyno in the spring.

Speaking of launch, what would be an effective yet inexpensive way to reduce the wheelhop I am getting right now. I reused the original trailing arms from the 10-bolt when I swapped over to the 12-bolt. If I get boxed arms, will that help?

Wheel hop = frame end of rear LCAs is below rear end end of LCAs

Try some new rear springs, or maybe air bags in the springs you have now.

I've got new springs in there. I upgraded all the bushings to urethane, do you think its because everything is much stiffer?

The car seems to have a good stance. I used the G-Machine suspension package from Performance Suspension Components.

Any other thoughts out there?

Just an update, changed the gear ratio to 3.31, found it a bit more friendlier on the highway. :D

I forgot to add, does anyone know what are typical 1/4 mi. times between street tires and drag radials?

I have boxed lowers and still get wheelhop, I'm looking at getting traction bars to fix it

If your getting excessive wheehspin then wheelhop is a common by product in a coil spring Chevelle. Enough traction with better biting tires will probably cure the wheelhop. The stiff front end with the large sway bar is likely hindering the weight transfer thereby contributing to the wheel hop problem. Is the rear end extra high or do you have air bags? The suspension needs to have some travel and air bags hurt travel.

You say that you swapped your 7:73s for 3:31s, I was wondering how a M-20/3:73 combo worked off the line. I currently have a M-20 with 3:23s & was looking for a bit more torque off the line..

Also, how bad was it on the freeway with the 73s?? ( & do you have any interest in getting rid of them??)

Scott

IMHO and experience,you'll probably end up running high 13's